The Stihl 362 starts very hard.

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Roundgunner

Roundgunner

Feeling the Heat
Nov 26, 2013
360
Rural CT
I took it to the dealer who commented on it being like new, I told him it stays like that because it wont start.
He said I flood it. I have tried and tried but most of the time I just go get the 251. I need the 25" bar for some big red oak.

I tried starting fluid today and still couldn't get it. Thinking Husky.

Suggestions?
 
Have you atleast pulled the plug out and taken a look?
 
Starting fluid is not recommend for 2-cycle engines.

Did the dealer get it started?

Are you having trouble getting it started when cold? Trouble restarting when warm? Both?

What gasoline octane do you use? What 2-cycle oil do you use? What mix ratio?

How old is your fuel? Do you shake your fuel can before pouring?
 
I've had both of my Stihl saws for almost 4 years now and no issues with starting. Knock on wood.

When you have the choke on, can you hear a short little "blip" while trying to start it? As soon as you hear that blip you need to move the lever into the run position and pull the cord with the lever in the run position.

If I bought a saw brand new and it would not start for me, I would be livid. If you did buy the saw brand new and have hardly used it, how much are you asking for it? lol Just kidding, but seriously. Have my heart set on a MS441 to fall between my 261 and 660.
 
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fabsroman said:
When you have the choke on, can you hear a short little "blip" while trying to start it? As soon as you hear that blip you need to move the lever into the run position and pull the cord with the lever in the run position....
Click to expand...

Good point. When I first got my 361, it was sometimes difficult to notice it "blip" or "pop" when the engine first fires on full choke. I learned not to pull more than 3 times on choke or it will flood. These days, I flip the lever to fast idle after the third pull, even if I don't hear it fire. No more flooding.
 
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Rossco said:
Have you atleast pulled the plug out and taken a look?
Click to expand...

+1. Go through the motions of starting it and then pull the plug if it won't start for you. Is it wet? If not, then no fuel is getting to the cylinder. If it is wet it could be a bad plug. That's where I would start at least - that's assuming your fuel is good.

Let me get this straight - you took it to your dealer to have them take a look and all they did was comment that it looks brand new? Maybe it's time for a new dealer.

Keep us posted.
 
is the decomp working properly? +1 on starting method mentioned (pull 'til burp, etc)
 
Is this one of the newer M-tronic versions, or a conventional carburetor?
 
362 should be the m-tronic one, so no adjusting of the carb... If it's flooding it's because of spark plug. Not saying it couldn't be something else awry, but he's not getting a pop from starting fluid, so i'd look there first.

Although, now that you bring up the M-tronic system, there won't even be a choke on this, right? So what people are saying for pull until the pop won't work? Someone with a 362 will have to school me. I only know what I know by poking around at them on the shelves at the dealership.
 
I got sick of fighting it so bought a new Baush(sp) plug. No go. Took it to saw shop, someone other than owner told me chain was very dull, I said I wouldn't know it won't start. They wouldn't even look at it unless I let them sharpen it for $7. Then I asked how long they need to look at it. That's when they said it looks like new so it should start (duh) it will be done in a week.

Got it back $50 later, another new plug, 3 new links in chain, sharp chain and the same instructions you all have said on starting procedure. It was flooded.

It started once.

I have pulled the plug overnight, blown compressed air in it, the gas is premium fresh and works in the 251.

If I flood it how is the best way to get it clear again?
 
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Sure you don't have a dry rotted fuel line sucking air?
Look between tank & carb
 
Roundgunner said:
If I flood it how is the best way to get it clear again?
Click to expand...

Move it to high idle (off the choke setting), set the saw on the ground, set the chain brake, hold the throttle wide open, and pull repeatedly.

 
Thanks Jon I will try it that way next.
 
Are you sure you even have a choke setting? Stuff I'm reading says one setting and it's "run"
 
It has a choke. I'm sure it is operator error but I can't hear it try to start, ever. I hate it.
 
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Just for giggles...once you know the saw is dry (like sitting for a few days) put the saw in the choke position. Pull 3 times (and no more than three times) on choke. Move lever to fast run - pull till it starts. Don't be surprised if this method requires 5-7 pulls on fast/run, but I would be interested if it will start this way.

You are not using the trigger at this point in starting, are you?
 
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Jags said:
Just for giggles...once you know the saw is dry (like sitting for a few days) put the saw in the choke position. Pull 3 times (and no more than three times) on choke. Move lever to fast run - pull till it starts. Don't be surprised if this method requires 5-7 pulls on fast/run, but I would be interested if it will start this way.

You are not using the trigger at this point in starting, are you?
Click to expand...

I do trigger while pushing control lever all the way down. Pull trying to get a false start, bring it up one notch, I think that unchokes it but keeps throttle on full. I used to pull until I was so mad I wanted to throw it but I was to beat to do it. Now I just take the plug out and get the 251 and it start right up. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow, I have a bunch of big oak in the driveway and the wife is getting her car back tomorrow after having it painted. It will be going in the garage or I will be staying in the garage.:)
 
Roundgunner said:
I do trigger while pushing control lever all the way down. Pull trying to get a false start, bring it up one notch, I think that unchokes it but keeps throttle on full.
Click to expand...

Yes - this is correct. Try my above suggestion on a cold saw. See where that gets you.
 
So I gave it my all again today. Ended up using the 251 again.
I need 24 inch lengths so I noodled 18 deep before cutting them off to make them lighter for splitting. It would be a lot faster and easier if I had the 25" bar on the 362.



 
Did you try Jags' suggestion?

Did you say that your dealer was able to get your 362 started?

If yes, propose to the dealer that he keep the saw for three days or so and start it from cold every day. If the starts are successful, ask the dealer how he did it, and then you do it that way.
 
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What do you want for this saw? I was looking at a 390, but I think I'd rather have a 362...
 
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Thats too much work...... In CT we have serious problems with ethanol. My Husqvarna trimmer has had to have the fuel lines fixed twice. When my chainsaws act up i mix startron in with the gas, and then run a tankful of the bottled 50/1 mix from husqvarna. Empty your gas and start with the fuel.
 
HI Roundgunner
Check to make sure your choke is working properly.
I bought a 026 from a old lady that used it sparingly at her cabin.She couldn't get it to start anymore,took it to the Stihl dealer and was told it wasn;t worth fixing.She bought a box store special Husky to replace it and answered my wanted chainsaws ad.I gave her $5 more than she was asking for it.I kept it in my shop and would try to start it once in a while,some times it would start and other times it wouldn't.So when i got serious about using it i found the choke wasn't working properly.A little adjustment on the choke assembly,a muff mod and its been a great saw for the last 3 yrs,i leave it on my quad and never fails to start even at -30.
Thomas
 
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