FISHER identification please

Congrats on the find !! Goldilocks

Check out the first post of this thread; https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/everything-fisher.48309/

The manual is here;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-stove-manuals-us.121743/

Notice in the manual, if you're installing in a conventional built home you must raise the base plate off the floor at least an inch for indoor air to get into the stove up through the pedestal. If installing upstairs over an open basement, it's advisable to install a fresh air duct leading outside so the stove becomes more efficient by not using any indoor air causing the home to "leak" cold air anywhere it can get it, causing drafts. They sold a set of 1 inch chrome balls that bolted in the corners where the floor mount bolts would go in a mobile installation. I set them on bricks on the 4 corners. You'll find when loading and pushing wood into the stove it creeps back and you have to pull the stove forward into position once in a while. It's due to very little surface area contact on the floor.

I hope you're not using something abrasive on it. It should be like chrome when polished. A metal polish for all metals is the only thing that should be used on the plating. Something for brass, silver, gold. My favorite is Maas, the right stuff will bring it up like a mirror.

Ah, thought it looked a little strange. You didn't refinish it, you resurrected it.
It looks good then.

I see you're missing the original hinge pins. I've detailed how to make them in other threads with a bolt. Grind the hex head round, then put the bolt in a drill and spin with drill against running grinder wheel. Rounds them up nice like a round rivet head. Just make sure you start with a bolt long enough with no threads under the head for an inch and a half so you have a smooth shank when done. Can't tell the difference. And keep them greased.
I put a cap nut on the threaded bolt for air adjuster on mine to prevent the bolt end from wearing crooked. The rounded nut end pushes on the adjustment tab to give a nice smooth action closing door. It barely shows up in photo below;

Keep hi temp grease on the threads through the door as well.
There are bricks under the corners of base plate in photo. They don't show, so you could use them in the back corners and the original balls in the front. What ever you do, don't throw the original balls out! I still have this Goldi that could ummm use a set.

Thanks !



That's the Fisher Bear doing the happy dance

I actually got that Teddy Bear from an eBay auction years ago. Its an authentic Ganz Bear that was given away with Fisher Teddy Bear model stoves in Canada.

Your Goldilocks in 1985 sold for $1124 picked up by customer. That included complete Installation Kit and spark screen. The kit supplied by Simpson Dura-Vent contained aluminum through floor intake pipe with rodent guard, 4 X 4 ft. corrugated steel plate with brick one piece pad and black 4 foot square angle iron trim, a 6 inch double wall damper pipe section, 2 foot double wall pipe section, adjustable (slide in) pipe to chimney adapter, ceiling support box, roof flashing, storm collar, 2 chimney sections, and stainless cap.

I should get pictures of the hearth pad and steel underlayment. It stands against the wall behind stoves and needs to be pulled out for good pics.

I hope it does well with that much connector pipe. That stove was designed for less pipe AND chimney height combined in a mobile home than what you have there.
Is there a damper in that pipe? With open door burning (and screen in place) you want to close it slowly until smoke rolls in at top and open slightly to retain some heat preventing smoke roll in. I only used my screen for starting with lots of air. It's not considered a radiant heater in Fireplace Mode.
Don't be surprised if you don't think it radiates much heat the first fire. The firebricks absorb moisture from the air and new ones have a lot of moisture in them. Once dried out, heat output rises dramatically.