Chain Sharpening

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Bigg_Redd said:
Just out of curiosity - does your grinder grind the same direction (away from or into) on both sides?
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More then likely. I think all the newer ones are set up that way. The lawyers start telling companies how to produce their products, to protect the people from their own stupidity.
 
On my grinder, the chain stays in the same direction, the grinder head moves. So, 1/2 of the chain is sharpened into the cutter, and 1/2 is sharpened away from the cutter.

I sharpened a chain this morning, and dropped the rakers a little. I went and cut down 2 White pines. One was about 15" in Dia., the other about 12". The chain cut like butter, and it's still not dull.
 
Ounce the chain is set up in the grinder I just go by feel and sound and check the first 2 to see what the tooth looks like that is has the whole tooth been ground and shiny You only need to just touch the tooth you can feel when it's right. When the other side is done you may need to adjust the tooth stop
ether more or less this is because the angle of the stone has been changed closer or further away
it dozes make a difference this is why one tooth is longer or shorter. As for the rakers I just grind them down more than necessary yes the chain grabs some and when cutting brush saw needs to be revved up so it don't grab and pull in big wood it shines as long as you got the power by doing this you don't need to check them for several sharpings. After you've done100 or so you will be happy with your tool
just go easy and go by feel and sound and you'll get it.

Good luck whitepine2
 
That is to a certain extent what I do. I look at the cutter, and take off the least amount while still making the whole cutting surface shiny. The last chain I bought cam e out pretty good, I was happy with the results. Either way, at 7-9 bucks a sharpen around here, It isn't long before you save money. The sharpener cost me $104 shipped. It's probably already paid for itself, never mind the convenience of not having to go anywhere to have it done, and being able to do it as needed, right now.
 
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pen said:
It should just be kissing the cutter.
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Absolute ditto to that.

salecker said:
if it's blued already nothing you can do to put the temper back in the tooth
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Except keep cutting. If you have done this to the teeth, you have hardened them. Effectively, you should be able to cut longer without them dulling; however, you have made them hard enough that they now cannot be hand filed if you find yourself in need of a touch up in the field.

Most people who grind their chains have extra chains and just swap them out as they dull.

pen said:
(25 thousands I believe is standard) right?
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Pen, I just couldn't help it...... went and looked at my gage and it is 0.025" :)
 
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http://www.alanwadkinstoolstore.co....-in-1-easyfile-for-saw-chain-sharpening-p6733

Not trying to plug a store...but this sucker here from Stihl is probably one of the most time saving tools I have. You can't screw it up.

With this, I can make the chips fly. In fact, the chips are thick enough it makes my pants damp. And no, it's not bar oil either.

Before all I'd get was saw dust, a back that would sing like a song, and a wore out mouth from cussing so much.
 
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clr8ter said:
The 2 types of wheel I found were resinoid, and vitrified. Which one are you referring to?
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The pink ones that are most common are vitrified and they are hard.

The charcoal Silvey style are resonoid.

To answer the OP's original question about overheating cutters, how often are you profiling the wheel. Not only does profiling keep the shape correct, but it also exposes new grit so it cuts better and generates less heat.
 
To answer the OP's original question about overheating cutters, how often are you profiling the wheel. Not only does profiling keep the shape correct, but it also exposes new grit so it cuts better and generates less heat.
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Well, to date, I haven't. I suppose I should get with the program on that, too, huh? Although, when the wheel was brand new, it still burned cutters.
 
Here is one you can't screw up, and every user that owns one will testify that it will get a chain to razor sharp if you follow their video.

http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/
 
Here is one you can't screw up, and every user that owns one will testify that it will get a chain to razor sharp if you follow their video.
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So, do you own one? Looks interesting. I will say, though, that $124 seems a little steep. I watched the video on there site. I find it pretty amusing that companies always demo their product in ideal circumstances. On a clean bench, & brand new saw, bar & chain. Ok, now go get a firefighter's saw, throw it on the ground, and sharpen it, and show us the before & after results.
 
There are a few members who do (which is how I heard of it)......if it was 1/2 that price, I would have one in my bag of tricks. Search forums for it, you will find a few that mention it as their sharpening method.

