Disaster averted!

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webby3650

Master of Fire
Sep 2, 2008
11,501
Indiana
Look what we found while changing out the pipe on this unit. The installers didn't use an insulation shield and the cellulose had started to turn black! Scary stuff!
Also they used direct-vent firestops that only allow 1"clearance.
 

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Yikes. I'm glad that you got to that one just in time and before something serious happened. What clued them in? Did they smell smoke?
 
But cellulose doesn't burn.... remember? It's been treated......
 
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Yikes. I'm glad that you got to that one just in time and before something serious happened. What clued them in? Did they smell smoke?
Ohh, they smelled smoke alright!
They called us out over a year ago because it wouldn't draw and the original installer (HVAC) had gone out of business. The unit is a Napoleon NZ 6000, and we found that they had used 6" pipe on it. It had 6" dura-tech, old metalbestos elbows with no support on a 2' offset, and DV firestops. Not much else could have been wrong!
 
Looks like it had a bit of a leak also.
 
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Yeap, Seen that alot.
A little spit on a finger and work it both ways, and what a difference.
A bead of caulk pumped on and left, is just that.
 
But cellulose doesn't burn.... remember? It's been treated......


now theres a question, i have a friend that his chimney has direct contact with that shreaded pink fibre type insulation. i always thought there was supposed to be a 2" airspace around the chimney and always use mine this way, but he said it dont burn so thats how his is without the air space..

now is it ok or not? im afraid to have anything touching it but metal
 
now theres a question, i have a friend that his chimney has direct contact with that shreaded pink fibre type insulation. i always thought there was supposed to be a 2" airspace around the chimney and always use mine this way, but he said it dont burn so thats how his is without the air space..

now is it ok or not? im afraid to have anything touching it but metal
You are correct, no insulation of any kind should be in contact with the pipe.
 
Or you will end up with a melted mess, never have been able to get fiberglass (no backing) to catch fire. It gets pretty rock hard after melting and cooling several times.

I think quite a few installers use unbacked fiberglass as "block-off plate" around a liner. Certainly the ones who installed my insert wanted to do that. Never thought it would pose a problem other than being a suboptimal installation.
 
I think quite a few installers use unbacked fiberglass as "block-off plate" around a liner. Certainly the ones who installed my insert wanted to do that. Never thought it would pose a problem other than being a suboptimal installation.
Most manufacturers want to see a 2" air space around the pipe. The only manufacturer that allows insulation on the pipe that I'm aware of is TLC from hart&cooley. They make an insulation wrap that can be used in the ceiling box or attic insulation shield.
 
Selkirk sells JUSI (universal shielding insulation) that is permitted for use with their attic insulation shield, cathedral support box and their wall thimble.
 
Selkirk sells JUSI (universal shielding insulation) that is permitted for use with their attic insulation shield, cathedral support box and their wall thimble.
Ya that's it. Same company.
 
Sounds more like a legal/listing requirement than that is actually dangerous to put mineral wool around the pipe. Just wondering if liners are always assumed to be safe to put in contact with mineral wool insulation as we often recommend to stuff Roxul in the damper area.
 
With all of these systems you should follow manufacturers install instructions and recommended materials because that is how they were tested and listed. If you use other materials or don't follow instructions and something happens it is very likely that the insurance company will not pay. There are many things that could be used that would be safe but i just don't think it is worth the risk just to save a few bucks or a little time.
 
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Well I guess im sticking with my 2 inches.
 
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Sounds more like a legal/listing requirement than that is actually dangerous to put mineral wool around the pipe. Just wondering if liners are always assumed to be safe to put in contact with mineral wool insulation as we often recommend to stuff Roxul in the damper area.
I absolutely agree. But Bholler summed it up, if there was ever an issue you can guarantee there be lots of finger pointing. I don't want any fingers pointed at me!

I'll add that I do not think its acceptable to have any type of insulation except ceramic/mineral wool in contact with a wood burning appliance or its connector.
 
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I'll add that I do not think its acceptable to have any type of insulation except ceramic/mineral wool in contact with a wood burning appliance or its connector.

absolutely agree with this as well well thermix or one of the other pour in insulation are ok to
 
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This fireplace was completely bricked in so we had to pull the DV gas unit upstairs to get to the class A pipe the was behind it. We cut a hole through the floor so I could climb down ontop of the NZ6000. It was a good time!
 
That reminds me of a project at my place this spring. I hired a chimney guy to add an 8" flue in a chase that already had two flues. I didn't want to get in the way, but I went downstairs and asked his helper, "where's Tim?", since he wasn't around. He was in the chase! He put in the entire chimney without taking anything off the chase! He's a wirey guy. I was impressed.
 
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