Is there any practical way of processing an Oak tree this dang huge?

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He's pretty reasonable but when it comes just dropping trees but anything else and he ain't cheap. He brought down 6 trees last year, all in harms way, and the bill was quite high. I could buy a saw for what he would charge to buck the big end down into rounds.
 
I could buy a saw for what he would charge to buck the big end down into rounds.
Sounds like you have your excuse! Me? I'd have had them bucked up an hour after the tree came down. It's a big tree, but bucking it won't take more than a few minutes per cut, with the right saw. Been there, done it.
 
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If you were closer, I'd come and buck it for lunch and maybe gas money.

I bucked a 5' silver maple trunk a couple of years ago. Refueled and touched up the chain after every round. I didn't even take the wood, just the $100 the guy offered. I thought it was fun. Don't get to use my 7900 at its max very often.

You got some good ideas here. I like Joful's methods.
 
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Really though, what would it be worth to a mill looking for something that large and old?
 
Really though, what would it be worth to a mill looking for something that large and old?

Potentially alot, depends alot in the integrity of the inside of the tree.... and fuel to get to wherever. A portable mill would probably be where i would start.
 
It looks like the first 10' log would weigh somewhere around 8000 lbs. assuming it's about 48" in diameter in the center. I don't think my wife and son would let someone come in and cross two of their pastures to get to it with heavy equipment. They have 65 head of cattle right now, including calves and after this past winter the pastures are in bad enough shape as it is. I believe the only way to go if we did get it milled would be a Lucas Mill that could be setup over the logs, I've looked on their website for a possible link to owners of Lucas Mills but haven't found anyway to search for something like that, I guess I could email them and ask if there's anyone in NC with one of their mills. I looked at some bandsaw mill websites and I haven't found a portable bandsaw mill big enough to handle it, I know there's several people around here that will come to your property with their bandsaw mill. We have to make a trip about tomorrow to the local JD dealer and the main salesperson there knows a couple people with bandsaw mills, I may have him hook me up with them and see what they say.
 
If you were closer, I'd come and buck it for lunch and maybe gas money.

I bucked a 5' silver maple trunk a couple of years ago. Refueled and touched up the chain after every round. I didn't even take the wood, just the $100 the guy offered. I thought it was fun. Don't get to use my 7900 at its max very often.

You got some good ideas here. I like Joful's methods.

Why heck yeah, I wish you were closer. We had some guys from the AS site volunteer to come over and cut up a big Sweet Gum some years ago, they just wanted to cut and help us out a bit. They wouldn't use our gas, they ran aviation fuel in their saws. My wife fixed them a whole big meal for lunch. One guy had a Dolmar 7900 and another had a Husky 3120 with 4' bar. One guy didn't even burn wood he just collects chainsaws and like to saw, drove about an hour to get here.
 
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I have seen mobile saw mills that use chainsaws.... the equipment attaches to the log somehow and guides the chainsaw. I would think this setup would cut thinker pieces to allow more material for planing at the mill........
 
If you are going to use a saw with a long bar (>28") get yourself a skip tooth chain if you are going to rip it lengthwise. It'll go much easier on the saw and the long shavings won't plug things up under the bar cover and overheat the clutch.
 
Here's the chainsaw mill setup I've been using this Spring to mill up some Doug Fir boards that I plan on using to side my shed. I make the first cut using a section of extension ladder screwed to the log. After the first cut is made, I just take 1" boards off the log until I can't get anymore. I use my 066 with a ripping chain and it works pretty slick. Also a great way to make beams (I think the adjustment allows for up to a 13" beam). The bar pictured is a 36" which is the longest my mill will take, but you can get them in just about any size.

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So, I was out processing some bigger rounds yesterday, and had the chance to photo this slab bing technique. Since I was working alone, I did not get to photo the subsequent splitting, and I forgot to photo the resulting product.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
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Yes yes.....I've been working on a similar tree for a few months now. I did have someone take it down for me and then saw it
up into rounds of 20". I'm moving each round out and sawing them in half...as I'm getting closer to the stump I think I may even
have to quarter them. I have a vertical splitter, so that helps...but, doing it by yourself still takes time. I work on it for a few hours each week...come on folks, I've got other stuff to do, as well. But, nevertheless, lots and lots of wood!
Chip away at it....
 
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Come on fellas - you can do it. I had this one blocked and MOVED 3 miles away in two afternoons.

That was a Mac110 with a big bar (pro arborist). I was in the truck tensioning the bull rope.

Still pic after the drop:
oak4.jpg

That was the only cut that the Mac made. I did the rest with my MS361.
 
Why'd it take you two days, Jags? ;)
 
Why'd it take you two days, Jags? ;)

No, no - not two days, just two evenings/afternoons. I had to work my real job first.
 
I suppose all you need (which would be what I don't have) are the tools and the transportation. Hell, I check CL for free wood just to keep my ear to the ground but have no ready access to a truck. Someone's got what they claim is 2 cord of white oak, nearby, and I can't do diddly about it.

Anyone in Central NC should check the Winston Craigslist, if you're interested. :)
 
The whole wood gathering thing will be difficult at best without a method to move wood. I guess you could always take the route of having it dropped off.
 
Don't know much about it, but I've heard that some of these BIG trees can fetch outrageous prices for use as veneer. Obviously that's a different ball game than most of your small time (portable) mills. Might be worth checking into before having it milled.
 
Most of what I see (in terms of free) are people who have felled or had trees felled for them and they want someone to come pick up the logs/rounds. If I can get in touch with a tree service which would drop off what would be otherwise a waste burden for them, that would be ideal. No luck so far though.


it-s-all-part-of-the-plan-o.gif


It's all part of the [tinyhouse homestead] plan.
 
Come on fellas - you can do it. I had this one blocked and MOVED 3 miles away in two afternoons.
That was a Mac110 with a big bar (pro arborist). I was in the truck tensioning the bull rope.

Still pic after the drop:
View attachment 132828

That was the only cut that the Mac made. I did the rest with my MS361.
Bet that made some pretty big holes in the ground when it came down.
 
Bet that made some pretty big holes in the ground when it came down.

There were 10" branchs stuck 4' into the ground. Had to chain them and pull to get them out.
 
Nice to have all that room to drop it....and to be OK with sticking 10" branches 4' into the ground.
 
Nice to have all that room to drop it....and to be OK with sticking 10" branches 4' into the ground.
That was at a buddys house. He has a 10 acre yard that used to be a park 100 years ago. Lots of vintage oaks there. I get a little nervous when I can't do my back cut in one swipe (its just me), that is why the pro was called in for one cut. The quote from the pro to piece it down was into the thousands. It made the yard holes a little easier to deal with.>>
 
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