New Guy; forced into burning for primary heat.

First of all, they now make one the runs on 12VDC. Mine is 110V. 12V is safer with less electrical code issues for installation. You only need to run it off a 12V adapter or even a battery.
Looks like you would need two. Just stack them.

This is what I bought from them. That was the 110 V unit. If I was to buy today I would get the 12V unit. (SYL-1612B)

If you want to monitor two places get two of each. Just over $100

If you want to get fancy get one with a built in alarm. You can set it to go off at a given temperature.



K Type Thermocouple (6 ft. cable) English thread
Item# TC-K6
$6.85

Universal 1/32 DIN PID Temperature Controller
Item# SYL-1512A
$36.95

Subtotal$43.80 USD
Shipping and handling$8.24 USD
Total$52.04 USD
Payment$52.04 USD

Thanks. I will call Auber and ask them for set.

Enzo's Dad said:

I dont Know About Mass, but In Ct there are alot of state subsidised programs to replace an old boiler. They offer financing rebates if you go with any energy star. I may get a heat pump for Domestic Hot water .....perfect for you wet basement since they act as a de-humidifier.

Click to expand...

Is that still true? I thought most rebates ended in 2013.
Do you know if I keep the old boiler, but add a wood/pellet insert, I can still get a rebate?

begreen said:

Yes, besides reaching temps that would be frequently outside of the range of the thermometer and rendering it shortly useless, the firebox temps are not necessarily directly related to the stove top temp. Also, I doubt that the paint would stand up long to the firebox temps and you would be sure to knock it more than once when loading the stove. The thermocouple idea is better if you want accurate temps.

Click to expand...

My reasoning for doing this is that the thermometer is not directly on the fire. So far it gives me readings in the optimal range and the living rooms feels accordingly to the range that the optimal temperature on the thermometer reads . The temperature reads around 400 to 500 degrees and the room is nice and toasty. Subsequently i have a stove in my kitchen and the temperature reading on the same thermometer doesn't get nearly as high but it still feels nice and toasty.

newburner said:

Funny you mentioned that. I considered asking here if that was an option but I didn't want to sound crazy. (In case I haven't sounded crazy yet)

There is a perfect place, a ledge just inside the box at the bottom of the glass that I thought was perfect for a thermo. Have you had any issues with placement inside the box? I guess I can try it. After all. The thermo only cost $11.

Click to expand...

I put mine on the bottom lip of the stove. When it's burning bright i can see it clearly and when it reads in the optimal temperature the room also feels nice and toasty. I have made about a half dozen fires so far. I suppose over time it could get dirty but i don't think it would get ruined if you maintain the fire at the optimal temperature.

If you are a NSTAR customer like me you can get a free energy assessment from next step living. www.nextstepling.com. They will come into home due an assessment replace for free all your old light bulbs and determine your energy needs. They have low interest loans to help you replace that boiler. Thats what I would do. I know money is tight for you but take their loans and pay the minimum. Having a good furnace will give you piece of mind and you can still burn with your insert to keep the oil bill down. Last year I installed an insert a Napoleon 1402 and I had significant savings. I used next step in my home. They suggested to add insulation to major portions of my house,I took their advice and did the work myself. Their phone number is 866-867-8729

cookin2night said:

I put mine on the bottom lip of the stove. When it's burning bright i can see it clearly and when it reads in the optimal temperature the room also feels nice and toasty. I have made about a half dozen fires so far. I suppose over time it could get dirty but i don't think it would get ruined if you maintain the fire at the optimal temperature.

Click to expand...

The correct place to monitor stove temperature is closest to where the damage can get done due to overfiring. That would be on the top side.

As an example, here are the instructions for a Hearthstone Equinox Free Standing stove..

BURN RATE
HIGH BURN: Fully load the firebox with wood on a bed of hot coals or on an actively flaming fire and fully open the primary air control by moving it all the way to the left, away from the ash lip. A high burn rate once or twice a day to heat the stovepipe and chimney fully, will help minimize creosote accumulation. Temperatures of top center stone near flue collar should be in the 500-600 degrees F range.

Click to expand...

For my Hearthstone Clydesdale fireplace insert the instructions are..

After you have attained a high burn rate, monitor the
stove temperatures frequently to ensure that the
stove is not over-fired. The surface temperature on
top front of the insert (firebox body under grill) should
not routinely exceed 600° Fahrenheit (316° Celsius).
Once you understand how your insert burns and
heats in your particular setting, you can easily create
a high burn rate without risk to the stove or chimney.

Click to expand...

hoot said:

The correct place to monitor stove temperature is closest to where the damage can get done due to overfiring. That would be on the top side.

As an example, here are the instructions for a Hearthstone Equinox Free Standing stove..

Click to expand...

But I have the same problem as newburner in that there is not enough space to place it flat against the surface of the insert.

And that is why I went the thermocouple route. Personally I think the stove manufacturers should design something to help this situation out.

Did you modify the insert to attach the couple?

Yes I drilled and tapped a hole in the top to fasten the home made bracket. The tip of the thermocouple only touches the top.

cookin2night said:

But I have the same problem as newburner in that there is not enough space to place it flat against the surface of the insert.

Click to expand...

I use an infrared thermometer. Also helpful at other places in the house. Was just $30 from Harbor Freight although your hardware store or Ebay/Amazon will surely carry one, too.

cookin2night said:

My reasoning for doing this is that the thermometer is not directly on the fire. So far it gives me readings in the optimal range and the living rooms feels accordingly to the range that the optimal temperature on the thermometer reads . The temperature reads around 400 to 500 degrees and the room is nice and toasty. Subsequently i have a stove in my kitchen and the temperature reading on the same thermometer doesn't get nearly as high but it still feels nice and toasty.

