Fighting with paint. Stove bright

Dustin · Aug 20, 2014

Spent most of yesterday fighting with painting my 25pdvc.

I can't to make it look even using stove bright. Two cans and many coats and it still has the "spray painted" lines look. It's driving me insane. Am I being too OCD?

Also, I shook the can for a long long time, pointed it where I wanted to start and hit go. The can sputtered and threw a nice spot of I don't know what. Well, when I went back over this spot later in the process it bubbled, then, I tried to clean that spot in an effort to fix it and had the paint come off in a rubber like fashion all the way to bare metal. Now, I have a nice nasty owie right on the top of the stove.

Am I doomed? I have painted over that area trying to blend it with not so good results. I tried sanding a larger area near that and still can't make it blend. Am I doomed to strip all of the paint and re paint to make this look right?

Sometimes, I just can't win..

DAKSY · Aug 20, 2014

You don't say what color you're using, but if it's Satin Black 1990, BTDT. I've had to strip items COMPLETELY & start from scratch.
You DID learn a lesson tho. Shake the can & aim it at a piece of cardboard or outside in the air first - BEFORE you aim it at what you intend to paint. Also, hold the can upside down when you're done & depress the nozzle til it sprays clear. That way the next time you'll be sure it works. FWIW, I try to use Metallic Black 6309 on my stoves. It really blends well when you use it as a touch-up.

Dustin · Aug 21, 2014

Yessir, it was the satin black. I'm wondering now, if I use the metallic if it will blend alright and cover the yucks. Or, if I need to strip the entire thing

Mt Bob · Aug 21, 2014

Most hi temp paint I am familiar with will cure in 24 hrs,stove bright takes 5 days.Then you have to set the paint with heat.All I have used(never used stove bright) there is a stepped procedure,generally a quick really hot fire is a no no.Also never spray most paints around a running stove,very dangerous.You should be able to scuff and repaint without "setting" the paint.It may be easier to dohttp://forrestpaint. the whole panel that has the problem,much like repairing a car. http://forrestpaint.com/stove-bright/stove-bright-user-guide/

Mt Bob · Aug 21, 2014

chickenman said:
5 day drying, that is a pain.
We always touch up our stoves hot and running, never had any issue but we are in a well ventilated area. Our paint recommends heat curing, no different to a car oven when you think about it. Very hard to scuff half cured paint without it balling up. Much better to wait for it to dry. If you cant run the stove then try and get the damp panel in the sun to dry. Bob is right about doing the whole panel.

My term setting the paint is the same as curing the paint.Just because it is dry does not mean it is "set"(with hi temp).Most paint you can scuff/lightly sand/repaint over within 12 hrs,before the set.You probably have different chemical standards over there,which is why I jumped in,as i used to to quite a bit of auto painting(why I have no brain cells left!).You might be thinking of the old days when they "baked" the enamel(60's).Not going to go further except be careful because you are on the net,and telling someone to do something(spray on an operating stove) is very bad,not everyone has common sense.Bob

Search

Search

Fighting with paint. Stove bright

Dustin

Minister of Fire

DAKSY

Full Time RVer

Dustin

Minister of Fire

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire

Mt Bob

Minister of Fire

Similar threads