The Stihl 362 starts very hard.

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My 362 starts and runs great. Provided I keep fresh fuel in it. don't try to use fuel from last winter. Dump your fuel tank out - into a can and burn it on an outdoor fire. I use 93 octane and the newer silver Stihl mix. I use startech stabilizer in fuel due the dang ethanol. OP never said what type of oil he was running. I mix 1 gal at a time to keep it fresh. Push decompression button down. Should always get it to "pop" with control/choke lever all the way down, on no more than 7 pulls. Push lever up one notch and should fire within 1-3 pulls.

If I ever have a flooded condition, which I have on my 250, you take off the muffler (2 bolts and a gasket) and it will fire right up on choke (and run loudly). Put it back on and problem solved. I learned this from my chainsaw dealer and have done it a few times with success. Your shop charged you $50 to do the same.

By the way that is some gnarly oak Roundgunner, you need the 362 for that!!
 
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OP has demonstrated in this discussion that he isn't very interested in getting his 362 running. If he were, he would have carefully read the replies and answered ALL of the questions posed.

Every question asked is important as the answers help to rule out possible issues. It's how diagnoses are made.
 
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This is true. Well I gave out some advice most dealers would not like! I hope it helps those that read the threads. But if he wants to try a husky and not change the fuel...

Nice JD by the way treepointer!
 
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OP has demonstrated in this discussion that he isn't very interested in getting his 362 running. If he were, he would have carefully read the replies and answered ALL of the questions posed.

Every question asked is important as the answers help to rule out possible issues. It's how diagnoses are made.

You know that's not very fair. I don't have time to have 2000+ post. Does that mean I'm unworthy? Please press ignore. Just because I didn't type out a response to every suggestion believe it or not I have tried many of the suggestions some before some after.

I run a business and do not have a whole lot of free internet time.
 
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My 362 starts and runs great. Provided I keep fresh fuel in it. don't try to use fuel from last winter. Dump your fuel tank out - into a can and burn it on an outdoor fire. I use 93 octane and the newer silver Stihl mix. I use startech stabilizer in fuel due the dang ethanol. OP never said what type of oil he was running. I mix 1 gal at a time to keep it fresh. Push decompression button down. Should always get it to "pop" with control/choke lever all the way down, on no more than 7 pulls. Push lever up one notch and should fire within 1-3 pulls.

If I ever have a flooded condition, which I have on my 250, you take off the muffler (2 bolts and a gasket) and it will fire right up on choke (and run loudly). Put it back on and problem solved. I learned this from my chainsaw dealer and have done it a few times with success. Your shop charged you $50 to do the same.

By the way that is some gnarly oak Roundgunner, you need the 362 for that!!

The fuel is fresh + dealer dumped and refilled too. I think maybe I don't have a strong enough pull in me. I'm going to take it back to dealer soon and leave it for 3 days as suggested.
 
I do use the silver oil from Stihl as it made the warrantee 2 years instead of only 1.

My son in law has pulled his arm off too.
 
Starting fluid is not recommend for 2-cycle engines.

Did the dealer get it started? yes

Are you having trouble getting it started when cold? yes Trouble restarting when warm? yes Both? yes

What gasoline octane do you use? premium What 2-cycle oil do you use? Stihl silver What mix ratio? 50/1

How old is your fuel? new Do you shake your fuel can before pouring? Yes
 
Good point. When I first got my 361, it was sometimes difficult to notice it "blip" or "pop" when the engine first fires on full choke. I learned not to pull more than 3 times on choke or it will flood. These days, I flip the lever to fast idle after the third pull, even if I don't hear it fire. No more flooding.

Tried that too.
 
+1. Go through the motions of starting it and then pull the plug if it won't start for you. Is it wet? If not, then no fuel is getting to the cylinder. If it is wet it could be a bad plug. That's where I would start at least - that's assuming your fuel is good.

Let me get this straight - you took it to your dealer to have them take a look and all they did was comment that it looks brand new? Maybe it's time for a new dealer.

Keep us posted.

Yes plug is wet.

Dealer replaced a brand new plug
 
is the decomp working properly? +1 on starting method mentioned (pull 'til burp, etc)

Decomp works, dealer said full compression is better. I have tried both ways.
 
