Buiding a Wood Stove / Insert

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12guns

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Sep 29, 2012
35
I've posted here before about a small rock cabin and our heating issues...With winter coming, I would like to get a stove or insert soon. Here's the old thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...l-cabin-need-advice.91005/page-2#post-1193579

And here's my new idea: I can buy a 4x8 sheet of 3/16" steel (last as long as I want it to) for $120 from a local scrap yard that orders in metal on request. I have shops in the area that I work with that are willing to cut the sheets as needed. I'm handy (sort of lol) with a welder and can do most of the labor myself at home. What's to keep me from building this thing myself? Attached is a picture of my hand drawn plans. I know it's HUGE, but I want it to fit in the existing fireplace, yet still draw properly w/ the doors open to give the "open fireplace" feel.
Does the 1:10 ratio still apply for the stove pipe needed? I'll be limited to 8" in order to fit around the existing smoke shelf. I can scale down the stove if needed to accommodate the 8" pipe. It will be set off the concrete floor w/ casters or blocks, then lined w/ fire bricks. I'm not worried about being up to residential code since it will be in a rock/concrete cabin that just gets used a few weekends each year. Thoughts? Am I crazy? Will it work? stove.JPG
 
I'm thinking you can buy an old monster stove off craigslist for 2-300 bucks, and call it done.
 
You can still burn the place down and kill everyone in there in just a few weekends a year It should still be to code. I would look for something used that will work. there is allot that goes into stove design you could very well spend the time and money just to find that it works really poorly.
 
I'd call your homeowners insurance who has the policy on your cabin and tell them what you're gonna do then let us know what they say.
 
I've been searching craigslist, there's just not much that fits my needs out there. I certainly want it to be safe, All I meant is that it would seem fairly simple to reproduce a steel wood burning stove with thick steel and the proper ventailation. What more are there to stoves that I'm missing? Thanks for the replies!
 
One year I had a baffle break in the top of my stove. I called the stove store and they ordered a new one. Then I proceeded to make a make-shift baffle for the time being out of plate steel. It too was probably 3/16 or so which I cut to fit in the top of the stove. I burned it that way for a week or so until my new baffle came in. When I removed the steel plate it was warped about 1/2 in higher on both sides. I think I would do as hogwildz said and keep looking for a stove on local sites or at auctions and garage sales. One will turn up sooner or later. I believe most stoves are constructed out of 1/4 inch steel or so. I'd hate to see you get hurt or burn the place down.
 
Warping is certainly an issue, and frankly I guess there is a reason not many people weld up their own stoves. Thanks for the replies, all good advice.
 
I would stay w/ the open fireplace, but it is so wide open, it sucks what little heat is in the room and sends it straight up the chimney. An insulated roof would help, and maybe a fresh air source, but there's still no way to keep it from burning through a rick of wood in three nights! Would plumbing the chimney with pipe and capping it slow down the airflow any? Or without a stove, is it a waste of time?
 
A huge stove with no baffle is going to go through almost as much wood as the fireplace.
3/16 is not thick enough to start with, especially for the expanse of stove you wish to build. It will warp & buckle.
You're basically wanting to build a steel box with a door and an exhaust outlet. There is truly much more to a stove than that.
Not knocking your thought, but really requires more than welding 6 sides together, adding a door and an outlet.
What area are you in?
 
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