Construction has begun...

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Creekheat

Feeling the Heat
Feb 2, 2014
307
Ny
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We are going to make an alcove for the stove, and use similar stone to finish. I really want an arch at the top but that will present a challenge. Double wall pipe will go from stove to cap. We will use black for the visible portion and stainless all the way through attic and out to the cap.
 
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That's real nice. Do you have the stove you want picked out for the alcove install? Are you going to be using something with a blower??

It will be real purdy when it's finished.
 
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That's real nice. Do you have the stove you want picked out for the alcove install? Are you going to be using something with a blower??

It will be real purdy when it's finished.
Thanks. We are getting a Jotul F55 Carabassett with the blower. It will be recessed about half way into the alcove so te chimney can run straight up through.
 
That will be a real beauty in an alcove. Love the stone........If we had started from scratch that is the direction we would have gone in.

For our family room, the corner fireplace was already there.......and too small to do an alcove install.

We will have a freestanding stove in front of the brick fireplace when all is said and done. I cannot wait to post pics.

Good luck.
 
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I just checked the F55 manual and even for a protected surface the minimum alcove height is 59", unprotected 72". Plus, any alcove requires larger clearances. In my personal opinion, I would avoid it if not necessary as the heat gets trapped in there and you will need a fan or blower to get it out. In your own interest, please make sure to follow all installation requirements. If you like the look of the posted pictures why did you not go for a zero clearance fireplace?
 
I just checked the F55 manual and even for a protected surface the minimum alcove height is 59", unprotected 72". Plus, any alcove requires larger clearances. In my personal opinion, I would avoid it if not necessary as the heat gets trapped in there and you will need a fan or blower to get it out. In your own interest, please make sure to follow all installation requirements. If you like the look of the posted pictures why did you not go for a zero clearance fireplace?
We want s wood stove, not a fireplace. We plan on meeting all requirements and proceeding safely of course. The stove will not be fully recessed. Only half way and the alcove will be finished in stone and we will have a blower. No heat will get trapped in there.
 
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So a question. What does everyone think, drywall it in, then spacer strips, then durock then stone OR durock then spacer strips then durock again then stone.
I will be putting a 1" ventilation space at the top and bottom of course. Fyi, the stove will not set all the way back in the alcove. Just far enough so the chimney can run up through the center of the chase. I will be using double wall all the way and what is not shown in the pics is a 4" raised hearth that will extend out into the room about 16".
I could use some construction ideas on the hearth. My rough idea is to frame the hearth with wood, then durock and finish with slate. Do i need a air space there too? If so, ideas?
The stove is a Jotul F55, which requires ember protection only. I like the hearth pads but my wife wants it raised. Maybe raised with a pad?
Thanks in advance. :)
 
Drywall on the studs is fine. You can make spacers for the Durock by cutting long 3" wide furring strips from a sheet. Double them up to achieve the 1" spacing. For good rigidity build the hearth with studs on 12" centers, cover with 3/4" ply, then Durock, then tile or stone on top.
 
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Arches are not that tough. Just use an angle grinder with a masonry wheel. Done a few and I am no mason - not at all.
 
Are the square ceiling boxes that the chimney passes through a standard size? The stove and chimney are going to be professionally installed but we are doing the alcove ourselves so i need to get this one piece and frame it in and install it so i can finish the alcove out.
 
How deep is your alcove (front to back)?
 
Are the square ceiling boxes that the chimney passes through a standard size? The stove and chimney are going to be professionally installed but we are doing the alcove ourselves so i need to get this one piece and frame it in and install it so i can finish the alcove out.
It will vary with the brand. Call your installer and ask them what specific brand ceiling support box they are going to use. The chimney mfg. will have dimensions for the support box in their catalog. Or just the installer to give you the dimensions.
 
How deep is your alcove (front to back)?

The alcove is 48" wide and 24" deep. Most of the stove will actually be outside of the alcove. It will sit back just enough to get the chimney (which sits at the very back of the F55) to run up through the center of the alcove.
 
You don't need air space for your hearth if its ember protection only

There are alcove instructions in the manual for the F55. I assumed i would need it?

I think he is referring to the hearth floor. The manual states:
  1. Alcove floor protection must consist of a UL/ULC or WHI listed hearth pad or a non combustible material.
You will need the 1" air gap for the walls. You will need ceiling protection with an air gap also if the height is less than 72".
 
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I think he is referring to the hearth floor. The manual states:
  1. Alcove floor protection must consist of a UL/ULC or WHI listed hearth pad or a non combustible material.
You will need the 1" air gap for the walls. You will need ceiling protection with an air gap also if the height is less than 72".
Thats what i thought. Thought i had misread something there lol
The alcove will be 84" tall when finished including a 6" raised hearth. It will be roughly 53" from the top of the stove to the top of the alcove.
 
Have a question...

I am building my alcove with protected walls with a 1" air gap. It does not say i there is a minimum thickness for the protected wall itself. This would be the i side wall which will be Durock and stone. Does it have to be a certain thickness?
 
Thickness is not relevant. The ventilated air gap behind is what's important. It could be made out of 26 ga sheet metal or tile on cement board and still be effective.
 
Awesome. That helps a bunch. Do you think I should use Durock behind it on the studs or is that overkill and I should just use sheetrock?

Just trying to be a safe as possible.
 
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Fire-taped sheetrock is fine.
 
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Getting there...next the steel studs, 1/2" hardibacker and brick. 1 1/2" ventilated air gap on all three sides and all tolerances exceeded. Stove and chimney in about 4 weeks.
 

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