FW3000 or Timberwolf 2200

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They are made in quebec.. Be careful, we are a nation...like Scotland :)


lol don't I know it , had a call once from a fellow up in Quebec , I asked where he was located (product knowledge call, presale) guy said Quebec, I said "ohh ok up in Canada" , he said "NO, not Canada, Quebec!" I said ohh kay so you are way up north then... ;lol
 
It was recommended to me by the installer back when I knew nothing about stoves ( I still know nothing but just pretend I know some..). I like their matrix stove for a more modern look, reminds me of the Chinook if u want a cat.
 
I have been here for nearly 8 years. Love the liberal attitude but hate the separatism tirades. However, the last provincial election ( called by the separatist party who was sure to win a majority) got cleaned out.

There's a big sign near Quebec City that says " welcome to our nations capital" . I was like " I didn't know we were in Ottawa!"
 
Don't have the constant cold of Newfoundland here, but -17C is the same here as there when it happens here and the 30-NC (aka 50-TNC30) keeps this so-so insulated 2,500 sq. ft. two story barn warm. And I do not do getting up at night to reload wood stoves or sleep under more than a sheet most of the winter. If the place gets down to 68 F, I screwed up.

But then I did remove the blue plastic. Eight seasons ago. Maybe that helped.
 
I see a lot of the stoves are either over width or over depth. What are the differences that you see burning one vs the other?


mostly loading, many stoves are built to load a certain way either east west (shallower box) or north south (deeper box) the east west loaders are generally going to give longer burns with a bit lower outputs , (as the wood lasts longer) the opposite for N/S loaders.

most big stoves will allow loading either way so you load N/S for hotter fires and E/W for longer gentler fires
 
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Width ( aka east- west) lets u look at the length of a log. Depth (aka north-south) is when you put the logs in and look at the end. I find north south much easier to load and it doesn't risk log rollouts when opening the door.
 
Don't have the constant cold of Newfoundland here, but -17C is the same here as there when it happens here and the 30-NC (aka 50-TNC30) keeps this so-so insulated 2,500 sq. ft. two story barn warm. And I do not do getting up at night to reload wood stoves or sleep under more than a sheet most of the winter. If the place gets down to 68 F, I screwed up.

But then I did remove the blue plastic. Eight seasons ago. Maybe that helped.
Lol
 
most E/W stoves are made with a lowered firebox, (meaning there is a drop off to the bricks after passing the door (usually an inch to an inch and a half or so. this helps in keeping the wood from rolling out thogh rollouts are rare if wood is of proper length.

ive been playing with foldover andirons to help with that but haven't been able to come up with a method that makes for easy flip down flip up that can withstand the heat long term. seems that it gets pretty hot inside a woodstove forebox
 
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Mine has a drop off but I have still managed a rollout.

Another piece of advice mark: buy some welding gloves.... They save forearms !


yep, its a good investment ad cheap (I have a set from work left over from when I was running wood, with a north south loader at that , was still nice to hot reload and not worry about keeping my hands and arms away from the doorframe
 
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I have welding gloves I do a lot of small engine work. Carpenter work though I can't stand so putting in the chimney may involve a few choice words.


measure twice , cut once (especially if you hate carpenter work, as not doing so will generate still more carpentry work)

remember, the life you save may be you're sawzall ;)
 
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When I go outside through the wall what is the best distance from the ceiling to cut the hole? Should it be cut for the double wall or single wall? I have regular 8 ft ceilings
 
Measure twice, cut once and hammer to fit.
 
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