Englander NC-30 owners.. What length splits?

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SpAmSoNiTe

SpAmSoNiTe

Member
Mar 22, 2014
75
Jefferson, OH
Hey all! Finally getting nice enough outside that I can start cutting some of my aged slabs down to lenght and I was wondering what most NC-30 owners recommend cutting to? I've got the firebrick taken out of mine currently until I get it into final position on the mantle so kinda hard to measure ATM..

Thanks,
Sam.
 
I cut most between 16" and 18". A 30 full of 16" splits is a bunch of firewood.
 
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There are a few very good reasons to stick with 16" wood even if your stove can handle more.
 
My stove takes 18 1/4 I cut to 17 ,my 2c
 
I also try to keep it at 18in max.
 
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mol1jb said:
I also try to keep it at 18in max.
Click to expand...


BrotherBart said:
I cut most between 16" and 18". A 30 full of 16" splits is a bunch of firewood.
Click to expand...

The NC will handle up to 20", correct? Maybe 20 would be too tight to the glass??

I have been cutting all my wood to 18" right now for 2015-16.
I have plenty of 16" (seasoned) to burn this coming winter.

What advantage would 16" have over 18"? Wouldn't the 18" give longer burn times? Or is it negligible?
 
20" is the exact width of the firebox so it is difficult to load 20" stuff E/W and leaves no space on the ends of the splits for air flow and optimum burn. For N/S anything over 18" pretty much ends up with on end of the splits sitting on the air distribution ledge in the front. I don't notice enough difference in burn times with 16" to worry about it. With N/S "cigar" burning if the splits are 18" or more the flames and heat at the early part of the burn just goes straight up over the baffle and out to the great outdoors.
 
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Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll try the 16's this year and see how they work out.
 
Well 16" wood is great because 3 rows of them will stack on a pallet. Or, like I do, two rows plus four inches space between makes for a great 1 foot overhang on each side from a standard 5 foot wide strip of plastic visqueen.

You can easily buy, sell, donate, help other folks with 16" wood because that is the standard stove wood length.

A stove that can handle a 20" being loaded with 16" wood means you have a couple of inches on each side for imperfect loading, odd shaped splits, throwing the wood in, and getting the fire back in the box away from the glass.

You never know when you might replace your stove and oversized wood is a drag.

It's okay to load right to the glass and it is not wrong to cut wood as long as possible for your stove but you are limiting your options for use.
 
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Highbeam said:
You never know when you might replace your stove and oversized wood is a drag.

.
Click to expand...

Yep. Exactly what I am doing right now. Got the rest of my 22" splits waiting for a family friend to pick up(not much after this past winter)
 
Highbeam said:
Well 16" wood is great because 3 rows of them will stack on a pallet. Or, like I do, two rows plus four inches space between makes for a great 1 foot overhang on each side from a standard 5 foot wide strip of plastic visqueen.

You can easily buy, sell, donate, help other folks with 16" wood because that is the standard stove wood length.

A stove that can handle a 20" being loaded with 16" wood means you have a couple of inches on each side for imperfect loading, odd shaped splits, throwing the wood in, and getting the fire back in the box away from the glass.

You never know when you might replace your stove and oversized wood is a drag.

It's okay to load right to the glass and it is not wrong to cut wood as long as possible for your stove but you are limiting your options for use.
Click to expand...


It makes measuring easier too - 3 rows = 4 ft
 
I think the stove actually performs at its overall best with 16 inch splits air moves a bit better (better saturation) when you have the additional space to the sides in an east/west load. longer splits in E/W seem to make the air move a bit faster and the rear logs don't get as complete a burn, more coaling at the end of the fire.
 
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Do you folks really try and chuck wood in there e/w? That's seems crazy in this nice deep firebox. N/s is where it's at.
 
stoveguy2esw said:
I think the stove actually performs at its overall best with 16 inch splits air moves a bit better (better saturation) when you have the additional space to the sides in an east/west load. longer splits in E/W seem to make the air move a bit faster and the rear logs don't get as complete a burn, more coaling at the end of the fire.
Click to expand...
So ,no space on the sides will make the air move faster ? Would that hold true for N/S load to, and Would that hold true in the same type stove like mine , in sig ?
 
Apx 17", leaves a little room front and back for air flow. Center of back firebox wall is secondary air flow channel want to allow that to get heated
 
I prefer 16". Since I only have couple years under my belt I'm still a newbie. If I could only get my eyeball calibrated to 16" it would really help! Last winter I processed about 9 cords and it looks like I ended up in the 18" give or take (mostly give) a little bit.

Any good tips to make it 16" every time? Short of taking out a tape measure?
 
BurnIt13 said:
I prefer 16". Since I only have couple years under my belt I'm still a newbie. If I could only get my eyeball calibrated to 16" it would really help! Last winter I processed about 9 cords and it looks like I ended up in the 18" give or take (mostly give) a little bit.

Any good tips to make it 16" every time? Short of taking out a tape measure?
Click to expand...
I use a cutting guide/ here are some check em out
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/firewood-cutting-guide.94580/
 
velvetfoot said:
A 16" long stick painted orange.
Click to expand...
You could use the bar (considering you are using a 16" bar and want 16 inch splits).

As you buck just quickly turn the saw sideways, putting the tip at the end of log and then look at where the bar meets the saw against the log. Take a quick mental imagine and cut at that spot.
 
HDRock said:
So ,no space on the sides will make the air move faster ? Would that hold true for N/S load to, and Would that hold true in the same type stove like mine , in sig ?
Click to expand...


think about it this way, the chimney will pull a certain volume of air, the more open space in the firebox the slower the air travels through it, like a deep channel in a stream. the extra space on the sides seems to "settle' the primary air down, thus the secondaries which aren't affected by this as far as airflow is concerned tend to be a bit more complete
 
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Sorry to have hijacked a bit...but thank you to those with the 16" painted stick idea. I've got some scrap oak dowel that will do the trick....
 
I hold onto the stick with my left hand while sawing. It's thin enough where it doesn't get in the way.
 
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