Help deciding on insert- Osburn 2000 or 2400?

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Prezes where are you in CT ? I'm in Southington. Dean is nice , really big selection.
I live in Bristol right by ESPN
Prezes - Lots of good folks with the same advice - The 2400 was it with a nice 3.2' box and was ready to go there but the clearance issue reared its head.. Without a shield option I am missing by a lot on mantle and surround (top clearances). The 2000 makes it with the shield, but... smaller

I have heard Deans a few times now and planning a trip there this weekend. Stuff in my town is crazy expensive. Want to buy local if I can
Dean's is not cheap but because he got such a great selection something's else may catch your eye and then just look somewhere else for price.
 
I live in Bristol right by ESPN

Dean's is not cheap but because he got such a great selection something's else may catch your eye and then just look somewhere else for price.
Thanks ! If I cant get past clearances, it will be the 2000. That BK would be nice though...
 
Thanks ! If I cant get past clearances, it will be the 2000. That BK would be nice though...
Maybe you should visit Fireplaces Etc. In Milford, CT. If I'm not mistaken, a member here drove from Long Island to purchase his BK Princess there. Deans shows up as a BK dealer , but when is stopped there about 6 months ago they did not have any on display.
 
OK, running into another hicup. Was ready to pull trigger on the 2400, but... clearance issues on mantle (I knew this already). The 2000 comes with an option for a heat shield for mantle/surround clearance issues, but dont see one for the 2400 and found a brochure that says "N/A"? Have tried contacting Osburn, but nothing back yet.. If no shield avail, I may be limited to the 2000 and 4-6 hr burns.. Any experience with this? can one be made that would be approved?

The Osburn has a 2.4 cu ft firebox and will certainly get more than 4 to 6 hour burns. If the 2400 does not work have you considered other large inserts like PE Summit or Regency I3100?
 
I still think your living room will give you more circulated heat, but if you can't afford it, then that's the way it goes! I don't know enough about circulating the heat or the BK Princess, all I can say is the 2000 is a big box, that throws lots of heat. Keep doing your homework. I am sure whether you get the Princess, the Summit, the Regency, or the 2000, you'll be happy!
 
I still think your living room will give you more circulated heat, but if you can't afford it, then that's the way it goes! I don't know enough about circulating the heat or the BK Princess, all I can say is the 2000 is a big box, that throws lots of heat. Keep doing your homework. I am sure whether you get the Princess, the Summit, the Regency, or the 2000, you'll be happy!


Thanks again Bagelboy - If I can get 7-8 from the 2.4 on the 2000 it will be enough and should allow me to run pretty much 24/7. I will be burning almost exclusively Red Oak and Maple so should also help. I did start looking at the PE stuff last night based on a lot of the reviews and suggestions here. I cant find any pricing though to know whether or not they are in my budget which is $2,500-3k complete with everything. It will be a DIY project. I will also take a look at Regency today for comp

Anyone have any ballpark $$ on the PE summit insert?
 
The Osburn has a 2.4 cu ft firebox and will certainly get more than 4 to 6 hour burns. If the 2400 does not work have you considered other large inserts like PE Summit or Regency I3100?

Grisu - I think your right and my house is well insulated with good windows and low ceilings so I dont think I will be running it max often. With an insulated block off, insul liner, and a layer of Roxul between the Insert and the FP (with an air gap?) I think I can max out burn times. I would like the added horsepower and burn of the 2400, but like a bust. Heard back from Osburn mfg in Quebec last night and they confirmed no heat shield option for the 2400 and could not suggest spacing/design for a custom one either as they have never done any testing. The clearances are not even close without.. While I dont think unsafe with a custom shield (enough data out there to suggest design) it sounds to me like an insurance can of worms that I might want to avoid...? 2000 will need also need a shield, but it is offered
 
Maybe you should visit Fireplaces Etc. In Milford, CT. If I'm not mistaken, a member here drove from Long Island to purchase his BK Princess there. Deans shows up as a BK dealer , but when is stopped there about 6 months ago they did not have any on display.

Gregbesia - I think the BK is the cats you know what, but all dressed seems well out of my budget. Deans might see me this weekend, and I will call ahead before making trip to make sure hes got some of these on the floor. Thanks for that tip!
 
a layer of Roxul between the Insert and the FP (with an air gap?)

Check the thread I linked to. Probably best (if you have the room) is a layer of Roxul, then a sheet of Durock to stop air-flow, a small air gap and then the back of the insert. That will not increase burn time but the amount of heat you will get out of the insert
 
Check the thread I linked to. Probably best (if you have the room) is a layer of Roxul, then a sheet of Durock to stop air-flow, a small air gap and then the back of the insert. That will not increase burn time but the amount of heat you will get out of the insert
Would this be for the block-off, or general insulation behind and around the insert to keep from loss to the surrounding masonry? How do you secure the dura rock or just "lean"?
I couldn't find the link? Ok, dug around- found it. I will have the space to do a full dura rock surround with rox behind. Think high temp silicone ok to use on the joints to help hold all together then high temp paint?
 
