Looking for a backup heat or emergency heat source.

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Seasoned Oak

Minister of Fire
Oct 17, 2008
7,215
Eastern Central PA
Im looking into some kind of backup heat source. For heating season Vacations which can last a week or more. I know an electric water furnace would work as i have hot water baseboard heat. Problem is those things are about 2K. Seems like overkill. Im wondering if a good old domestic hot water heater with its own water pump would do the job as i only want to heat the house to 50deg or so. Any ideas would be helpful.
 
I got my backup electric boiler for $400. Two years old, with a circ pump. It's an 18kw, more than I need.

Last time I looked there on Kijiji a month or so, I saw a half dozen in my area - people are swapping all kinds of heating system goodies out for mini-splits. Thinking you should be able to find something nice, used, for a good price?
 
Im wondering if i can use my already installed water heater with a few valves and pumps attached as no will be home to need hot water anyway. The storage capacity would overcome the small BTU output to some extent.
 
Id trust a electric boiler a lot more then a electric hot water heater with circulation pumps hooked up to it.

The smallest electric boiler is $1229 here:

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Argo-Electric-Boilers-1586000

Id also be concerned depending on how much baseboard you have your temps may not even get high enough once you cool down the storage tank to radiate heat in some rooms. Sending 100 degree water around will give you very little heat in traditional baseboard.
 
Id trust a electric boiler a lot more then a electric hot water heater with circulation pumps hooked up to it.

The smallest electric boiler is $1229 here:

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Argo-Electric-Boilers-1586000

Id also be concerned depending on how much baseboard you have your temps may not even get high enough once you cool down the storage tank to radiate heat in some rooms. Sending 100 degree water around will give you very little heat in traditional baseboard.
THats pretty steep for just 20000 BTUs. Id like to keep the place only about 50 Deg when im not here. I do have a spare oil furnace i could use as a backup but not sure i want to hook that into the system for only occasional use. But it would be my most cost effective option.
 
In the past i just would pay someone to take care of my solid fuel heating system while i was away. Or just travel in warmer months ,but it would be nice to get away during winter once in awhile.
 
In the past i just would pay someone to take care of my solid fuel heating system while i was away. Or just travel in warmer months ,but it would be nice to get away during winter once in awhile.


Sure a tank type DHW could be be used. Most have 4500W ellements in them X 3.41 = 15, 345 BTU per hour. On a 30 amp breaker you could upgrade to a 6000W element for 20,460 BTU/ hr.

What is the heatload for your home? This may or may not be enough to keep you safe.

You could also wire both elements to breakers, add the correct reset control. But you need two separate 30A -240V circuits to do it, Gets you to 40,000 BTU/hr with 6KW elements.
 
THats pretty steep for just 20000 BTUs. Id like to keep the place only about 50 Deg when im not here. I do have a spare oil furnace i could use as a backup but not sure i want to hook that into the system for only occasional use. But it would be my most cost effective option.

It is only $130 more for 40K btu unit. They have good reviews I considered one before we put in our geothermal system. Our oil system was on its last leg and needed heat if I went out of town.
 
Go with a ductless hp. get your heat and ac. Plus be a bonus on shoulder seasons.
 
Go with a ductless hp. get your heat and ac. Plus be a bonus on shoulder seasons.
I was thinking exactly that. Some of the new ones are up to 27 SEER. And operate down to -5 degrees. Very very efficient.
 
Sure a tank type DHW could be be used. Most have 4500W ellements in them X 3.41 = 15, 345 BTU per hour. On a 30 amp breaker you could upgrade to a 6000W element for 20,460 BTU/ hr.

What is the heatload for your home? This may or may not be enough to keep you safe.

You could also wire both elements to breakers, add the correct reset control. But you need two separate 30A -240V circuits to do it, Gets you to 40,000 BTU/hr with 6KW elements.
Probably easier to just hook up a second DWH and run both or a larger 80 gallon one. Which could be drained when not in use. But a good idea none the less. Heatload is pretty high, but the fact that i only want to achieve 50 Deg(or even 45) in the 2 and 3rd floor and the finished basement is 80% underground should make it possible.
 
you might consider a millivolt direct vent LP space heater. Mounts on the wall, vents through the wall, requires no electricity, has its own integral thermostat. Good back up option.
The problem with LP is its more expensive than electric. Unless you have a huge tank the YOU own, 1 million BTUs of LP could cost you $60 or more. Electric resistance which is the most costly type of electric heat is only in the low 30s Per Mbtus. I was shocked when i ran the #s for those Gas grill tank propane heaters(that i use on jobsites) Plug in electric heaters would be half the cost. Iv narrowed my choices down to some type of electric or an oil boiler which i have a good spare one. ANother good choice ,A mini split, would not work too well with 3 floors to worry about in this particular case.
 
Mini splits can have many heads on 1 condenser, The heads are pretty cheap.
 
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