Chain Sharpening

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Berner

Feeling the Heat
Feb 1, 2012
388
Eastern, MA
Any of you guys use this to sharpen your chainsaw blades in the field?

http://powersharp.com/powersharp_video.asp

If you don't like to click links (I don't either) google "Oregon Powersharp". Then just click your region.

Pretty sad that I"m just getting around to sharpening my own blades but I feel as if it is a necessary step. Currently I send them to a guy down the street. When I get them back I absolutely love the way they cut which reminds me that I should be doing this more often.

Is the powersharp a good first step or is it the lazy mans way out?

Thanks for your help.
 
Powersharp is the lazy mans way out IMO and you must use their chain & stone. It has a special designated chain.

If it's your 445 you're sharpening, find out what chain you have and buy the files/guides to learn yourself.
 
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Is the powersharp a good first step or is it the lazy mans way out?

You have to use their bar and chain and sharpener, and it works well if you only ever need to cut a little wood. If you have a lot to buck up, you would do well to learn yourself.

I really like the husky roller guide. Good results, easy to use, and relatively inexpensive.
 
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A professional logging instructor told me it works pretty well, but it's not clear to me how it handles the rakers. I kind of suspect it works less well as the chain gets worn down, but I don't really know.

Like Clarkbug, I really like the Husky roller guides.
 
Yes I figured it looked too easy to be effective. Dumb question but how do I figure out what kind of chains I have? I believe I got two with the saw and bought another one that was not necessarily the same. Of course I discarded the box that had all the important info on it.

If it helps it has a number 25 on top of the teeth and a number 30 on the bottom.

The other chain has a 37 on bottom but no number on top.

Will the husqvarna file guide work on different chains?
 
Does the bar have a 9 digit number stamped on the side?

My guess is it's a .325 pitch, .050 gauge. I doubt they put a 3/8" pitch on your Husqvarna 445.

505 69 81-94 is the kit. use a 3/16" file.
 
Will the husqvarna file guide work on different chains?

There are several kits, depending on chain type -- 3/8 standard, 3/8 low profile, .325 standard, .325 narrow kerf, etc.
 
There should be a bunch of information stamped into the back end of the bar that will indicate the size chain it uses. You may have to take the bar off of the saw to see it all. Post the numbers you see there, or just a good pic, and we can decode it for you.
 
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What size bar? Where did you buy it?
Most probably as already stated you have a .325 standard but who knows what you may have purchased for a replacement.
This is probably what I'm guessing you have on your saw as stock chain.
Husqvarna 531300437 16-Inch H30-66 (95VP) Pixel Saw Chain, .325-Inch by .050-Inch


 
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An oregon chain has a line on it showing you the angle to file. You can sharpen a chain better an faster with a hand file. The problem is most people don't know when to throw the file away and use a new one.
 
An oregon chain has a line on it showing you the angle to file. You can sharpen a chain better an faster with a hand file. The problem is most people don't know when to throw the file away and use a new one.

All true - but there's more to chain filing than filing with the angle marker, like proper chain tension, and keeping the file level, and filing rakers. . .
 
and filing rakers
So much the rakers! There's a hardware store that sharpens my chains for $4.50 each, and the cutters are razor sharp but they never touch the rakers. Sharpest knife in the world won't cut anything when it's covered up with a piece of metal. I end up doing those with a guide plate and a dremel tool (I'm lazy), and they cut like new again. I really ought to learn how to do the whole thing myself and be done with it...
 
I use Stihl chains as they are super hard (Hardest to sharpen as well).

Just use the correct round file and a clip on roller gauge. Tighten the chain up beforehand.

Push the file from the tip 5 times. Try to be parallel with the line. Never had a problem. Sometimes I file the rakers but to much will stall the chain out. It's faster to get a nice steady high RPM straight cut than having to fight a biting monster.

Its a good idea to self sharpen. Cutting dirty downed wood will smooth the chain out in no time.
 
Yes I figured it looked too easy to be effective. Dumb question but how do I figure out what kind of chains I have? I believe I got two with the saw and bought another one that was not necessarily the same. Of course I discarded the box that had all the important info on it.

If it helps it has a number 25 on top of the teeth and a number 30 on the bottom.