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Sorry, I mixed your thread up with a different one. This is the thread I meant: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/finally-got-around-to-insulating-my-fireplace.75755/page-2

Since I have an interior fireplace I did not need to insulate the back. I would ask mellow for advice. As long as it is non-combustible material you can use whatever you like. And it does not need to look pretty back there.
Thanks Grisu. I found it and looks straight forward. I will be working on it and the damper mod (for liner) this weekend in advance of the stove. I finally pulled the trigger on the 2000 with heat shield last night from Sean at WoodStovePro who had a great price and was awesome in this whole process. I would recommend him to anyone who needs a stove! Will be using an .06 wall liner with insulation. Everything should be here in next 7-10 days. Will keep you all posted and send pics as installation progresses. Thanks again all for everyones help
 
Ok, got the liner, Roxul and durock last week and installed this weekend. Still waiting on stove. Hope to see it end of next week.. Upgraded liner to the .013 2ply smooth wall with 1/2" insulation. It was pretty rigid but had a pretty straight shot with no real issues and only about 15' length. Used Mellows design for guidance, but was able to build full box inside FP with roxul on top of block off and all sides. Still have about 3-5" clear on sides and on top. Back a little tight but some air space. Used some small angle brackets to help keep things together, but mostly all tight and press fit together. Will get some pics added next couple days.
 
Right!
Here is liner prepped and ready. So rigid did not bend when I picked it up... Good thing for shallow roof pitch image.jpg

FP after liner and before insulating and mods to damper to get liner through

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Here is during and after insulating (sorry about rotation need to turn camera next time). Roxul was easy to work with compared to fiberglass. Used cardboard to make templates then transferred to the Durarock and cut with circular saw and stone cutting blade (easily). Left some pieces loose until stove gets fitted as I expect some "tuning".. All in all about a 2" space behind the rock filled with Roxul. Should make a difference? Stove delivers on Wednesday!!

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Renjilj,

Can you please tell me where you found the liner and insulation? I cannot seem to find the heavy wall liner. I want to replace mine and insulate it. When doing a search online they list it as heavy wall but there are no specs and I want to make sure I am getting heavy wall.

Thanks, Norm
 
You should be able to get a 8 to 10 hour burn out of that stove easily. Its listed as a 2.4cuft and I used to own a 2.1 cuft stove and could get 8-10 with good wood. You will need good dry seasoned wood 20% moisture or less. Go to lowes and buy a moisture meter around $30. Once you learn best way to load the stove and learn rake your coals forward method of loading you will be able to easily get 8 to 10 hour heat cycle time. That doesnt mean flames but at the end of the cycle you will have plenty of coals to start another load of splits. Poor wood will take a long time to get going and shorten your burn time.
 
Renjilj,

Can you please tell me where you found the liner and insulation? I cannot seem to find the heavy wall liner. I want to replace mine and insulate it. When doing a search online they list it as heavy wall but there are no specs and I want to make sure I am getting heavy wall.

Thanks, Norm
Norm - Fireside Chimney Supply. Bill Webster on phone was great if you want to talk to someone, otherwise website fairly straight forward. This seemed to be the best liner (and price) I could find. Wasnt cheap by any means but a good liner. If you enter MISC5 you should get a 5% discount and free shipping is included. Shipped fast
 
You should be able to get a 8 to 10 hour burn out of that stove easily. Its listed as a 2.4cuft and I used to own a 2.1 cuft stove and could get 8-10 with good wood. You will need good dry seasoned wood 20% moisture or less. Go to lowes and buy a moisture meter around $30. Once you learn best way to load the stove and learn rake your coals forward method of loading you will be able to easily get 8 to 10 hour heat cycle time. That doesnt mean flames but at the end of the cycle you will have plenty of coals to start another load of splits. Poor wood will take a long time to get going and shorten your burn time.
Thanks Huntindog1. Real experience stories are the best! 8-10 hrs would exceed expectations for this stove so fingers crossed. Will be hardwoods and first cord or 2 is at least 2-3 years split, stacked and covered. After that will be dipping into 1 year stuff... May mix and match as I go?? Just got the meter so will start checking the pile.
 
Just saying if you go to dean's check the bbb site first. Before I knew of this site I went there. Let's just say I'm so glad I found this site and did the install myself....
 
Just saying if you go to dean's check the bbb site first. Before I knew of this site I went there. Let's just say I'm so glad I found this site and did the install myself....
I never made it to deans so can't comment. Found stove online from vendor recommended here. I will be doing the entire install myself !
 
It looks like the decision is made, but FWIW, I have a 1.4 ft3 firebox and constantly wish for more. I would go big and not look back.
 
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It looks like the decision is made, but FWIW, I have a 1.7 ft3 firebox and constantly wish for more. I would go big and not look back.
Agreed, but had clearance issues with the next size up (3.2') and the larger PE was outside budget. It's got a 2.4' box so I think I will be alright based on all the good feedback from fellow 2000'ers.
 
Ok, quick pic. Unpacked it and installed it solo yesterday. Will post some play-by-play pics later. Break-in's this weekend!
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