My personal nightmare with wood!

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Usually had it within an 1/8 th of an inch from fully closeond. Flames are something I also wondered about. Seem like even when fully/almost fully dampered and basically smolering, I still get one or two spots burning off the wood. Dont know if it should be.

In a modern EPA stove you should not be able to fully damper down the fire until it just smolders. What you should see is that the wood itself has very few flames but you will see flames in the top of the firebox. If the stove is really hot it may even look like the secondary burn tubes are like little gas burners. The way you describe it, I would usually say your wood is not dry enough. However, the other option is that you are reducing the air too early before the stove is hot enough to sustain the secondary burn. Try the thermometer on top and get the stove to at least 500 F before turning down the air that much.
 
Dont think I mentioned. If I burn a med fire 300 deg or so,load the fire would be burnt to ash and cold in approx 4hrs.

Not sure I understand that and the temp could be off just because of the location of the thermometer.

BeGreen has a good point; you may just need more heat than the NC-30 can supply. To get an estimate of your heating load: How much coal do you usually burn per winter? What kind are you using?
 
When I get it up to the 500 deg range with the secondaries burning like little gas jets, I would be lucky to get an hour of usable heat during the colder times.
 
Usually burn 3 tons of anthracite rice coal. From some responses and more so, the lack of response to the amount of time I actually have flames in the firebox, im begining to think its somewhat normal. I have a two level 2200 sq ft home in a cold part of NH amd was a colder than normal winter. I think what is getting lost is I have no problem getting the fire ripping or dampered down/idling. Problem is on high im lucky to get an hour of usable heat. On low can get enough coals for relight after 8 hrs or more, but not enough heat/56 deg house temps. I may give it a go next season. Not sure. I know my wife doesnt miss the mess the wood made and shes really happy to not wake up to 56 deg temps!!
 
Usually burn 3 tons of anthracite rice coal. From some responses and more so, the lack of response to the amount of time I actually have flames in the firebox, im begining to think its somewhat normal. I have a two level 2200 sq ft home in a cold part of NH amd was a colder than normal winter. I think what is getting lost is I have no problem getting the fire ripping or dampered down/idling. Problem is on high im lucky to get an hour of usable heat. On low can get enough coals for relight after 8 hrs or more, but not enough heat/56 deg house temps. I may give it a go next season. Not sure. I know my wife doesnt miss the mess the wood made and shes really happy to not wake up to 56 deg temps!!

I don't think your experience is normal. When I fill my 2 cu ft stove with dry ash, I easily get 6 hr of usable heat. When I reload it, the stove is still in the 350 F to 400 F range. The secondary burn would last for about 3 hours while the stovetop temp would stay above 500 F and then slowly taper down over the next 3 hrs. Your experience would be more like burning pine, not oak. How many coals are left after you had that good secondary burn and the fire is out?

3 short tons of anthracite equate to about 3 cords of oak assuming similar efficiencies between the coal stove and the wood stove; maybe 4 when your coal burner is more efficient. Still, the NC-30 should easily be able to heat your home. Can you measure the flue temp? It would really be good to know how much heat you are losing up the flue.
 
Which was it? Freshly cut or 3 years old? If your wood is wet you'll burn a lot of it and not get much heat in return. If you already switched back to coal I guess this is a moot discussion. . .

It was "exactly" what I said!! "Freshly cut THREE years ago"! Top covered for a little over three years until recent when I started using it. I may try again. That is why I asked for advice.
 
It was "exactly" what I said!! "Freshly cut THREE years ago"! Top covered for a little over three years until recent when I started using it. I may try again. That is why I asked for advice.
Uh, getting snappy at people who are trying to help and misunderstood what you wrote is not going to encourage them to help you figure this out. But maybe you don't want that help if your mind is made up and you just came here to complain?

For whatever it's worth, I have smaller stove with a 2 CF firebox and a not well insulated house in VT, and I haven't had your problems. Since it's soapstone, the surface doesn't get as hot, but it runs easily up to 400-450 and cruises there for 3 hours or so, and I generally reload after it drops to 350 in about 4 hours. Something's not right here, and if you'll be patient, the folks here may be able to figure it out.

Here's my contribution, based on having been there and done that. Have you checked that your baffle is intact and properly seated? Do you have a thermometer on your flue? Sounds to me like somehow, all your heat is going up the chimney.
 
Didnt think I was complaining or snippy in any of my posts. Except maybe the last one.. lol Just felt like I was being talked down to. Maybe I misinterpreted. Ive been a member here longer than most (although I dont post that often) and I think I have seen and heard it all. Anyhow, yes the baffle is seated correct and tight together and intact. Yes thermometer on flue usually 200 to 300.
 
