Liner Quesions for fireplace insert

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Mtnyota

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Nov 27, 2012
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I'm about to close on the purchase of my first home. The house is a 1483sqft, single story with and interior heatilator brick fireplace build in 1963. It has the tube heat exchangers crossing the flue, which I have read need to be cut out.

I'm looking at getting either the Regency I2400 or the Osburn 2000 or 2400. What I am trying to figure out is what is really necessary with the liner options.

-316ss vs 304ss
-Insulated or not
-single wall vs Double wall
-Ridged to Flex or flex all the way
-Do i need to have the chimney cleaned prior to lining

Thanks for the help.
 
What is necessary is a stainless steel chimney liner, the same size as the outlet on the stove, most likely 6", to be attached to the stove and ran all the way to the top of the chimney. It will need to be insulated also.

  • Most places only offer the flex liner in 316, but 304 will work for wood.
  • Insulation is required.
  • Single wall or double wall. Many people confuse this with 1 ply or 2 ply. The 2 ply liner has the smooth inner wall, which will increase draft and decrease creosote build up. 1ply = Good 2ply = Better But both liners will work.
  • Rigid is the best liner you can get. The problem is the chimney needs to be perfectly straight. Some people install rigid for the top until they reach the smoke chamber area, then use flexible chimney liner for the last couple feet.
  • Cleaning the chimney before hand is recommended. Depending on how dirty the chimney is it may make the install much easier.
In review you need a stainless steel chimney liner all the way to the top of the chimney and insulation.
 
Also, is ovalizing the liner to go through the liner recomended (as long as it doesn't crush the duct), or cutting the flue? Does ovalizing the duct create any cleaning issues?
 
It is possible to make the liner oval to get thru the damper area.

But especially in your case since you are already having to remove those tubes from the heatilator, just make the opening large enough so the liner can pass thru round.
 
If you run a camera down the chimney, which is not a bad idea, but by the time you spend the money on hiring a sweep to inspect the chimney with a camera you are looking at the same cost as insulation. It doesn't matter if your flues are cracked or if you don't have any flues at all, if you install the chimney liner with insulation, you know you did the install the right way and you are safe.
 
chimneylinerjames said:
If you run a camera down the chimney, which is not a bad idea, but by the time you spend the money on hiring a sweep to inspect the chimney with a camera you are looking at the same cost as insulation. It doesn't matter if your flues are cracked or if you don't have any flues at all, if you install the chimney liner with insulation, you know you did the install the right way and you are safe.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. There could be other issues that a sweep might find, including shifted or misaligned flue tiles which will prevent liner install, or a chimney top that needs repointing & may collapse at install. It is NEVER a good idea to forgo a chimney inspection, nor is it a waste of money.
 
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I have the Osburn 2000 in a steel heatilator and its a boss.
 
Ed - How big an area you trying to heat with your 2000?
Is it open, or chopped up with doors and walls?
What are your temps and burn times on avg?
I am debating the OZ 2000 or 2400 dont want to be under, but dont want to boil lobster in the living room either..! I have 1900' alltogether on single level, but 1/2 is down a hallway 90 degrees to other half (which is open floor plan) with stove on far end of that...

Looking for specific experience to guide
 
Ed has not been here since the summer. Click on his profile and try starting a conversation with him. That will generate an email to him and should give you a quicker answer.
 
Thanks Grisu. I will do that. Your everywhere!
 
I replied to your instant message. Its that time of year again and were baaaaaaaaaaaaaaccck!
 
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