Wood shed pressure treated or not

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Berner

Berner

Feeling the Heat
Feb 1, 2012
388
Eastern, MA
Finalizing the plans for my woodshed and was wondering what folks thought about using pressure treated wood.

The structure will be 8x12 built on 6 concrete sonotubes. The floor will be supported by crushed stone with 2 X 8 floor joists that rest on the stone. On top of the joists will be more 2x8 for a floor.
It will have 2x4s running horizontally spaced a few inches apart (air flow) on the sides and in the middle to split the shed in half. Obviously I will be using pressure treated for the posts out of the sonotubes, and floor joists.

My question is would you guys use pressure treated for the flooring, the 2x4s used for sides or the roof rafters?

I'm worried about insects liking the wood shed as much as the wood. Also worried about it being an open shed. I doubt much water will get in because I want to have a 2ft overhang on all sides but still a small concern.

Those who have a wood shed what did you do?
 
If it was me , I would probablly get pressure treated ( or cedar, if you have a affordable access to cedar stud) for what ever is touching the ground and qoul put regular tjimber for the remaining. Ideally you would have access to someone with a wood lot and a small saw mill, so you can build te sed with rough thimber, almost anything except fir. The regular stuff bought at lumber yard is a mix of spruce and fir. Fit will rot a lot faster than spruce. And you might be surprise that local wood from a small "pedler" is cheaper than what you bought at the lumber yard. Larch would be a good cheap ( it is in my area anyway). Me I went "pole barn" for my wood shed. CEdar post, with larch wall and poplar plank under the metal roof
 
Random thoughts . . .

I agree with a lot of what Fi-Q said.

Wood touching the ground should be pressure treated . . . it may be OK if touching crushed rock as this would allow decent drainage, but I would still pay a wee bit more and go with the PT.

So if I'm reading this the floor joists and anything touching the ground will be pressure treated . . . you're just asking about the floor. I would echo FI-Q and go with rough cut wood . . . it will probably be cheaper, thicker and since it's a wood shed floor it doesn't need to be pretty. I went with rough cut hemlock when I built my woodshed five or so years ago and it has held up very well.

Sides and roof rafters can also be regular wood . . . my woodshed has 2 x 4 walls with rough cut hemlock set in a board and batting (minus the batting) configuration to allow air flow. Again, no signs of rot. Most rain doesn't stay on it for very long . . . my summer and winter sheds out back have been around even longer and the walls are fine . . . the issue with rot tends to be where wood stays in contact with moisture for an extended period of time (i.e. flat surfaces, ground, etc.)

I haven't noticed bugs to be an issue with the wood . . . then again the wood I put in the shed has been out in the stack drying for a year prior to me putting it into the woodshed.

Open shed . . . two feet is plenty of overhang for the sides . . . rain may not fall straight down . . . but it also doesn't tend to fall at such an angle that it will soak your wood. I think I have 6-12 inches overhang on the sides and maybe a 3 foot overhang on the front. Wood is never wet. BFD Pics 306.jpg[/ATTACH]
 

Attachments

  • 2011_01110054.JPG
    2011_01110054.JPG
    275.2 KB · Views: 6,446
  • Like
Reactions: stayfitz, Soundchasm and Fi-Q
I am in the process of finishing my shed/woodshed. What I did on the wood area is put down veranda deck boards spaced 1" apart (Home Depot brand Trex). Before putting down the boards I put insect screen down to keep them from coming up from the bottom. I did this in the outdoor shower some years back and it does a wonderful job of keeping them away. I am going to put sliding doors on so I can keep it open most of the time and close it when the inclement weather comes.

I went ahead and used pt for wall studs and pt ply for the sides. I figure that if it is going to be open why not. Really not that much more money and I like the extra protection. Plus I do not think the bugs like it. Rafters and sheathing I used non pt. Also put in a ridge vent. Not sure if it is needed but I wanted to keep it consistent with the shed.

Edit: Added photo
IMG_Web0035.jpg
Good luck!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bluezx636 and Rebelduckman
I used pressure treated poles and the first row of plywood and non-treated lumber above that. (gravel floor)

If I was building a floor I would use treated for the floor also as there is a lot of moisture under the ground and under the wood to rot things out.
 
Jeeze Hamsey I would live in the shed you built, you're wood is the luckiest around. Trex flooring! That's high class my friend.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lakeside
Razo,

Only want to do it once. Wife calls it the In-Law apartment. I was pretty adamant about a shed until I needed a place to store the seasoned wood to clear the drying racks for new wood. I want something nice to look at since it is right in our face and I like being different.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tyler
@hamsey, I have to agree with Razo -- I thought that was a house you were building! It's beautiful. Your wood should be quite happy! You might want to reconsider its purpose and rent it out! Really awesome!
 