That's what he did!
I think the root of the issue is that coal is just probably much better than wood. :)
Well, no. First, he's got a stove 50 percent bigger than mine. Second, we have no idea what his temp is since he's been putting the thermo on the front of it for some reason. And third, he says, "within 3 hours there was nothing but coals and not throwing much heat." Depends on your definition of "throwing much heat," I guess, and we don't know what his is.

But I have no problem heating an old and drafty, albeit smaller, house with a much smaller stove. It may well be that coal is better than wood for maintaining consistent heat over a longer period of time. If that's what he requires to be happy, then he should probably go back to it. But his stove isn't performing right.
 
Usually burn 3 tons of anthracite rice coal. From some responses and more so, the lack of response to the amount of time I actually have flames in the firebox, im begining to think its somewhat normal. I have a two level 2200 sq ft home in a cold part of NH amd was a colder than normal winter. I think what is getting lost is I have no problem getting the fire ripping or dampered down/idling. Problem is on high im lucky to get an hour of usable heat. On low can get enough coals for relight after 8 hrs or more, but not enough heat/56 deg house temps. I may give it a go next season. Not sure. I know my wife doesnt miss the mess the wood made and shes really happy to not wake up to 56 deg temps!!

What do you mean, "on high" - is that with the air open? The stove is not meant to run that way and will actually be cooler on the stove top.
 
Didnt think I was complaining or snippy in any of my posts. Except maybe the last one.. lol Just felt like I was being talked down to. Maybe I misinterpreted. Ive been a member here longer than most (although I dont post that often) and I think I have seen and heard it all. Anyhow, yes the baffle is seated correct and tight together and intact. Yes thermometer on flue usually 200 to 300.
Hey, guy, somebody who puts their thermometer on the front of the stove is going to get talked down to a bit. You clearly haven't heard and seen it all, or at least not carefully, if you think that's where the thermometer belongs. That leads people to think maybe there are other basic things you're missing.

200-300 on a flue make no sense at all. The heat from your wood is going somewhere, and if it isn't heating the stove, it's going up the flue. If it's a double-wall inside flue, if that's what you have, a thermometer on the outside is basically useless.

You have a great stove, and from what you say, a well-seasoned stack of wood. Something isn't right, and it ain't the stove. Either there's something wrong with your set-up or something wrong with what you're doing with it or how you're reporting it. It may be that that stove isn't big enough for your needs, but taking literally what you say it's doing, it isn't working right.

Just curiously, where has your wood been for those three years? If it was split and stacked outside in full sun and wind, it should be fine. If it wasn't split and has been sitting inside a garage, not so much.
 
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How bout a photo of the stove and set up?
Sounds more like a 13 than a 30.
No way it should be burning through a full load in anything less than 8-10 hours +
 
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Single wall, about 18 inches from stove, magnetic type.

That does not make any sense either. What the heck, I have no clue what happens to your wood. Sure you don't have a black hole in your stove? ;)

Now, if you burn 3 cu ft of oak in a few hours without the heat going up your flue, the stove should be a melted puddle of iron in the middle of your living-room. It borders on ridiculous but are you sure you have oak? Maybe it is punky? Does it feel heavy or relatively light? Are you still running the stove? Would you mind shooting some videos of the fire including temp readings and post them here?
 
All I was saying is whenever I would get a decent size, not huge fire going it burned so fast it was out and cold in about 4 hrs.

Ain't no 30 on the planet gonna be cold in four hours with a full load of wood.

I think you need to get another little Century stove. You seemed to like the one you had before.
 
Hey, guy, somebody who puts their thermometer on the front of the stove is going to get talked down to a bit. You clearly haven't heard and seen it all, or at least not carefully, if you think that's where the thermometer belongs. That leads people to think maybe there are other basic things you're missing.

200-300 on a flue make no sense at all. The heat from your wood is going somewhere, and if it isn't heating the stove, it's going up the flue. If it's a double-wall inside flue, if that's what you have, a thermometer on the outside is basically useless.

You have a great stove, and from what you say, a well-seasoned stack of wood. Something isn't right, and it ain't the stove. Either there's something wrong with your set-up or something wrong with what you're doing with it or how you're reporting it. It may be that that stove isn't big enough for your needs, but taking literally what you say it's doing, it isn't working right.

Just curiously, where has your wood been for those three years? If it was split and stacked outside in full sun and wind, it should be fine. If it wasn't split and has been sitting inside a garage, not so much.
No one on this site is talking down to me, trust me! I also would argue the fact of thermometer placement. Ever heard of "double wall stoves"? Thermometer on top is totallly useless. My opinion is a more accurate reading of what is happening in your firebox is the front right corner not the top that is separated by a baffle and burn tubes. Either way I dont believe that is a significant factor in this case.
 
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