Sharpen chain electrically???

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That timber stuff is way better than the HF model.

The HF depth stop is not solid either. All your motions need to be consistent the same to get same results. Can't limp wrist a few cutters then slam others they won't come out the same due to flex in machine.
 
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I modded my HF to take out the slop...not perfect but works fine for me.
 
Brought home a HF chain sharpener tonight. Did some mods (replaced washers in guide w/ thinner washers to hold the chain more snug and added shim in the clamp that holds tooth to be sharpened) seems to work good. Have a 16" chain, that was pretty far gone, that I sharpened for my 445 husk and took it out to a 28" piece of ash and cut right through no prob. but ran out of day light to see if it will keep an edge. I am no expert w/ a saw or sharpening chain but it does not look as though I ran the angle out too long as to dull quickly so I guess I will see tomorrow. Gonna try to make it out to fell a few smaller hedge trees(osage orange). If it does not hold up well the hedge will surely let me know. :).
I'd say not a bad investment for $30. thanks to all for the good info.
Still looking at some of the nicer grinders for when I buy that 562xp w/ chisel!!!::-)
See ifn maybe my saw dealer will hook me up w/ a nice 562 and an oregon 511 in a good deal sort of way. Hay a guy has got to have dreams.

But all in all the I think the harbor freight does the job for what I paid, and is much quicker on chains that would otherwise take a ton of time w/ a file.(Not to say that I didn't have a good amount of time invested in using the hf tool just not as much as I would have w/ a file.)

I think one of the keys to using el cheapo hf sharpener is to go slow. You can not take a big bite down you just slowly work the wheel up and down on the tooth and keep working around the chain until you have the teeth close to the same length.
 
You dont want to just pull any grinder down and eat half a tooth off at once. That heats the chain up too much you really want to take small bites till its past any damage.

Do what someone said and get a brand new chain and match your wheel up to its angle if you like the way new chains last/cut and then you can repete the angles on the new one.

Some folks dont like factory chain angles or sharpness and reg rind them before use.
 
I sharpen pretty much everything to the factory angles for Stihl RS / RSC = 30-60-10 degrees. The only exception is the pico chain for my T435.
 
The first number in your list (joful) is the only one you can manipulate on the HF grinder.
 
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I picked up a cheapo "Buffalo Tools" version on Amazon for $45. Works great. There is a bit of flex in the "arm" as you pull down on it, but I wouldn't modify it because I actually use that to my advantage. I can set up the chain stop where it just barely kisses the tooth on the way down, and then I sort of push the head a bit toward the tooth to do the actual grinding; removing as little material as possible. I may not end up with a precise "factory" angle, but I'm not exactly making furniture with this saw - I have plenty others for that purpose. I've only ever bought one extra chain for my saw; and I've sharpened them dozens of times now. I even went through a couple screws - the long way - with the chain I'm running now; still cuts just like new after 20 mins of sharpening.
 
20 mins of cutting its still sharp or it takes you 20 mins to sharpen your chain?o_O
 
I hope its like a 32" chain...thats a long time!
 
Low signal area had no idea it took it 3 times!!! And I dont see a delete post button on TT?
 
clemsonfor said:
Low signal area had no idea it took it 3 times!!! And I dont see a delete post button on TT?
Click to expand...

whutchotalkinbout Willis? (I gotz you covered;))
 
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clemsonfor said:
I hope its like a 32" chain...thats a long time!
Click to expand...

I dunno, I'm usually taking my time and doing this while sipping a beer and listening to the radio, but I'd say I'm probably not that far off 3 chains / hour, with setup, inspection, etc. Doesn't seem that slow to me, unless you're trying to make money at it.
 
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Maybe I take longer than I think? I dont time it and listen to the radio as well?
 
Yep, only money I'm looking to make at it, is the couple grand ill save on my winter gas bill.
 
Jags said:
For sure. With proper setup, a bench mount electric can be as minimalist as a hand file. My chains last for many many sharpening sessions and I haven't picked up a hand file in quite awhile.

