Pellet Stove pulling Outside air through Chimney Flue

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Bioflaw

New Member
Jul 21, 2014
1
MA
Hi Everyone,

I have searched the forums quite a bit and have a question regarding pulling outside air. I am hoping I can get some good answers here.

I installed a Englander 25-PI Pellet Stove insert last winter into my fireplace using a 3" stainless liner up to the top of my 13 x 13 Clay lined Chimney flue. I then fabricated a block off plate in the fireplace and put about 12" of roxul insulation on top of that. The place seals great and I get no cold backdraft from there at all.

I am noticing that this stove moves a lot of air and I have continuous cold drafts in my house pulling from the windows, doors etc. Now the stove heats excellent and has saved me a significant amount of money just over one winter. Always looking to improve I have the following question.

Could I run a cold air intake out the back of my stove, using say PVC and just run it up through the block off plate I made into the Flue cavity. Then at the top of the chimney plate screw in a PVC elbow? This way I don't have to mess with running a second liner the full length. I would imagine it would still pull air the same way. My only concern would be that it would reduce the temperature of the 3" exhaust liner having a blanket of cooler air around it?

Appreciate any input!

Thanks

Mike
 
I think that is a no no in the code world. I'm sure the code police will chime in on that. Other than that I have done something similar and not noticed much of a difference. The Quad insert is not what I would call very airtight around the intake side. I'm not sure how air tight your stove is but I would take a close look to see just how sealed the intake side is. You may find it will still be sucking house air even with a OAK. However, according to your manual for a freestanding stove it is mandatory. They are not real clear about the insert in the insert portion of the online manual.

"6. Outside Air is mandatory for proper safe operation."
 
OAK must be made on non-flammable materials, as there is always potential for hot gas to exit it (as in case of power failure).

I had swiliamson from PSS come out and put on his custom 2-story cap... floor 1 is the intake, floor2 is the exhaust, separated by a divider. Fresh air comes in below the exhaust. it was the most expensive route, but it's also the 'done right' way.
 
OAK must be made on non-flammable materials, as there is always potential for hot gas to exit it (as in case of power failure)..
+1
True it is a code issue, but also a safety issue. You can use flexable line from an auto parts store, like they use to have on air filters in the older days or exhaust flex pipe, Main thing is it should be non-flammable (or melting) material for the reasons briansol stated. You'll also want to make the run as short as possible.
 
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