Fi-Q said:
If it was me , I would probablly get pressure treated ( or cedar, if you have a affordable access to cedar stud) for what ever is touching the ground and qoul put regular tjimber for the remaining. Ideally you would have access to someone with a wood lot and a small saw mill, so you can build te sed with rough thimber, almost anything except fir. The regular stuff bought at lumber yard is a mix of spruce and fir. Fit will rot a lot faster than spruce. And you might be surprise that local wood from a small "pedler" is cheaper than what you bought at the lumber yard. Larch would be a good cheap ( it is in my area anyway). Me I went "pole barn" for my wood shed. CEdar post, with larch wall and poplar plank under the metal roof
Click to expand...

First off you guys have some really really nice looking sheds. Funny enough I have some Norway spruce that I got milled in late June. It's been stacked and drying but I don't think it's ready for framing lumber. This is the first time I milled lumber myself so I wouldn't call myself an expert but what do you think? Would Norway spruce be good for use after three months of drying? Would it be good to use for the rafters or the spaced sides? I don't want to use stuff that isn't ready and deal with a racked shed or rafters that end of cracking.
 
firefighterjake said:
Random thoughts . . .

I agree with a lot of what Fi-Q said.

Wood touching the ground should be pressure treated . . . it may be OK if touching crushed rock as this would allow decent drainage, but I would still pay a wee bit more and go with the PT.

So if I'm reading this the floor joists and anything touching the ground will be pressure treated . . . you're just asking about the floor. I would echo FI-Q and go with rough cut wood . . . it will probably be cheaper, thicker and since it's a wood shed floor it doesn't need to be pretty. I went with rough cut hemlock when I built my woodshed five or so years ago and it has held up very well.

Sides and roof rafters can also be regular wood . . . my woodshed has 2 x 4 walls with rough cut hemlock set in a board and batting (minus the batting) configuration to allow air flow. Again, no signs of rot. Most rain doesn't stay on it for very long . . . my summer and winter sheds out back have been around even longer and the walls are fine . . . the issue with rot tends to be where wood stays in contact with moisture for an extended period of time (i.e. flat surfaces, ground, etc.)

I haven't noticed bugs to be an issue with the wood . . . then again the wood I put in the shed has been out in the stack drying for a year prior to me putting it into the woodshed.

Open shed . . . two feet is plenty of overhang for the sides . . . rain may not fall straight down . . . but it also doesn't tend to fall at such an angle that it will soak your wood. I think I have 6-12 inches overhang on the sides and maybe a 3 foot overhang on the front. Wood is never wet.View attachment 140654[/ATTACH]
Click to expand...

My hope would be to have my wood outside for at least a year preferably two before it goes into the shed. However this summer I saw beatles in my wood that had been stacked for two and a half years. Maybe that's not the type of beetle that would like my wood shed?

I found one saw mill but their prices were just a small touch lower than the big box store. As it goes I have a big box store two miles away. The saw mill was 30 miles away. I would probably spend more on gas than the difference in wood price. I will keep looking though I like the idea of it.
 
Berner said:
My hope would be to have my wood outside for at least a year preferably two before it goes into the shed. However this summer I saw beatles in my wood that had been stacked for two and a half years. Maybe that's not the type of beetle that would like my wood shed?

I found one saw mill but their prices were just a small touch lower than the big box store. As it goes I have a big box store two miles away. The saw mill was 30 miles away. I would probably spend more on gas than the difference in wood price. I will keep looking though I like the idea of it.
Click to expand...

Lord help me . . . but I cannot resist.

Guess it depends on how you feel about their music. :) ;)

beatles.jpg
 
Our horse barn that is 21+ yrs old is also sided by rough cut pine. No rot except where anything did make contact with the ground. Here the lumber was cheaper rough cut than big box store and you get true sizes...2X4 is not 1.5X3.5
For me it looks better too, more rustic. After a year drying out I applied exterior deck stain. My flooring is just pallets or skids and has held up well too.
 
If you are building a shed that will last, pressure treated wood is a way to go.
 
For your spruce, can you check the level of humidity in it? ME, i would use it as is, maybe put some more screws and cross brass to avoid movment from the stids, but ME i would use it for anything not touching ground. But ME , my shed is so far away from the house that it is the last of my concern if tere is some movement.... Your story can be diffrent.
 
tsquini said:
If you are building a shed that will last, pressure treated wood is a way to go.
Click to expand...
I'm not arguing with this, but there are an awful lot of 80-150 year old barns around these parts that suggest that it's not necessary if you know what you are doing.
 
