Insulate damper block plate or not...

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NHcpa

Minister of Fire
Feb 16, 2014
592
Honyock NH
My installer did not insulate above the damper block plate...should I take it out and add Roxul or forget about it? Pellet stove has uninsulated flex tube through interior 2 story chimney. thanks to all who reply.
 
I'm eager to hear comments, too, as I'm about to have an identical install: Accentra 52i in a two-story interior chimney. I would think uninsulated tube wouldn't be much to worry about since any lost heat would go to the masonry, then living space on the other side. How much have you burned since your install? A comparison after insulating the plate would be interesting.
 
Hi
A well fitted block off plate will be fine. An insulated block off plate improves very little .your flex liner will give off heat which will warm the trapped air within your chimney length and the whole system gets warm over time and your stove will work like a charm.
A well fitted block off plate is what's needed to create the DEAD air space up the entirety of your chimney
 
I just installed my 52i insert last weekend. I got mostly all of the material off the job at work. The damper plate material, Roxul, and fire proof caulking. I installed the outside air kit also.
So I have a 3" aluminum pipe for the OAK and the 4" stainless exhaust pipe. Above the block off damper plate I cut out a piece of Roxul to match the block off damper plate and cut out
the holes for the pipe and then used some high silcone heat silicone and glued it to the top of the block off damper. I also did the same at the top of the chimney with the Roxul under the
chimney cap. I then fire caulked around the bolck off plate and pipes, Then I used the high heat silicone around the pipe connections at the stove.
So back to the topic do you really need to do all of this stuff or not? I don't really know but from all of the info that I have got off this website which is great this is what I ended up doing.
To me I was doing it myself and wanted to do it once and do it right and not look back. Good Luck!!!!
 
Think about it. The plate blocks off the living space from the chimney. If it's not sealed completely it will leak heated air up the chimney from the living space. The insulation just helps seal the plate and holds in the heat. The wood chimney is capable of holding a wood fire temperature whether its pellet or firewood so insulation isn't necessary.
Ron
 
I too read all the threads before the install and with hindsight, question I should have done everything that Deercamp performed. Ouch, he even has oak installed. I just now wonder with the unit installed as is, was it worth it to add insulation. I was thinking more heat would be retained in the room, but perhaps the diff is negligible and more important to have the chimney properly sealed at both ends (it is).
 
I insulated mine because I use my chimney (airspace) for my OAK. I would have probably insulated it OAK or not. If your laying in the fireplace doing the block off plate might as well pack some roxul in there. Only takes a few extra mins and doesn't cost much. It helped me seal things up also because I have a fieldstone fireplace
 
Ct Paul you are just the guy to ask. I also have a fieldstone fireplace also. So the surround doesn't sit flush up against the fieldstone in all spots. So with all that I have done I don't
know if I really need to stuff some Roxul behind the surround or not. I will probably end up doing it seeing how I have gone this far.
 
The key is: Is the damper blocked off and completely airtight? If it is I see no problem. If it isn't heated air from the living space will find its way to the leak and go up the chimney space. Just like leaving a window open.
Ron
 
The key is: Is the damper blocked off and completely airtight? If it is I see no problem. If it isn't heated air from the living space will find its way to the leak and go up the chimney space. Just like leaving a window open.
Ron
It's sealed... the installers were VERY generous with the hi-temp silicone. house stunk for 2 days...
 
IIRC, Harman suggests to insulate above the plate. But if the plate is completely air tight you should be OK too. When I installed my insert I stuffed a couple batts of roxul in the flue and only tacked down my block off plate w/o sealant so I could service it easily if I ever had to. Even on the coldest of days when the stove was cold and out for cleaning, I didn't feel cold or any drafts of air coming in from the plate. That's even with a small air-gap at the top of my flue to feed air in for the OAK.
 
IIRC, Harman suggests to insulate above the plate. But if the plate is completely air tight you should be OK too. When I installed my insert I stuffed a couple batts of roxul in the flue and only tacked down my block off plate w/o sealant so I could service it easily if I ever had to. Even on the coldest of days when the stove was cold and out for cleaning, I didn't feel cold or any drafts of air coming in from the plate. That's even with a small air-gap at the top of my flue to feed air in for the OAK.
IIRC, Harman suggests to insulate above the plate. But if the plate is completely air tight you should be OK too. When I installed my insert I stuffed a couple batts of roxul in the flue and only tacked down my block off plate w/o sealant so I could service it easily if I ever had to. Even on the coldest of days when the stove was cold and out for cleaning, I didn't feel cold or any drafts of air coming in from the plate. That's even with a small air-gap at the top of my flue to feed air in for the OAK.
How far up did you go with the oak? I'm reading where the chimney even if capped, is sufficient for air. Some drill holes and some get the caps vented.
 
How far up did you go with the oak? I'm reading where the chimney even if capped, is sufficient for air. Some drill holes and some get the caps vented.

I went up about 10', which is about half way up my chimney. And yes it's acceptable to let fresh air in from the top of the flashing via vent holes, as long as its rain and critter proof. Harman sells a flashing extension that does just that or you can DIY.
 
Deer camp if you sealed up the block off plate you shouldn't need to do anything else. I'm have to pull my stove out and give it a good cleaning before the season. I'm considering pulling some Roxul behind the surround. I'm hoping to deaden the sound from the stove.
Here's a link to my install https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/the-oak-install-begins.103023/ Sounds like you did almost the same thing.
 
Anyone know where you can buy a small quantity of roxul / mineral wool? Small being the key word, I'm only looking for enough to insulate the area where my pellet flue and OAK enter my 8" stainless fireplace flue; 1 cubic foot would be more than enough. I've been to Lowes and HD and they only sell it in lifetime supply size.
 
Anyone know where you can buy a small quantity of roxul / mineral wool? Small being the key word, I'm only looking for enough to insulate the area where my pellet flue and OAK enter my 8" stainless fireplace flue; 1 cubic foot would be more than enough. I've been to Lowes and HD and they only sell it in lifetime supply size.

Try a stove shop. They may be willing to sell you a small amount from their bulk stock.
 
I have a ton of it that I could give you for free. To bad that you live in Conn. If you happen to be comming to Mass anytime it's all yours.
 
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