Question for WS Fireview Owners

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NewStoveGuy

New Member
Jul 11, 2014
48
The South
Any of you folks ever measured the temps underneath your stove (with the heat shield installed)?

Given my location in the Upper South, I won't be able to find out for myself as we won't be burning in the newly installed stove for at least another month or two.

I've been wondering how hot it gets down there, given that that's where you're supposed to store the door handle extension.
 
Welcome aboard - NewStoveGuy,

As for the temps under the stove I do not have any tips for you but regarding the handle extension I think I used it once. I prefer to use my gloves and sometime a poker for adjusting the air controls on the rear of the stove. I found that the handle just got in the way as gloves would be used most of the time any way.

All the Best to you with the new stove , enjoy the soft heat.

Any pictures of that new install ? Hows that wood supply lookin ?
 
I put some pics in this thread. Sorry that sometimes they show up sideways, I can't figure that out.

Have got decently far along on the wood plan given that I started in late July. I figure I'll need 2.5 - 3 cords. Thus far have accumulated split and stacked:

.75 cord under 20%
1.5 cord @ 23% average (hoping this will get down to 20% by Nov)
1.25 cord @ ~35% average (for next year)

+.5 cord @ ~25% average TBD in a couple of weeks

I'm $300 and several hours of sweat equity out of pocket for that, but managed to also lay up all the kindling & bark I'll need to start fires in the process.
Looking into supplementing with pre-treated railroad tie ends @ $25/ton (u-haul).
If I need to will buy 1 cord of kiln dried when it becomes available to residential buyers in my area next month but trying to avoid this at $300/cord delivered.
 
Any of you folks ever measured the temps underneath your stove (with the heat shield installed)? Given my location in the Upper South, I won't be able to find out for myself as we won't be burning in the newly installed stove for at least another month or two. I've been wondering how hot it gets down there, given that that's where you're supposed to store the door handle extension.
Doesn't get very hot under there. I don't use the handle storage, just lay the handle on the hearth, close to the door. I use it more for adjusting the air control than for the door. Door is usually pretty cool when it's time to reload, but the air lever is hot when you're getting the stove up to temp and cutting the air several times as you go.
Looking into supplementing with pre-treated railroad tie ends @ $25/ton (u-haul).
If I need to will buy 1 cord of kiln dried when it becomes available to residential buyers in my area next month but trying to avoid this at $300/cord delivered.
What are the RR tie ends "pre-treated" with? You shouldn't burn anything but natural wood in a cat stove; No colored newsprint, cardboard, treated wood, etc. You can download the manual, which goes into more detail, from their site. I don't even like to burn Pine, but it won't damage the cat. I would check with Woodstock before burning those ties...
Sorry that sometimes they show up sideways, I can't figure that out.
There is something about loading pics from a phone. Might be able to search, or find something in a sticky...
 
Thanks Woody,

Pre-treated railroad tie ends means before they're soaked in creosote &/or tar. Think they're just oak at that point, that and splitability are what I'm "looking into. "
 
pre-treated railroad tie ends @ $25/ton

These should serve you well , I use block ends similar to your for my stacks help stabilize them.

It sounds like your well on your way.

As for your original question about the temps underneath & the handle, I would think we would hear from Backwood's Savage anytime. Where are you Backwoods ?
 

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Any of you folks ever measured the temps underneath your stove (with the heat shield installed)?

Given my location in the Upper South, I won't be able to find out for myself as we won't be burning in the newly installed stove for at least another month or two.

I've been wondering how hot it gets down there, given that that's where you're supposed to store the door handle extension.

This is taken from the Fireview manual. http://woodstocksoapstone.net/pages/manuals/fv/fvoperationmanual.pdf
Screen Shot 2014-08-31 at 6.30.56 PM.png
 
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Pre-treated railroad tie ends means before they're soaked in creosote &/or tar. Think they're just oak at that point, that and splitability are what I'm "looking into. "
OK, great! :cool: I think those would split easy but you may not even have to split them down much; The Fireview will munch on some pretty big chunks. As long as you've got a stash of starter wood, you should be all set.
 
These should serve you well , I use block ends similar to your for my stacks help stabilize them.

It sounds like your well on your way.

As for your original question about the temps underneath & the handle, I would think we would hear from Backwood's Savage anytime. Where are you Backwoods ?

Now that's a professional looking stack. Mine are to embarrassingly amateurish to photograph. The wife does love the homesteading look though, with all the wood stacks and the chicken flock mining them for bugs.
 
never had any trouble with the stove pad or "fall away" handle getting hot through many years of 24/7 burning through the winter months, and in agreement with previous poster rarely used the handle anyway to open door-usually used stove gloves to open and stoke, good luck, they're nifty stoves!
 
Like others I don't use the handle. Instead I use gloves and a poker. What area are you in. I am in upper central NC and I am only pushing two cord a year and half is soft wood.
 
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OK, great! :cool: I think those would split easy but you may not even have to split them down much; The Fireview will munch on some pretty big chunks. As long as you've got a stash of starter wood, you should be all set.

I hope so on the splitting - as I'm splitting the old-fashioned way, with a maul.
 
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