The other chain has a 37 on bottom but no number on top.

Will the husqvarna file guide work on different chains?


It's in the manual for the saw. But if it's not clear go to a dealer and they will get you the right chain and the correct file/guide. Once you understand the chain spec you should be able to buy other replacement chains. Stihi chains from all accounts are one of the best out there. So I haven't used anything but the stock chain on my saw.

After 10 years of replacing chains when they got dull, I got a file with a guide, and watched all the sharpening video's on you tube ( some are better than others). It's so easy. Just keep the file level. The guide shows you the correct angle. 3 strokes on each cutter,10 minutes it's like new. My chain type is sharpened with a round file, I don't recall the diameter, but make sure you are using the correct file and guide for your chain. Recently I hit a rock, I thought no problem I'll hit it with the file. No good, I guess there's a difference between normal ware and destroyed chain.
 
Agreed, when I rock a chain it needs to go in the electric sharpener. Otherwise I have been trying to perfect my hand filing techniques
 
It's possible to fix a rocked chain with a file; it's just tedious because you have to take off so much metal to get back to the undamaged part of the teeth, and even if only a couple of teeth are damaged you have to take them ALL back the same amount. A dozen strokes each on seventy or more teeth can try one's attention span.
 
image.jpg image.jpg

Sorry guys it has been a tough week but finally got out to snap a picture of the bar and chain info. What do you think? Would the stock file guide from husqvarna work?


There should be a bunch of information stamped into the back end of the bar that will indicate the size chain it uses. You may have to take the bar off of the saw to see it all. Post the numbers you see there, or just a good pic, and we can decode it for you.

.
 
Would the stock file guide from husqvarna work?

Careful, there's no such thing as "the stock file guide." There are different sorts of chain, and there are different guides to match.

That is 0.325"-pitch "pixel" or narrow-kerf bar. Assuming the chain is correctly matched to the bar, this should be the right guide.
 
.325 pitch, .050 gauge, 66 drive links (DL), narrow kerf (NK) bar

The pitch alone determines the file size you need to use. The pitch and chain brand (mfg.) is what determines the particular file guide you should use. Can you get away with using other brands of file guide? Yes, but many times it leads to trouble.

If you want a different chain, three things must match your bar: pitch, gauge, and DL. Yes, you can run .325 standard kerf chain in an NK bar. In fact, I prefer to run Stihl RS (standard kerf, full chisel, non safety chain) on my Husqvarna 16" NK bar.

You can not run NK chain on a standard kerf bar.
 
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Careful, there's no such thing as "the stock file guide." There are different sorts of chain, and there are different guides to match.

That is 0.325"-pitch "pixel" or narrow-kerf bar. Assuming the chain is correctly matched to the bar, this should be the right guide.

Is there anyway to tell that the chains are the correct fit for the bar. I am sure the stock chain is the proper fit. But I bought another one that the sales rep picked out for me. Not that I'm not trustworthy just more trustworthy of the knowledgable hearth.com folks.
 
The package should have the same information as whats on your bar, and probably says "pixel" if its narrow kerf. Post a pic of the chain in the box and we can let you know.
 
If you don't have the packaging, you could look closely at both sides of the chain, including the drive links that you can see if you pull it off of the bar, to find some identifying markings. There might be a brand name, and different numbers or letters on various parts of the chain, that could give us a clue.
 
If you don't have the packaging, you could look closely at both sides of the chain, including the drive links that you can see if you pull it off of the bar, to find some identifying markings. There might be a brand name, and different numbers or letters on various parts of the chain, that could give us a clue.

Ok I've taken the chains off and examined both. I also found the box that I believe is the second chain I bought.

Both chains

image.jpg


Top chain. Engraved with 30 and 25image.jpg


Chain box. image.jpg

Back of chain box. image.jpg



The top chain has a 30 and 25 engraved on it. I assume this 30 relates to the box (H30)?

The bottom chain only has a number 37 engraved on it. Maybe that is the H37 that is listed on the back of the H30 box?

The ultimate goal is to get a file kit that will fit these chains. Would the kit mentioned above (505698190) work? Or do these two chains need two different files kits?
 
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