exploring options (through ceiling): Can I offset pipe to miss the roof peak?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

777funk

Member
Sep 12, 2014
126
MO
I had a nice easy place to go straight up and out but the rest of the family keeps giving location suggestions that put the chimney coming out at non ideal places... ahhhh! But considering everyone's ideas in this through ceiling install.

Anyways, where they suggest it sits, the back side of the pipe would hit the peak of the roof dead on. If I could move it towards the front of the stove by 1' or 1.5' tops that'd move the chimney down the slope and I'd be good to go.

So
1. is this a safe or good idea
2. if it's ok, where best to put the elbows (chimney or stove pipe (ceiling or stove side))

One other thing I've thought of is that this stove has the exhaust port toward the rear of the top panel. I may someday buy a stove more forward exhaust. So it may be beneficial to offset in the room for later upgrades.

Curious what the thoughts are here.
 
Our flue was setup for the Castine. When I switched to the T6 I had to put a 7" offset in. I did this in the stove pipe. You can use 45s in the stove pipe or 15 or 30 degree elbows in the attic if there's room. It is safe as long as clearances are honored and the elbows are secured per mfg directions. My preference would be to do this in the attic if possible. The angles are softer that way and the stove room visual is better.

I recommend you install the stove with more than the minimum clearances. That will provide better protection and it will give you some wiggle room in case you change the stove in the future. What stove is going in?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Swedishchef
It's a Country Flame R6 Cat Stove. Looks like a pretty well made stove.

The tag on the back says the distances allowed and has the UL tag. It says 3" from back wall with double wall pipe. I'll probably do more like 5".

Question there, is that from the back of the stove or the furthest part (in this case the fan motor housing)?
 
The rear clearances are generally from the stove itself. Does it have a rear heat shield? To get this close many stoves require an additional heat shield, some have it already installed.
 
It's got a factory heat shield surrounding the stove (fan blows through it). I'll probably go 5" from the furthest rear point and call it good.

Just finished wire wheeling and painting this thing. Looks a lot better. I used Rust Oleum High Temp 1200F Barbque/Wood Stove paint and it came out a little bit stripey. I don't recommend that stuff. I spray paint for a living (with a gun) and never would have had something like this with a good nozzle and spray pattern. The narrow 2" fan makes it near impossible to avoid the stripes even with 50% overlaps. Don't recommend that stuff.
 

Attachments

  • 7501022.jpg
    7501022.jpg
    8.9 KB · Views: 196
Last edited:
Ya, that stuff is crap! Get a can of Stove Bright and repaint it. You won't regret it!
 
I started a new thread since this may be a common question, but where do you find that stuff?
 
I feel your pain, really glad I ended up with a straight run and a happy wife. Most likely you will need some kind of box shaped heat shield with a round through pipe to get through your ceiling (and between the ceiling joists) into the attic and a similar device to get from the attic through the roof (and between two rafters) to outdoors.

What I did with mine was cut a piece of cardboard the same size as the top of the stove. I drew on the flue collar with black sharpie. Set that in the hearth area with a stove sized box under it and said "If I put the stove right _here_ the chimney install will be $2200 and we'll have a straight run all the way through the roof that I can keep clean easily so the house doesn't burn down. I did draw the door and legs on the box under the full scale stove top.

If I put the stove _here_ the install will be $2550 because of the extra elbows and the chimney will be harder to keep clean. Your mileage may vary of course, but putting a price both monetary and increased maintenance made the compromise easier for my wife to swallow. She moved that cardboard box probably fifty times before she decided it was worth saving the $350. Glad I wasn't moving a 400# stove back and forth two inches.

I was able to center mine in a corner on a diagonal hearth so the aesthetics aren't too bad and I have plenty of clearance to put in a bigger stove later.

Good luck.
 
I think the square boxes ypou pipe runs through that attach to your ceiling joists and roof rafters are called radiation shields - as in heat radiation, not nuclear. Strongly encourage you to get firm dimension on your shields before you build your hearth.
 
Ya, that stuff is crap! Get a can of Stove Bright and repaint it. You won't regret it!
If you do I think the old paint must be stripped off first. Stove Brite is acetone based and will act as a solvent for several other paints.
I think the square boxes ypou pipe runs through that attach to your ceiling joists and roof rafters are called radiation shields - as in heat radiation, not nuclear. Strongly encourage you to get firm dimension on your shields before you build your hearth.

The box that attaches to the ceiling joists is where one transitions from stove pipe to chimney pipe. It's called the ceiling support box.
 
I think the square boxes ypou pipe runs through that attach to your ceiling joists and roof rafters are called radiation shields - as in heat radiation, not nuclear. Strongly encourage you to get firm dimension on your shields before you build your hearth.
The box that attaches to the ceiling joists is where one transitions from stove pipe to chimney pipe. It's called the ceiling support box.

Yes and the ones above are insulation sheilds
 
If you do I think the old paint must be stripped off first. Stove Brite is acetone based and will act as a solvent for several other paints.


The box that attaches to the ceiling joists is where one transitions from stove pipe to chimney pipe. It's called the ceiling support box.
I know you had an issue with this at some point. I've re-painted a few dozen stoves I'd say, and I've never had any issues with adhesion. I know a few of them were painted with rustoleom.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.