Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Removal

It's pretty tough to sand cedar. Whatever you do, don't take a belt sander to it. I suspect an RO sander won't do well, either, constantly loosing discs in the transitions between deck boards. If you have to sand, go with an orbital 18" x 24" square pad type.

My preferred method was chemical. Drape plastic over nearby shrubs, pressure wash the dirt off (quick), apply the chemical stripper, then pressure wash the stripper off. Either work at a time of day when you're in the shade, or stick to working small areas, so you can keep it wet. You don't want the stripper to dry on, or you have to re-wet and reapply.

I prefer the tinted transparent stains to the opaque or semi-transparent, so I've stripped that semi-stuff more than once. It's tough to get it 100% perfect with a single application of stripper, but you can get it looking pretty good with some work.

I got so tired of maintaining my old deck (13 years in that house), that I made "no deck" one of my only rules, when searching for a new house. Now we have flagstone patios, and I'm a happy man. We still do have a painted wood porch (mahogany), but it's covered, so it seems to hold up better than our old deck.

I'd try pressure washing with water to start.

I was told by someone years ago that if the stain is an oil based product, its more of a waste of time to try to remove it as the product "seeps" into the wood further than a water based product. It seems to have held true for all the instances I've seen.
As far as freshening up the appearance of green pressure treated decks, I use a scrub brush in a concentration of bleach and water.
The fact that the stain is peeling off is encouraging, though. Like Hog says, maybe you can get most of it with pressure washing?

I've never seen anyone sell or use an oil-based semi-transparent deck stain, around here. I didn't even know they still made such a thing.

I would pressure wash first then if it needs more blast it with walnut hulls.

Totally serious. Just go light with it. May require some light sanding after

Joful said:

I've never seen anyone sell or use an oil-based semi-transparent deck stain, around here. I didn't even know they still made such a thing.

Click to expand...

http://www.cabotstain.com/products/product/Semi-Transparent-Siding-and-Fence.html

I have pressure washed my deck and restained... depending on the nozzle used, it will strip to bare wood but can leave fibers.

A neighbor used an floor maintainer to scrub his deck surface before he refinished ... http://www.homedepot.com/c/floor_rental_equipment

Exactly the reason I never have stained our deck. Pressure treated, let it weather, never any work, just lots of pleasant time and tasty beverages watching the neighbor drip sweat trying to maintain his stained cedar deck.

i second the pressure washer. it worked well on my mahogany deck with california storm stain which was peeling after a year also. but be careful with the pressure washer, cedar is soft and if your not careful the washer will drill a hole in it. but it works faster than a sander and you'll have to give your deck a good week to dry before applying anything

i was told that i didn't put the storm stain on the right way and that was why it peeled so i did it again and it peeled again i'll never use that stuff again. penofin was what i was told to put on but i was afraid it would blacken. the same with a product that i forget the name some australian tongue oil but again i was afraid of it blackening. i like the color of the mahogany when it was new before stain but was told that there was nothing out there that would maintain that color.

I just put 4 gallons of Cabot Australian timber oil on my shed. It looks great, water is beading up great.
However, I was just informed by a reputable painter friend that by next summer I won't be able to tell that I did anything to it at all. It'll be gone and need to be done again.
Supposedly Cabot got bought by Valspar and cheaped out on their formulas to keep costs competitive in the box stores, combined with EPA restrictions, there's virtually no "oil" in the can.
They're now oil modified latex products which are water clean up. My painter swears that the only thing that'll hold up and work over time are solid color based products, followed by semi transparent, lastly are the "clear" sealers.
Wish I knew before I spent $42/gal on 4 gallons. Guess I'll find out next year if he was right.

The fact that it beads makes me suspicious. The oil is supposed to penetrate, not sit in top. I waited 5 months before putting the penofin on. It does darken the mahogany, but then anything would. As time passes I expect it will fade and I'll need to reapply.