Englander NC-30 owners.. What length splits?

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fish more. After 40 yrs of fishing i can visualize a 15 inch walleye in every length i cut without fail.

Ha.....just noticed you are in Wisconsin. I imagine the fishing is quite good there. Here in the eastern half of MA the good spots are far and few between and the people fishing to fishing spots ratio is way off.

The Wachusett reservoir is 2 minutes away from my house. My son is 2 and a half and next year once he has an attention span greater than the fish I am trying to catch I'll take him along. I'll just have to learn how to catch lake trout and landlocked salmon from the shore. No boats allowed.

To bring this back on topic.....I'll have to catch and stuff my first lake trout to use as a saw guide so that I can have proper length splits in my Englander 30, which in my opinion is 16"!
 
fish more. After 40 yrs of fishing i can visualize a 15 inch walleye in every length i cut without fail.
That's interesting.

I find it easy to "Eyeball" 16 inch cuts due to all of the carpentry work I do.
Studs and rafters = 16 inch centers. I really does help.


It would be easy for me to "Eyeball" a 10 inch cut also if need be. ;);lol
Think.
 
wow guess it never dawned on me theres parts of the country where lakes are a rarity. Hundreds of places to fish within 30 minutes of my front door. It's a way of life here and always has been. Never realized i was "lucky" til you said that.
 
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I hold onto the stick with my left hand while sawing. It's thin enough where it doesn't get in the way.

I just find a nice stick and measure it to be 16", if I lose it I make another. Doesn't everybody keep a measuring tape in their truck? It is thin also but I hold it in my trigger hand so that between cuts I can hang the saw by the handle.

I cut up just over a cord this last weekend and am finding that the bending down and measuring each cut, then standing back up and cutting the round, then bending down to measure the next one is hard on my back after awhile.

So, on its way to my house right now is a mingo marker for father's day. Yipee.
 
If you have a lot of log lengths to cut up it's often easier to pre-mark the cuts using a spray paint like orange landscape paint. It speeds up cutting and there is less stooping for measuring between cuts.
 
I with the 20 inch bar I've been running, If I work my way to the right as I go down a log, the distance from the rivets for the roller to the spikes gives me 17 inch. So, I just turn the saw for a second between each cut, leave the rivet at the last cut, and start my next cut where the spikes are. With some cuts crooked, or the log crooked, etc, that generally keeps things under 18 and over 16, which I agree is perfect for the 30.

My other saw is an 18 inch bar, and I would go from tip to spikes on that, doing the same.

pen
 
If you have a lot of log lengths to cut up it's often easier to pre-mark the cuts using a spray paint like orange landscape paint. It speeds up cutting and there is less stooping for measuring between cuts.

This is exactly what I do. I have a cheapy Harbor Freight 25ft tape that I used green line marking on to highlight the 16" marks. Hook it on the end and hit the green spots with paint. Crank up the saw and make chips.
 
Yes, it's convenient that the tape is already labeled with 16" stud spacing marks.
 
I am currently just eye balling 16-18" length and found out last year my nc30 is a different animal with different loads. Certain woods n/s stacking is ideal then some others tend to burn better e/a or a mix. Do not know why but I only got a 1/2 season with my nc30 but the test of -20 degrees came and she passed with flying colors!
 
There's no replacement for displacement.
 
I cut to 16 - 18, i also sell some firewood at times that is the reason for my lengths.
 
But
If you have a lot of log lengths to cut up it's often easier to pre-mark the cuts using a spray paint like orange landscape paint. It speeds up cutting and there is less stooping for measuring between cuts.

But then, you have to walk the length of each log, and where my logs get placed, the ground isn't so level in some places. The log has to be completely accessible as well. I used to use road marking paint, along with that same 16" stick, but somehow I transitioned to just the stick.
 
But

But then, you have to walk the length of each log, and where my logs get placed, the ground isn't so level in some places. The log has to be completely accessible as well. I used to use road marking paint, along with that same 16" stick, but somehow I transitioned to just the stick.

The point is - marking is better than not marking however you do it.
 
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Guys, just go buy a mingo marker. I cut the last 3 cords with one and it is freaking awesome. You walk along the log and this little device squirts a dot of paint each 16". If you can't walk along the log to do this then I question whether or not you should be cutting the log.
 
Cool tool! This should have a separate posting in the wood shed and gear rooms. The OP's question was answered quite a bit back.
 
Cool tool! This should have a separate posting in the wood shed and gear rooms. The OP's question was answered quite a bit back.

I got mine from Bailey's for like 30$. My logs are not straight but this tool has saved my back since I can stand upright and chop wood without having to bend down and measure. You need a sharp chain to do standing cuts since your dawgs are nowhere near the log. Your back will thank you.
 
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