You know that's not very fair. I don't have time to have 2000+ post. Does that mean I'm unworthy? Please press ignore. Just because I didn't type out a response to every suggestion believe it or not I have tried many of the suggestions some before some after.

I run a business and do not have a whole lot of free internet time.

I saw continued posting without answering some of what I saw as key questions. There is a form of trolling that follows that pattern. I misinterpreted. Sorry about that.

Some more options:

It is possible that the carb wasn't tuned properly. A different Stihl dealer may give it a proper tuning and under warranty if you explain your history with it.

Regarding the pull starting technique, I do know that folks get used to pull starting one way, and it may not work with some chainsaws. For instance, when I start my lawnmowers, it's a big long pull that's often of moderate speed. I've been around a couple chainsaws that don't respond to those long pulls, but do start very consistently with very rapid or sudden shorter pulls.
 
I will try a very fast pull tomorrow night. Plug has been out all day. I do have another dealer about the same distance in the other direction. I think I don't pull strong enough. The 251 starts with a smooth easy pull. I have had trouble with this right from the start. Right handed with pain in right elbow, probably the pull.
 
I will try a very fast pull tomorrow night. Plug has been out all day. I do have another dealer about the same distance in the other direction. I think I don't pull strong enough. The 251 starts with a smooth easy pull. I have had trouble with this right from the start. Right handed with pain in right elbow, probably the pull.

Yeah, there is one heck of a difference between starting my 261 and 660. Pull speed is the same (i.e., fast), but the strength needed to pull the 660 is a lot more than the 261, and forget pulling the 660 at that speed without using the decomp. I never use the decomp on the 261, but would blow my elbow out if I did not use it on the 660. Try hard, quick pulls on the 362 with the decomp on and then off. Then, if you have no luck sell the saw, preferably to me. lol If you were around the corner, I would actually try to lend you a hand.

Somewhat weird that the dealer can get it to start but you cannot.
 
I just got back from dealer. He couldn't get it to start either. He kept it. Looks like intermittent spark. He is going to replace coil pack under warrantee.

I thought about asking if I get my $50 back from last week but I think I will let that slide.
 
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Coil pack could definitely be a culprit.
 
Just for giggles...once you know the saw is dry (like sitting for a few days) put the saw in the choke position. Pull 3 times (and no more than three times) on choke. Move lever to fast run - pull till it starts. Don't be surprised if this method requires 5-7 pulls on fast/run, but I would be interested if it will start this way.

You are not using the trigger at this point in starting, are you?

I forgo that the first step. I leave the choke on run, squeeze the trigger, and pull like 4 times. It starts.
 
I got the 362 back today. Employee says there you go, no charge, covered by warrantee. I thanked him and asked if I could get a little off on a chain because I got charged $46 when I brought it in 2 weeks ago. The owner comes out of the back and gets involved telling me they did not do anything that didn’t need to be done. I told them I did not think it fair that I had to pay a shop charge. They got pretty loud and I purposely did not.

$7.00 sharpen chain

$?? Replace 3 links

$4.00 spark plug

The rest was shop charge and tax. It wouldn’t be a problem but they didn’t fix the problem. When I brought it back they do a factory covered warrantee repair. I feel like they could have given me a bit off on a chain because the shop charge should have been the warrantee work. Am I wrong in feeling that I was taken?

I as considering a leaf blower but not now. I think I will be going to the other dealer for anything else I need too.

The saw is running and starts well now by the way.
 
BB walks away chuckling about ten years of reading threads about always buying a saw from dealers...
 
When they said you had to have your chain sharpened for $7 for them to even look at the saw, that was your cue to say "no thanks" and walk away. They could have looked up your saw's SN to see that it's still under warranty and proceed from there. Find another Stihl dealer for service.

That practice was dishonest. Call Stihl USA. They will want to know about it. More than one dealer has lost their license to sell Stihl products over such practices.
 
I'm writing them a letter right now.
 
I'm writing them a letter right now.

Yep, I would have been pissed off with the dealer, both for the money it charged me and the time I lost having to come back a second time. I would have been livid and I doubt I would have been quiet if the manager/owner decided to raise his voice at me.

Good on you for writing that letter.
 
Next time, just take the power head into the dealer.

Glad the saw is ripping again.
 
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