1st wood stove ?s

I believe there are quite a few stoves that have approval. The Englander NC-13 or VL-17 are both less expensive than that, I'm pretty sure, and there are quite a few satisfied customers here. I don't know about sizing in that situation, but I'd think you'd need a stove that runs well on a shorter chimney....

Welcome. 6" vent is good. Can you locate it centrally in the 70 ft length? Middle 2/3 of MH will probably be nice and warm - 1/6 at each end may be chilly. Pics of floor plan will help.

Be careful using wood heat in a mobile home. They are very prone to freezing water lines if the central heat isn't used. All the drains and water lines are ran in the belly with the ductwork, they rely on heat from the ductwork to keep from freezing. Running the blower on the furnace at night will help, if its real cold run that furnace in intervals.

And at Lowes, the 13-NC is called Summers Heat NC13. Timber Ridge NC-13 is same stove - maybe at Mennards's? All the same quality stove from England's Stove Works.

Please be aware that the NC13 has a pretty hefty hearth requirement with a r-value of 2.0. You can do a forum search to find out how other members here built their own hearth. It's certainly doable but the materials will add to the price and you have to spend a few days getting everything together.
Another mobile home approved stove with ember protection only hearth and for $1K is the PE True North: http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces-2/truenorth/
You could also take a look at the small and medium Drolet stoves. Those are usually very affordable, mobile home approved and ember protection only. http://www.drolet.ca/en/products/wood/stoves

mopars89 said:

I was going to leave the furnace set at 60°f so it will come on if the house gets to cold.

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That's a good part of the issue. With a good stove the furnace will never come on, even at 60. Run that fan on real cold nights! It'll save you thousands in the long run!

Hmmm, True North looks like an easy breather; Manual says minimum 12' chimney.

Pay attention to what webby is saying.
I have thawed out frozen pipes for a few people over the years that did what you want to do.
Plus sometimes the water lines are not even in the heat runs.
Some ended up using heat tapes,others would let water drip when it was real cold out.
I have seen plenty of times when pipes froze without a wood stove going even.

mopars89 said:

My water lines are not original. They were upgraded to pex line before I moved in.

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Pex is great, but still freezes, it just won't burst. Letting the water drip will actually freeze your drain lines in a mobile home, because the drain lines are exposed underneath.

I had an Oslo in a 28x60 a few years back. It heated the entire house. Keep in mind how small that NC 13 or 17 is, its properly sized but it will be frustrating to get wood into. The 17 is so small you cant really even buy wood for it unless its custom cut and split. I'd go a little bigger to avoid the frustrations of a tiny firebox.

begreen said:

?? I thought the 13NC takes 18" and 17VL takes 16" splits.

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If it does its just barely. I've installed only 1 of each, the 13 isn't bad but that 17 is tiny! I can't imagine being able to get more than 3 pieces of wood in there unless it was toothpick sized. It's very frustrating at times, that's all.

begreen said:

THE 17VL is a room heater with a firebox similar to the Jotul 3CB's. Loaded up that little stove can put out the heat, just not for a long while. The 13NC is not a giant, but has a decent capacity. The TrueNorth TN19 is a good value stove for here too.

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Yep, I loved the 17 but it wouldn't burn long enough for my needs. I could only get 3 hours or so with well seasoned oak. I'm getting twice that with my 13 plus it'll burn safely at a higher temp. If you only want it for supplemental heat and have less than 1000 sq.ft I'd say got with the 17.