I use a cheapo sharpener called "nick the grinder" (pre HF brand). The most important thing with these grinders is the tool that is running them.
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I agree. A good operator will not remove much more metal than a file unless you are "ham fisted" and insist on making the cutters turn red and then a pretty blue afterward.

BTW, I have switched from the vitrified wheels to the resinoid wheels Silvey uses. They don't heat the cutters up near as much.
 
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Firewood Bandit said:
I agree. A good operator will not remove much more metal than a file unless you are "ham fisted" and insist on making the cutters turn red and then a pretty blue afterward.

BTW, I have switched from the vitrified wheels to the resinoid wheels Silvey uses. They don't heat the cutters up near as much.
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Maybe you could go deeper into this wheel makeup!!
Whats the diff between what your talking about here.
 
EMB5530 said:
Maybe you could go deeper into this wheel makeup!!
Whats the diff between what your talking about here.
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The difference between vitrified and resinoid wheels is how the abrasives are bonded into the wheel. I can't explain this well other than to say IMHO the resinoid wheels are softer and wear faster and produce more dust. Vitrified wear very little, hold profile better but also heat up the cutters a whole lot more with the same pressure applied by the grinding wheel.
 
Firewood Bandit said:
The difference between vitrified and resinoid wheels is how the abrasives are bonded into the wheel. I can't explain this well other than to say IMHO the resinoid wheels are softer and wear faster and produce more dust. Vitrified wear very little, hold profile better but also heat up the cutters a whole lot more with the same pressure applied by the grinding wheel.
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Thank you. I never knew there were any differences.
 
I use cheapo Harbor Freight ($30) mainly because my hand filing is too inconsistent with asymmetrical results.

It is a piece of junk, plastic construction of the frame results in too much flex and loss of precision.

However, I've learned to work with it and it's extended chain life enough to pay for itself
 
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gerry100 said:
I use cheapo Harbor Freight ($30) mainly because my hand filing is too inconsistent with asymmetrical results.

It is a piece of junk, plastic construction of the frame results in too much flex and loss of precision.

However, I've learned to work with it and it's extended chain life enough to pay for itself
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The Tecomec clones can be had for $100-135 and they are pretty decent. This is the same as an Oregon 510.

The Oregon 511AX which has a much better vice is also made by Tecomec.
 
Firewood Bandit said:
The Tecomec clones can be had for $100-135 and they are pretty decent. This is the same as an Oregon 510.

The Oregon 511AX which has a much better vice is also made by Tecomec.
Click to expand...
Yeah, when I referred to my cheap grinder earlier, this is what I meant. I had no idea you could buy grinders with plastic frames for $30.
 
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The HF grinder is a CHEAP made unit but for the price of a chain($30) and a little extra spent time doing some home engineering and going a little slower at sharpening then what you could w/ a good unit(i'm guessing as I have never used a nice one but I am sure they are nowhere near as flimsy) it is nice b/c when you have a chain that has found 100 year old barb wire in an old hedge row you really don't want to bring it back w/ a hand file.
 
The HF grinder produces better results than I can by hand even after hand coming for years I still have a chain that cuts circles after a few fileings the grinder straightens that out.
 
Firewood Bandit said:
The Tecomec clones can be had for $100-135 and they are pretty decent. This is the same as an Oregon 510.

The Oregon 511AX which has a much better vice is also made by Tecomec.
Click to expand...


Yes but once you get good on the 511a there no real reason to use the vice. Its a lot faster to hit your stops, very light touch on the handle and move to the next one. Takes two hands but very quick to even knock out a 41 inch.
 
I have the northern clone to an Oregon bench grinder. It has worked fine for me for about 5 years. I actually have gotten better at hand filing and do mostly that until I need to get the angles straighted out or major repair from hitting metal or something. It is faster for me to run the file on the bar than to change a chain. Also, the electric - don't take too much off fast or it will heat up and ruin the temper on the cutter.
 
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