Click to expand...

Your kitchen stove can be putting out more heat yet read cooler. It is a matter of room temperature, surface area of the stove and heat transfer from stove to room air efficiency. Take a look at this link.
http://mb-soft.com/public3/woodstov.html

newburner said:

Latest test fire info:

Last night temps were mid 40's. Started the fire at 7:30pm using 3 bio bricks and added 2 splits a half hour later.

Thermo still peaked at only 400° after an hour so I decided to put it in the box just to see. Once in the box, temps peaked at 700°. So I will assume that the real stove top temp was ~550?

By 9:30pm the flames were almost gone. 10:30 saw a red hot coal bed. Temps were still ~550° and the fan was blowing plenty of heat.

Unfortunately, according to my notes on previous tests, I did not see ANY increase in either temp (measured outside the box) or longevity of flames using the bio bricks. I will increase the number of bricks used on the next test. I really want to get this right and feel confident about what I'm doing before the cold weather sets in.

Click to expand...

You have to pack the bricks tight exposing as little surface as possible.

newburner said:

Yes. That's what I did. Theres not much packing you can do with only 3 bricks though.

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How much does each brick weigh? There are diff sizes so I'm not sure how much weight wise you put in.
On another note after a stove has a nice coal bed the stove will burn better. Give it a day or 2 and you will see a diff especially when the outside temps are below freezing.

What I don't understand is how can you get an accurate reading from the top of an insert when the return is on the top?

newburner said:

Good point and one that I had not considered. Thank you.

Each brick weighs 2lbs.

I am expecting better results with each test. I'm just heeding the advice of others by starting small with 2-3 bricks. My next test will be with 6.

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Well the bricks will eliminate the question of dryness for sure.
I have burned some over the last few years with varying results.
Overall they work great but pricey.

I just picked up a ton of them from TSC that were on sale for 3.00 for 20lbs,3 blocks in a package. I like the bigger blocks.

When I buy my fire wood from a guy down the road I haul it home in my trailer which is 4x8.5 with 16" sides. If I stack the wood in it holds exactly one face cord or has most say it 1/3a cord.
Well I hauled home 1 ton of those bricks in a single trip with that same trailer and it was filled to the top the same has a face cord of wood.
I know that the bricks stacked in the trailer have ways less air space then the wood but I was surprised that a ton of bricks took the same space as a face cord.
The brick people seem to always say that their bricks take up half the space but with these it only takes up 1/3 the space.

Thinking ahead it seems that the 300 I just spent on these will not really be very cost effective.

If I burn 60lbs in a 24/hour period that will be 9 bucks a day. 9 bucks a day times 30 is 270 a month and that is 1800 lbs worth,almost the whole ton.
So at that I can only load 30lbs twice a day in my stove.

With wood two loads of 60lbs each will carry me the24 hours no prob even in the coldest weather.

Now the bricks are supposed to pack like 1.5 times the heat of wood per pound ,but I doubt it other wise instead of 120lbs of bricks for a day 60lbs should do it and I know it won't but we shall see.

Here is what I bought a ton of..sorry for the long post but i got to thinking out loud and ran with it..lol.


can't seem to link pic will post one latter but there the Redstone 20 lb package with just 3 bigger bricks in it.

newburner said:

Latest test fire info:

Last night temps were mid 40's. Started the fire at 7:30pm using 3 bio bricks and added 2 splits a half hour later.

Thermo still peaked at only 400° after an hour so I decided to put it in the box just to see. Once in the box, temps peaked at 700°. So I will assume that the real stove top temp was ~550?

By 9:30pm the flames were almost gone. 10:30 saw a red hot coal bed. Temps were still ~550° and the fan was blowing plenty of heat.

Unfortunately, according to my notes on previous tests, I did not see ANY increase in either temp (measured outside the box) or longevity of flames using the bio bricks. I will increase the number of bricks used on the next test. I really want to get this right and feel confident about what I'm doing before the cold weather sets in.

Click to expand...

I have burned well over 1000 lbs of them and packing tight they will last a long time but put out little in the way of heat. I have put as many as 7 in a 1.2 cu. ft. stove and put 3 front rear 2 left right and 2 front back these are the size of a red brick more ore less. I left 1 inch between them as they swell up when burning and will just smolder if not room to expand. The amount that goes in is dependent on house temperature and outside temperature wind etc. Sometimes 5 and omit the top 2 bricks, 3 is pretty much useless. 7 is around 63000 btu. and 5 45000 btu. that will keep secondarys lit for quite a while 5 gets the little stove to around 600 for a couple of hours the 500 dropping off to 450 to 400 while in the coaling stage. 7 gets to 700 stove top 2 hours of secondarys for 2 hours and cruise at 550 to 500 for quite a while then the same coaling temps but for a longer time. The downside is you really can't add much until they burn down and just a few make barely enough heat to keep the secondarys going very long if at all. I go by the directions on the ones I buy locally and the tell you to give them a bit of room to expand. You need surface area to burn and packing tight I have found makes for a very cool slow burning fire that sends too much up the stack as you can not make a decent draft or enough to really close the air down and make some heat. They do burn very clean though. When you use cordwood there is a lot of gaps for air that will allow a surface to burn and offer heat.

I just want to add they are a good solution to take a chill off but a poor one for 24/7 quick heat when you need it and cheap for that 24/7 they are a waste of time. Try it my way for fun and do a proportional load for the size of your house and stove and see what you get. No snese wasting the good stuff only to open windows for 4 hours to cool the house down.

I just bought a ton of those at TSC myself. I wanted Eco Brick brand but the manager said they are only carrying their Redstone bricks now. She claimed that they are made by Eco Brick, just larger - three in a pack instead of six.