Anyone try repair stripped muffler threads - Husq 350

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TradEddie

Minister of Fire
Jan 24, 2012
981
SE PA
I've used and abused my Husqvarna 350 beyond anything it was ever designed for, and the only problem I've had was when I excessively tightened the muffler bolts on a hot cylinder, stripping the threads. I repaired it with helicoils, but the bolts do continue to vibrate loose, and eventually either the helicoils or the bolt threads get stripped again. I've run out of helicoils from repeated repairs so before I buy more, I was considering other options. I notice that there is a Husqvarna thread repair insert for exactly this job, has anyone else had experience using it?

TE
 
I've used and abused my Husqvarna 350 beyond anything it was ever designed for, and the only problem I've had was when I excessively tightened the muffler bolts on a hot cylinder, stripping the threads. I repaired it with helicoils, but the bolts do continue to vibrate loose, and eventually either the helicoils or the bolt threads get stripped again. I've run out of helicoils from repeated repairs so before I buy more, I was considering other options. I notice that there is a Husqvarna thread repair insert for exactly this job, has anyone else had experience using it?

TE

I haven't had any experience with Husqvarna thread repair, but I can assume it is quite similar to a helicoil repair.
With that being said, since you have already installed a helicoil, it may not work.
 
Call your dealer and ask him if there is a chance of breathing a bit more life into it? They must've been down this road before.
 
Repair with helicoil. Note how much of the bolt is going into the threads when muffler is tight. Take bolt back out and on the LAST (not the first) few threads, take a sharp chisel and ding the threads in ONE small area. As the bolt is almost tight, the last few threads act like an interference fit. Its hillbilly loctite. Don't over do it.
 
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Repair with helicoil. Note how much of the bolt is going into the threads when muffler is tight. Take bolt back out and on the LAST (not the first) few threads, take a sharp chisel and ding the threads in ONE small area. As the bolt is almost tight, the last few threads act like an interference fit. Its hillbilly loctite. Don't over do it.
Nice! Almost like a staked nut, never thought to do it to a bolt.
 
On several other powersport applications that like to shake loose hardware, I've had good luck using nord-lock washers I bought at Fastenal.
They are "expensive" for washers, but have cured the issue of bolts that like to back out in extreme vibration environments.
The backing-out part isn't the issue, its the way a loose fastener galls-up the aluminum threads, or stainless helicoil inserts.
Nord locks hold the fastener tight under the head of the fastener, not by the threads.
 
Are you using high temp thread locker??

If not, there is your first problem.

I have also had good luck using JB WELD on the outside of the heli-coil and then thread locker on the bolt itself (though that is a bit more extreme, the heli-coil will NOT come back out if you do it that way).

Don't over do it
I love your idea Jags, but most people will overdo it ;)
 
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