If the price ever comes down, I will grab one.

BTW, it is about $20 cheaper at Baileys.......
 
Yeah, but did you notice it doesn't come with a cutter? ($25)
 
_CY_ said:
my Simington 450 and Silvey grinds in both directions to control which side burr ends up.

DSC04002.jpg
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Very nice.

Which Silvey do you have?


I am dealing on a Silvey 510 right now.
 
Yeah, apparently the cutter is solid carbide. It'll chip, but I can only imagine it doing so if you abuse it. You're not even using a motor to turn it.
 
I didn't notice the absence of a cutter.

If it were half of their asking price, I would still order one.

That solid carbide cutter would sharpen a chain that had been overheated on a grinder (something no file will do).

But at that price, I'll stick to what I've got.
 
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Apparently, my chain sharpening is still hit or miss. I sharpened 3 chains last week. The 1st, I used to cut down, delimb and buck 2 white pine trees, 12 & 16" dia. Then with that same chain, I went to my buddies house, and cut down & cut up several smaller maples, cherries and oaks. I changed it when it stopped cutting when I got into the ground a little. The next chain didn't even cut at ALL. I spent 5 min on it, and switched it out for the 3rd, which finished that job, (a couple slightly larger oaks) and is still on the saw. Seems like lowing the rakers helps a lot, though.
 
I will preach this until I am blue.......you have to at least check the rakers (depth gages) on a regular basis. I put the gage on mine every time I file the teeth. If they stick up, they get filed too.

I can sharpen every tooth on the saw into a razor blade, if the depth gage in front of it is as tall as the tooth, all that sharpening is for nothing.


If I ever get a really powerful saw (90+ cc) I may take those bad boys down 40 or 50 thousandths (the norm is 25) and slap a short bar on it........I'll bet that would be an experience.

I picture my co-workers Stihl 088 Magnum with a 20" bar and the depth gages cut 50 thousandths below tooth height.......hang on !!!!!!!!!
 
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smokedragon said:
I will preach this until I am blue.......you have to at least check the rakers (depth gages) on a regular basis. I put the gage on mine every time I file the teeth. If they stick up, they get filed too.


If I ever get a really powerful saw (90+ cc) I may take those bad boys down 40 or 50 thousandths (the norm is 25) and slap a short bar on it........I'll bet that would be an experience.

I picture my co-workers Stihl 088 Magnum with a 20" bar and the depth gages cut 50 thousandths below tooth height.......hang on !!!!!!!!!
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Now That's what I was talking about I have a 288 with 20" and with the rackers ground she will cut better than soft butter. As long as you have power ""LOOK OUT MARY SOUZA"" big differebce but I would not advise for someone un-experienced or with a homeowners saw ya need power and it will grab
when starting the cut and cutting brush saw need to be reved up
 
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clr8ter said:
Ahh, I have a friend that has that. He's got a thing for large old saws. Recently, he bought a BIG Husky saw at a junkyard, not running but with good compression, no bar, no chain. He cleaned it up cosmetically, and it's currently sitting on E-Bay at $305. He paid the junkyard 20 bucks for it.
Kennyp, sounds like that filer is just about right for you....
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Bro, Sorry for the delay, I have to like that post and your right, I'm a little cheap especially when I find a good way to sharpen chains....One of the great things is that what might work for me may not for another, but all is good
 
Whitepine2 said:
cutting brush saw need to be reved up
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Totally agree.....

See that's why you have a smaller saw (with less aggressively sharpened chain) for brush ;)
 
Well it finally happened, I was cutting up some rounds last Saturday and I found some "hardware" in the log with my chain, I don't think my hand sharpener is going to fix this one.
 
Last summer I was cutting down a medium sized tree behind my dads neighbors house (probably 15" DBH). Low and behold in my back cut there was a bullet. I had sawed right through it. Lucky for me, it didn't really affect the chain much since lead is so soft. I have also hit nails and fence staples. Once I hit a piece of rebar that had been driven next to the tree (years ago) and the tree had grown around it........that actually broke the chain :mad:
 
kennyp, I had the same thing happen recently and that's when the Timberline sharpener came in handy. Chain was saved but it's life expectency was considereably shortened :(
 
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