Floor penetration. Is it Legal???

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
J

James04

Member
Oct 18, 2007
130
Eastern Ct
I have my stove on the first floor of my two story colonial. In an attempt to get more heat distribution to the upstairs. I would like to cut a vent in the ceiling near the stove. Is this legal and Kosher with the insurance industry? Would an automatic fire damper be required? What if I wanted to put a fan in it?

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/pa...=88707695125&gclid=CKyrttCssb8CFfHm7Aod3HEARA

Regards,
James
 
You have the right idea. A fusible link fire damper is usually required. Check with your local inspecting authority for regs in your area. If possible, place the vent so that it opens into a central hallway upstairs for the best heat distribution. Atlanta Supply also sells these dampers and nice floor registers and ceiling grilles to fit them. http://www.atlantasupply.com/

But before cutting holes, what is the current layout and what is stopping the heat from going upstairs?
 
begreen said:
You have the right idea. A fusible link fire damper is usually required. Check with your local inspecting authority for regs in your area. If possible, place the vent so that it opens into a central hallway upstairs for the best heat distribution. Atlanta Supply also sells these dampers and nice floor registers and ceiling grilles to fit them. http://www.atlantasupply.com/

But before cutting holes, what is the current layout and what is stopping the heat from going upstairs?
Click to expand...

Hi BeGreen
Is this what you are talking about?

Does this work with 6" ducting that can be purchased at Home Depot and the 6" InLine Fan?

http://www.atlantasupply.com/swscri...@&STOCK_NO=11CH06 &REQUEST_ID=CSTKDET
Stock #: 11CH06
Steel Fire Damper
Type C Hor. Spring Loaded
6" 11CH Fire Damper
Type C spring loaded fire damper for vertical or horizontal mounting. UL classified 1.5 hour rating. 165 degree fusible link. Square-to-round transition on each damper side (round take-off size is listed size of damper). Blades out of air stream. Galvanized steel construction, does not include sleeve. Installation instructions available by request!
upload_2014-7-6_18-50-36.png
 
No, that is for a 6" duct. Atlanta Supply has fusible link fire dampers in larger square and rectangular sizes and registers/grilles to match.
 
begreen said:
No, that is for a 6" duct. Atlanta Supply has fusible link fire dampers in larger square and rectangular sizes and registers/grilles to match.
Click to expand...

oh, I am a little confused not being into HVAC really. All I know is that Home Depot sells 4x10" floor registers and 6" ductwork that fit into a boot that hooks to the 4x10" floor regester.

What type or size of ductwork do you have in mind? What is the most common?
 
Begreen,

It is an open floor plan 2 story colonial with the stove centrally located on the first floor. I really don't know why I don't get more heat upstairs. The hallway that leads to the stairs is only 6 feet away from the stove then the foot of the stair is about 12 feet down the hall. So if you think if you typical colonial you come in the front door any you can either go upstairs or down the hall to the kitchen/dinning area where the stove is against the central wall. Will heat freely flow up a stairwell in an "air tight" house? Maybe the entery door at the foot of the stair is cold enough to stall the air from rising up the stair. I don't know I am just grasping at straws.. But what I do know is that if I don't get more even heat distribution upstairs before the twins are born. For the first time in the 8 years since I built the house. I will hear a clicking sound in the fall that turns on the boiler. I thought that cutting a hole and adding a fan would really equalize everything.

By the way what do I have to do to get email notifications? I have it turned on. But I never get the emails. What is the senders address? I will add it to my web mail contacts to see if that helps.

Regards,
James
 
Grainger sells a lot of fusible vents. Keep in mind sound travels once you add that hole sound will go up as well.
 
James04 said:
It is an open floor plan 2 story colonial with the stove centrally located on the first floor. I really don't know why I don't get more heat upstairs. The hallway that leads to the stairs is only 6 feet away from the stove then the foot of the stair is about 12 feet down the hall. So if you think if you typical colonial you come in the front door any you can either go upstairs or down the hall to the kitchen/dinning area where the stove is against the central wall. Will heat freely flow up a stairwell in an "air tight" house? Maybe the entery door at the foot of the stair is cold enough to stall the air from rising up the stair. I don't know I am just grasping at straws.. But what I do know is that if I don't get more even heat distribution upstairs before the twins are born. For the first time in the 8 years since I built the house. I will hear a clicking sound in the fall that turns on the boiler. I thought that cutting a hole and adding a fan would really equalize everything.
Click to expand...

Warm air will convect well within an air tight house if it has a free path. Is there a transom and a doorway between the stove and the main entry? That can block a lot of heat, especially if there are high ceilings. You can check this by measuring the temp near the ceiling at the doorway on both sides of the transom. If it is like 20 degrees hotter at the ceiling on one side than the other, there is the problem. If so, cutting in a transom vent can help solve the problem. Or try putting a simple table fan running on low speed on the floor in the entryway blowing toward the stove area. The cooler, displaced entry area air will be replaced with warm air from the stove room.

PS: Most babies are not all that fragile. It's a myth that they need a warm bedroom. Many Europeans keep their bedrooms cooler than we do, children's room included. My mom kept a window slightly open in our infant bedrooms all winter long. She was a firm believer in fresh air is healthier. It is better for their immune systems for them to get fresh air, get a little dirty and to nurse on mother's milk.
 
Last edited:
begreen , Is correct about the {door bedroom transom} or {hall way transom}, That drop really does effect heat transfer more then most would think, My dad installed thu the wall power vents in the 2 bedrooms, Dad used power duct booster fans 6" that were installed above the doors then the ceiling fans push it down into the rooms, They work great, He did this 20 years ago. I found some here cheap for those that don't have them. https://www.acwholesalers.com/Broan...aC6iRhC7_WQW9xL6z1iQHPfElq152Nl0oXBoCTavw_wcB If I had a hall way I'd put 2 side x side. Jay
 
Unfortunately there is a header over the hall entrance. Therefore it can not be cut as it is structural. The ceilings however are only 8'. I do use a fan in that hallway to blow the colder air tword the stove. This has made a big improvmet on the fist floor as far as not feeling dramatic temperature changes from one room to the next. Do those archway fans work? I was thinking about getting one of those. Is 27 watts a lot for a small fan?

http://www.smarthome.com/3008/Suncourt-RR100-EntreeAir-Door-Frame-Fan-White/p.aspx
 
Penetration is only legal if your floor is at least 18 years old ;lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Owen1508
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom
Back