Only one way to get this Enviro Auger Motor out!

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,117
Salem NH
SawZall ! ! !

Maybe because it was a little rusty? Brass bearing is toast! How about an upgraded Nylatron bearing for replacement?

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Looks to me you should dump that stove "back" into the ocean.

Yes I was thinking that too. Fortunately that is the worst of it! I cleaned out the auger chute and sanded and coated the chute with "Dry Moly" and the same to the hopper and coated with "Slip Plate" looks good now. Therefore a new auger, motor and upgraded nylatron bearing with end plate should get it working really well! :)
 
Now it is time!
Time for what?
"Pimp your Auger" time! LOL

New auger, new Bushing plate with Nylatron bushing and rubber gasket to replace the old brass bearing and metal gasket. Also a new Gleason-Avery high quality and highperformance auger motor!

The new nylatron auger bushing will make this OLD Enviro EF-3 work as good as an OLD Whitfield ! ! !LOL notice I said OLD becaise they have a fatter auger shaft and last longer!
The shaft is 3/4" not 5/8" which uses the bigger bearing that also comes in Nylatron!

Only one problem! ! !
The Brand New Enviro Auger is LOADED with the dreaded "Auger Pox" Oh No! No fears, we have the cure!

See pics below!
After using the drill driver with the brass bristle brush, the top brass auger bushing was cleaned thorouhly and lubricated with Pellet Stove Master Pellet Stove Oil!

Now the new auger and bushing "Turns like Butter" LOL

Pic 1 - New Enviro Auger for stoves built before 01/08
Pic 2 - Auger Pox - bad case - needs grinding and wire brushing!
Pic 3 - New Auger treated with "Dry Moly", Nylatron Auger Bushing, New EndPlate and New rubber gasket
Pic 4 - New upgraded setup installed to "Pimp your Ride"
Pic 5 - rusted hopper cleaned, wire brushed, ground and treated with "Slip Plate"

Also threw in 4 brand new 1/4 x 20 3/4"Long Stainless Steel screws for the EndPlate and 1 - 5/16 3/4" long SS auger collar bolt for the best way to secure it all! ! !
 

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nice going, Don. thanks for the pics and info.

what exactly is Auger Pox (corrosion of some type)?
 
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nice going, Don. thanks for the pics and info.

what exactly is Auger Pox (corrosion of some type)?
When the spiral fins are welded to the shaft bits of slag splatter and form pimples that are very sharp and shred the pellets passing through! No brand of stove is immune. These pimples must be ground down so check your auger and the flight tube also!
 
When the spiral fins are welded to the shaft bits of slag splatter and form pimples that are very sharp and shred the pellets passing through! No brand of stove is immune. These pimples must be ground down so check your auger and the flight tube also!

good to know. thanks for sharing.
 
When the spiral fins are welded to the shaft bits of slag splatter and form pimples that are very sharp and shred the pellets passing through! No brand of stove is immune. These pimples must be ground down so check your auger and the flight tube also!

Might help, those paddles are at the top of the shoot dumping into the pot, I really have not noticed any issues with my Mini In that matter.
 
SawZall ! ! !

Maybe because it was a little rusty? Brass bearing is toast! How about an upgraded Nylatron bearing for replacement?

Click Pics to Enlarge:


Personally I would not use nylon bushing its to hot up in that area. The brass baring though it looks like oil impregnated brass needs to be greased up once a year, its a pain but keeps you form burning out the motor.

Idea: You could fit some kind of geese fitting on the bushing and run a metal tube from the bushing to a accessible place where you can use a grease gun.
 
Personally I would not use nylon bushing its to hot up in that area. The brass baring though it looks like oil impregnated brass needs to be greased up once a year, its a pain but keeps you form burning out the motor.

Idea: You could fit some kind of geese fitting on the bushing and run a metal tube from the bushing to a accessible place where you can use a grease gun.

Yes, it is an oil impregnated brass bearing and needes to be cleaned and oiled often. That is why I like the Nylatron. It is at the bottom of the hopper so it really does not get that hot. The only time so far I have seen the nylon type auger bearings fail is when there is a bad hopper fire and it melts. Sure after 15 years I have seen a Whitfield Nylatron bearing leak sawdust but still run good. That is a much better track record than the brass bearing!
Therefore putting in a new nylon bearing once every 10 to 15 years is not so bad!

Englander uses a huge auger bearing that requires the red high temperature greese and has a greese fitting. It works well and lasts but I have seen many of those stoves where the grease fitting failed and I have to get greese in there another way!
 
Might help, those paddles are at the top of the shoot dumping into the pot, I really have not noticed any issues with my Mini In that matter.

I would still check the auger anyway. Splattered slag does not hamper the stoves operation as much when the stove is new, but I have seen that become a big factor when the stove is 3-4 years old.
 
Personally I would not use nylon bushing its to hot up in that area. The brass baring though it looks like oil impregnated brass needs to be greased up once a year, its a pain but keeps you form burning out the motor.

Idea: You could fit some kind of geese fitting on the bushing and run a metal tube from the bushing to a accessible place where you can use a grease gun.
A lot of nylatron has very high working temps.A oilite bushing (assuming you burn 4-5 tons) should need lube once a year.Grease is bad on oilite.Proper way is to remove bushing and soak in oil.(who does that!) The stainless screws would scare me,break easier and harder to drill as they do not like to chip,and corrode in the absense of oxygen.And throw in chloride from the wood.
 
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A lot of nylatron has very high working temps.A oilite bushing (assuming you burn 4-5 tons) should need lube once a year.Grease is bad on oilite.Proper way is to remove bushing and soak in oil.(who does that!) The stainless screws would scare me,break easier and harder to drill as they do not like to chip,and corrode in the absense of oxygen.And throw in chloride from the wood.

x2, Nylatron is much better. Also top feeding stoves with larger augers seem to have less jams.
I am working on a HR Saranac stove. I have to pull the auger and it has a brass bearing. I do have a Delron bearing that just might fit. Should I try it?
If it works better, then it would be a super good upgrade for many stoves like this?
 
x2, Nylatron is much better. Also top feeding stoves with larger augers seem to have less jams.
I am working on a HR Saranac stove. I have to pull the auger and it has a brass bearing. I do have a Delron bearing that just might fit. Should I try it?
If it works better, then it would be a super good upgrade for many stoves like this?
Don't really know,Don.Some stoves that are known for high heat in the hopper(think older englanders) I would stay away from nylatron at the top,or any stove that is known for hopper fires,because in a bad situation the bronze will still be there(but should be replaced after any hopper incident).Great britian is an excellent source for metric bronze bushings,maybe nylatron also?
 
When the spiral fins are welded to the shaft bits of slag splatter and form pimples that are very sharp and shred the pellets passing through! No brand of stove is immune. These pimples must be ground down so check your auger and the flight tube also!
Spiral fins are called "flighting"
 
It works
 

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