Trying to figure out how to run my vent pipe

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SingledadMI

New Member
Oct 17, 2014
33
Michigan
Hello everyone! This is my first post so please bare with me. I recently purchased my first pellet stove (Englander 25-PDVC) and had everything planned as to where I was going to put it etc., without even thinking about clearances I would need to meet on the outside. I only have 2 spots in my house where I would be able to do a through the wall install, the place I want to do it and a spot in my living room. I really don't want to put it in my living room do to it not really being a central location and I don't want to be sweating there and cold in my other rooms. The issue I have is if I do a corner install in my initial place, it would run out onto my back deck. I've read a lot of posts and still not sure how I could get around this. I can post photos a little later today. The only other option I can see is doing a through the roof install which I wanted to avoid also just for appearance purposes. I'm sure you guys will need more information and that photos will help, but any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Jesse
 
I must not have been clear enough, like I said I'm new :) I don't want to put the pellet stove on the back deck, the pipe itself would run through the wall and come out onto the deck. Here are a couple photos of the corner I'd like to put it in and of the outside. There's a small X where the pipe would come through the wall to the outside.
 

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Are you thinking of doing a 4' vertical rise on the outside? Also, is that side of the patio door stationary?
 
I don't know what stove make you have, but that door and window may pose an issue with clearances.

Is that the sliding door on that side or the stationary door?
 
It's an Englander 25-PDVC. The door slides towards that side. I initially measured from the door handle and thought I was good with the 4' clearance but now that I think about the side that doesn't slide could be considered a window? This is very frustrating :/
 
If the right side of the patio doesn't open, you're golden. Windows are fine as long as they are stationary or inoperable.
 
Ok, that's one positive :) But about the deck....is that too close to the deck being as that it's a "combustible"? That's my main concern now. If it is to close, could I run it up a few feet inside of the house and then run it out through the wall? Or would I then need 4" pipe? Thanks so much for the help!
 
So I'm good doing what I had initially planned? Just running it straight out where that X is and then going up? The clearance between the pipe and the deck isn't an issue? I guess the clearances in the manual kind of confuse me and I want to understand so if insurance has a question I can explain :) The only issue I can see is that if the pipe gets hot and it comes out by the deck it could be a safety issue if someone touched it? Thanks again for your help!
 
That was going to be my thought. Safety for anyone using the deck but if its cold enough to run the stove, I doubt the deck will be in use.
 
Right, we seldom use it anyway. I just wanted to be sure there weren't anything I was missing for insurance or clearance purposes before I went ahead and started putting it in.
 
I am installing a Harman in a corner like you and also venting out over a deck, I called Harman and asked if it was ok, the manual says 3' above a combustable surface (deck), they recommend at least 4' if not 5' for better draft, i am going to d 5'. Again this is what Harman recommends for their stoves.
 
Ok, maybe this is where my confusion is....are the clearances referring to where the termination end actually ends and not where the pipe is? That would make more sense to me now...
 
Ok, maybe this is where my confusion is....are the clearances referring to where the termination end actually ends and not where the pipe is? That would make more sense to me now...
The "termination" is the end of the pipe: the cap. I believe Englander's manual says the pipe needs to terminate at least 2 feet above combustibles. Your vertical rise will give you that clearance.
Your vent pipe manufacturer will specify the combustible clearance to the sides of the pipe. It's probably just a few inches.
 
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The "termination" is the end of the pipe: the cap. I believe Englander's manual says the pipe needs to terminate at least 2 feet above combustibles. Your vertical rise will give you that clearance.
Your vent pipe manufacturer will specify the combustible clearance to the sides of the pipe. It's probably just a few inches.


I believe its one or two therefore you should be fine.
 
Ok, I'm finally getting ready to install (Had to order the piping online) and I ran into another issue. There just happens to be a 2x4 directly in the center of where my thimble was going to go. The only 2 options I see, are I can move the thimble over, which I think will throw off the clearance on the one side of my stove but I haven't checked yet...or cut the stud. What are everyones thoughts or ideas??
 
Ok, I'm finally getting ready to install (Had to order the piping online) and I ran into another issue. There just happens to be a 2x4 directly in the center of where my thimble was going to go. The only 2 options I see, are I can move the thimble over, which I think will throw off the clearance on the one side of my stove but I haven't checked yet...or cut the stud. What are everyones thoughts or ideas??

Yep, that's pretty much your only options. Could you use a couple of 45 degree pipe bends to redirect your vent without moving your stove? Your other option would be cutting the stud and framing out an opening for the thimble.
 
Ok, I'm finally getting ready to install (Had to order the piping online) and I ran into another issue. There just happens to be a 2x4 directly in the center of where my thimble was going to go. The only 2 options I see, are I can move the thimble over, which I think will throw off the clearance on the one side of my stove but I haven't checked yet...or cut the stud. What are everyones thoughts or ideas??

Cut a 32" section of drywall out and put your king and jack with header to allow the span over the missing stud... essentially just frame it like you would be putting in a window.

If it's not a load bearing wall... just cut it out.
 
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