I have a superior Heatform that i would like to cut through the "slopping" top plate to provide access to place a solid liner up an old tile flue. By doing this i should be able to use a new insert with a sloped 45* stove pipe connection, make a 45* bend and go straight up the flue!? Cutting out the heater pipes, damper, and excess material (as needed) is more complex and requires a very flex-able liner. After cutting the vertical access holes i plan on filling the Heatform inner body with Rockwool. Is this reasonable, safe and acceptable. Any additional input is appreciated.
Cut hole in top plating of heatform?
- Thread starter brich
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
I think you are going to find that most inserts that permit installation into a factory built fireplace require that there be no modification of said fireplace.
It's my understanding from reading other posts regarding the A Heatform is a metal firebox which is built into a full masonry chimney. Also, there are many posts referring to cutting the tubes and damper out. now I'm confused.
Last edited by a moderator:
Lot of people have done it with them, just saying make sure the local inspector isn't gonna have a problem with it. Sucks to have them slap you with words in the insert manual on final inspection.
Theres nothing wrong with modifying that fireplace. It's surrounded with a solid masonry structure, if it was a zero clearance unit then you would not be able to modify it.
We use a combination of a 4-1/2" grinder and a sawzall to remove the tubes and often a portion of the smoke shelf. Make sure to insulate the liner too.
The way I see it, even though its been modified its still gonna be safer with a sealed insert and an insulated flue liner.
We use a combination of a 4-1/2" grinder and a sawzall to remove the tubes and often a portion of the smoke shelf. Make sure to insulate the liner too.
The way I see it, even though its been modified its still gonna be safer with a sealed insert and an insulated flue liner.
yes i agree totally i have never had an inspector have a problem with this situation
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
I installed my Summit in an old Heatform.
Double wall rigid installed except for 5' of flex at the bottom through the smoke shelf to the stove.
Less angle than elbows and easier to clean.
Double wall rigid installed except for 5' of flex at the bottom through the smoke shelf to the stove.
Less angle than elbows and easier to clean.
The riskiest part of the entire project is not burning yourself with grinder spray.
It's really not a big deal, it's very very common.
etiger2007
Minister of Fire
What do you mean "down through the smoke shelf"? If I cut through the Sloped back/top and connect directly to the stove via an angled pipe, Isn't that easier? Do you have any pictures or more detailed explanation?
It depends on the insert. Different stoves will have the flue outlet in different locations. Some inserts have a pitched (sloped) outlet option, others have it flat on top. If you have the latter then it's ideal to have the liner directly connect to the insert with no other fitting other than the connector on the end. But not all installations avail themselves to this. A slight offset can be done with the flex alone. A larger angle may need an elbow.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Down through the smoke shelf, refers to the flex running from the first flue tile, "down through the smoke shelf, which is just below the first flue tile, and down through the old damper area onto the insert outlet.
You ain't gonna "angle a pipe". You may need an elbow, which can be slightly more difficult to clean.
This is where the flex is more forgiving, and can be slightly angled to meet the stove easier and more flush.
There are pics all over the place in prior posts. Do a search and you'll find plenty.
Getting a piece of pipe to meet the insert outlet flush & tight, is not as easy as one thinKs most of the time. As it usually does not have a straight enough run down to the insert outlet.
You ain't gonna "angle a pipe". You may need an elbow, which can be slightly more difficult to clean.
This is where the flex is more forgiving, and can be slightly angled to meet the stove easier and more flush.
There are pics all over the place in prior posts. Do a search and you'll find plenty.
Getting a piece of pipe to meet the insert outlet flush & tight, is not as easy as one thinKs most of the time. As it usually does not have a straight enough run down to the insert outlet.
Last edited:
yes even with flex lots of times we need to use a 15 or 30 degree elbow on top of the stove to make it work right
Ya, I find about 1 out of 10 that don't need an elbow. It doesn't have any noticeable effect on draft or performance. Most need an elbow, that's just how it is.
- Status
Similar threads