IMG_1105.JPG
I used psi treated posts but the rest are scrap from a lumber yard cull pile and metal roof. I think I have 200 bucks into each of my sheds . Now I will say, these are not in view from the house so they did not have to be "home owner assoc" quality. haha I have updated them a little since this picture. I took out the pallet sides and installed just a few boards around and lined the inside with heavy chicken wire. It holds the stacks fine and allows for the most possible air flow
 
I think the pt for the ground and floor boards is a must. I went pt throughout the entire thing. I bit overkill. But I'm like that. I built two shed this year. One for my house in VT, and one for RI.image.jpgimage.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: kennyp2339 and Berner
tigger said:
I think the pt for the ground and floor boards is a must. I went pt throughout the entire thing. I bit overkill. But I'm like that. I built two shed this year. One for my house in VT, and one for RI.View attachment 140758View attachment 140759
Click to expand...

Wow those are more nice looking sheds. I especially like the bottom one. What are the dimensions of the bottom shed?
 
captjack said:
View attachment 140750
I used psi treated posts but the rest are scrap from a lumber yard cull pile and metal roof. I think I have 200 bucks into each of my sheds . Now I will say, these are not in view from the house so they did not have to be "home owner assoc" quality. haha I have updated them a little since this picture. I took out the pallet sides and installed just a few boards around and lined the inside with heavy chicken wire. It holds the stacks fine and allows for the most possible air flow
Click to expand...

I
Fi-Q said:
For your spruce, can you check the level of humidity in it? ME, i would use it as is, maybe put some more screws and cross brass to avoid movment from the stids, but ME i would use it for anything not touching ground. But ME , my shed is so far away from the house that it is the last of my concern if tere is some movement.... Your story can be diffrent.
Click to expand...

I do have a moisture meter. It is a 25 dollar cheapo from Lowes. I have never got it to work right. I crack open a split plunk the prongs in the middle and it always reads that my wood is ridiculously bone dry. Green Oak 15% then as I press harder and harder it goes from 15% to 20% to 25% to 30%. That's quite a range. Anyone else have this problem?
 
Fi-Q said:
For your spruce, can you check the level of humidity in it? ME, i would use it as is, maybe put some more screws and cross brass to avoid movment from the stids, but ME i would use it for anything not touching ground. But ME , my shed is so far away from the house that it is the last of my concern if tere is some movement.... Your story can be diffrent.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately this shed will be in the front yard staring me in the face all the time. I really want it to be a nice one.
 
The bottom one each bay is 8x8 (2.5 cords per bay) Top one each bay is 6x6(1.5 cords per bay)
 
Berner said:
I


I do have a moisture meter. It is a 25 dollar cheapo from Lowes. I have never got it to work right. I crack open a split plunk the prongs in the middle and it always reads that my wood is ridiculously bone dry. Green Oak 15% then as I press harder and harder it goes from 15% to 20% to 25% to 30%. That's quite a range. Anyone else have this problem?
Click to expand...
After you split tap two holes the width of the prongs with a nail and hammer. Once they are both fully in the wood you should get consistent readings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Berner
lindnova said:
I used pressure treated poles and the first row of plywood and non-treated lumber above that. (gravel floor)

If I was building a floor I would use treated for the floor also as there is a lot of moisture under the ground and under the wood to rot things out.
Click to expand...
Berner said:
Finalizing the plans for my woodshed and was wondering what folks thought about using pressure treated wood.

The structure will be 8x12 built on 6 concrete sonotubes. The floor will be supported by crushed stone with 2 X 8 floor joists that rest on the stone. On top of the joists will be more 2x8 for a floor.
It will have 2x4s running horizontally spaced a few inches apart (air flow) on the sides and in the middle to split the shed in half. Obviously I will be using pressure treated for the posts out of the sonotubes, and floor joists.

My question is would you guys use pressure treated for the flooring, the 2x4s used for sides or the roof rafters?

I'm worried about insects liking the wood shed as much as the wood. Also worried about it being an open shed. I doubt much water will get in because I want to have a 2ft overhang on all sides but still a small concern.

Those who have a wood shed what did you do?
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Y
Wood storage: metal carcass+tarps VS wooden shade VS outside stack+tarp next to a stone fence?
Replies
5
Views
718
The Wood Shed
kborndale
K
T
Woodshed build question
Replies
14
Views
1K
The Wood Shed
Ashful
Ashful
j7art2
Wood shed costs... Maybe I'm better off with a pre-built versatube?
Replies
22
Views
3K
The Wood Shed
Ashful
Ashful
BrownT10
Wood shed build
Replies
20
Views
4K
The Wood Shed
cahaak
C
E
Wood Storage Questions
Replies
36
Views
3K
The Wood Shed
JamesGuido
JamesGuido
Top Bottom
Back