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fireitup

fireitup

New Member
Oct 11, 2014
82
Waterbury, CT
Total newbie here. Can't wait to get started. Been lurking on this forum, you guys are awesome. I'll attempt to keep this brief, and ask a handful of questions at the same time. Just bought a 5-year old Breckwell P23 insert, original owner, excellent condition. Initially was going to pay a pro to install, now I'm thinking why do that. Here's my game plan, please comment and critique.

1) figure out liner length needed and order double-wall, smooth ID, 316SSTi flex liner.

2) reputable local company just rebuilt chimney from roofline up. These guys told me that wrap-insulating my 4" diameter liner is NOT necessary, not really value-added.

3) stove exhaust is 3" and vents straight back. Plan on getting 90 degree elbow increaser from 3" to 4". Same guys told me in CT anything over 15ft requires 4" min diameter to meet code.

4) should I plan on doing some sort of flue insulation (panel?), and how do I do this?


That's it for starters, hope to purchase the liner online early next week and get this thing fired up. Got a few bags of Chow to get started! Much appreciate any guidance you gurus can provide.
 
A little help here maybe;em? Expected some feedback by now...thanks!
 
Patience. This isn't a call center. ;lol
 
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Folks settle in at night and fire up their keyboards.
 
fireitup said:
Total newbie here. Can't wait to get started. Been lurking on this forum, you guys are awesome. I'll attempt to keep this brief, and ask a handful of questions at the same time. Just bought a 5-year old Breckwell P23 insert, original owner, excellent condition. Initially was going to pay a pro to install, now I'm thinking why do that. Here's my game plan, please comment and critique.

1) figure out liner length needed and order double-wall, smooth ID, 316SSTi flex liner.

2) reputable local company just rebuilt chimney from roofline up. These guys told me that wrap-insulating my 4" diameter liner is NOT necessary, not really value-added.

3) stove exhaust is 3" and vents straight back. Plan on getting 90 degree elbow increaser from 3" to 4". Same guys told me in CT anything over 15ft requires 4" min diameter to meet code.

4) should I plan on doing some sort of flue insulation (panel?), and how do I do this?


That's it for starters, hope to purchase the liner online early next week and get this thing fired up. Got a few bags of Chow to get started! Much appreciate any guidance you gurus can provide.
Click to expand...

I gather it's a masonry chimney, so in that case I don't know why you would need double wall liner. Just single 4" stainless flex should work fine, pellet rated.. No need to insulate it. Most people put a block off plate at the smoke shelf and most insulate over the plate but not around the liner. Cap the top of the chimney, put a wind/rain lid over the vent. Usually you can adapt right off the flange on the stove to 4"..
 
Thanks AH, this is the kind of confidence-building advice I'm looking for. Yes, masonry chimney. House built in 1805, 1800sqft. Brand new SS cap already in place on brand new chimney. Plan on cutting the liner flush with the chimney at termination. Since it's a 4" liner, is there hardware of some type needed to keep the liner centered rather than letting it list from side to side?
 
fireitup said:
Thanks AH, this is the kind of confidence-building advice I'm looking for. Yes, masonry chimney. House built in 1805, 1800sqft. Brand new SS cap already in place on brand new chimney. Plan on cutting the liner flush with the chimney at termination. Since it's a 4" liner, is there hardware of some type needed to keep the liner centered rather than letting it list from side to side?
Click to expand...
There is a top plate, a flat plate with collar that the flex protrudes up into and gets screwed in place, has lock screws to hold the flex in place and the top hat goes on the top of the collar ( this is what I have, though it's been a while since we put it in so it's a bit fuzzy as to exact design, iot may be the top hat that screwed to the flex). . My plate is RTV'd to the chimney top. My masonry is very old I didn't want to drill into it. The first week I ran my stove without a topper and the pipe looked funny sticking out the top of the chimney at an angle. It had not been trimmed back yet and my opening up there is probably 11x13 or so. So two ft of pipe stuck out at an angle. you don't want to cut your flex flush with the chimney top unless you have a different cap plate than mine. With mine you need some flex above the chimney top.

This is the hat design I have, though i don't recall paying this for it, it's for a 4" pipe though in my case and if you look around this site you will see the caps too: http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn...dian-304-Stainless-Steel-5-8-Mesh-Chimney-Cap
.
 
Last edited:
You might want to check your home insurance. A lot of insurance companies first ask "Was it professionally installed?".
 
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fireitup said:
1) figure out liner length needed and order double-wall, smooth ID, 316SSTi flex liner.

2) reputable local company just rebuilt chimney from roofline up. These guys told me that wrap-insulating my 4" diameter liner is NOT necessary, not really value-added.

3) stove exhaust is 3" and vents straight back. Plan on getting 90 degree elbow increaser from 3" to 4". Same guys told me in CT anything over 15ft requires 4" min diameter to meet code.

4) should I plan on doing some sort of flue insulation (panel?), and how do I do this?
Click to expand...

1) Double wall liners are nice, that's what I used as well. From what I've heard the single wall liners are more flexible and forgiving during installation so it's something to consider. Make sure you can fit the liner past your damper. Also buy longer than you think you'll need.

Also consider your installation method and safety. It's definitely a 2 person job. Are you ok with working on top of the roof juggling around a bundled up liner + tools? I rented a bucket lift which made the liner installation super easy and safe.

2) Correct that it's not necessary, pellet stoves are forced draft appliances.

3) The manufacturer will specify at what length requires to go from a 3 " to 4" liner. Check the manual.

4) It's recommended to insulate behind the block off plate filling the space right above the fireplace damper.
 
Thanks all, I'm confident I can handle the install now more than ever. I've already checked out Chimney Liner Depot and Woodland Direct, both look real good. I have (2) flues, parallel of course, one vents my Burnham boiler, the other will be venting the insert from the dining room masonry fireplace. The chimney is brand new from the roofline up, it's rectangular in shape with the (2) flues, and has a brand new SS cap covering the whole thing. Has expanded metal sides. Can't I just make sure the liner is secured and centered? Shouldn't need a chase cap or anything else; I would think the main chimney cap will do just fine, no?
 
OK, so the top plate you've shown here should go on the liner at termination, and then reinstall the main cap on top. (similar photo here). cap.jpg
 
All sounds too easy ;) Thanks! Now to find a local retailer on Sunday that sells flexible SS liners!!!!;lol
 
One other small detail: don't forget to use high temp silicone around the top plate to flue, and run a bead around the gap between the liner and the tube on the top plate. You want to weather seal the top area as much as possible.

Good luck!
 
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