25-EP soot glass and huge flame

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My house isn't tight, it burns really well the way it is lol.

Actually from your descriptions of your burn I'd say there is an Air/Fuel mismatch possibly of the low air kind, indicating the influence of a number of possible causes that just may be eliminated by having that oak installed. Before playing with the stove's controls. I would want to rule out the current incorrect installation but that is just me.
 
Crack a window in the room the stove is in for a while.
 
Actually from your descriptions of your burn I'd say there is an Air/Fuel mismatch possibly of the low air kind, indicating the influence of a number of possible causes that just may be eliminated by having that oak installed. Before playing with the stove's controls. I would want to rule out the current incorrect installation but that is just me.

Burned a few times with the OAK, some sooty windows. In just a gray soot, and it gradual builds up over hours of running. It mainly covers the L panels and about 50% of my front panel. Comes off easy enough. I adjusted my settings to 2-5-1. I should also mentioned the large flame issue stops soon after start up and comes down to a good size.
 
I have an EP, and as someone else mentioned it doesn't seem to like running really low. I moved it up to 3 (heat range) and it burns beautiful. With GTP's the flame is impressively large just on 3 and certainly no need to go higher until real cold weather hits. The glass won't stay perfectly clean for very long but certainly more so at 3 then the lower 2 settings. I measured over 300 degrees output air temp this morning burning the GTP's on heat range 3/ blower speed 5 !!! It was cranking :)
 
I have a new 25 EP and run it over nite on 1/2 and some time during the nite it went out , still had pellets in hopper but not alot , why did this happen and should i tweak the LBA
 
I have a new 25 EP and run it over nite on 1/2 and some time during the nite it went out , still had pellets in hopper but not alot , why did this happen and should i tweak the LBA

How much is not a lot? It is possible that those that were left just didn't get to the auger and thus your stove went out due to lack of fuel. They do shut down when no pellets show up in the burn pot.
 
Mine did that several times when I first got it, running at heat range 1. I bumped the LBA up to 5 and it helped, but still did it one more time. I was running crappy pellets and I think the combo of low quality pellets combined with idling it did not like. Running it at 2 or above I've never had a problem again. As Smokey mentioned running low on pellets (especially at a very low feed rate) can cause the problem. The pellets don't slide very well at all in that hopper and it will just eat a hole in the middle, as I'm sure you've noticed. For this reason I like to top it off before I go to bed so that doesn't happen in the night.
 
Mine did that several times when I first got it, running at heat range 1. I bumped the LBA up to 5 and it helped, but still did it one more time. I was running crappy pellets and I think the combo of low quality pellets combined with idling it did not like. Running it at 2 or above I've never had a problem again. As Smokey mentioned running low on pellets (especially at a very low feed rate) can cause the problem. The pellets don't slide very well at all in that hopper and it will just eat a hole in the middle, as I'm sure you've noticed. For this reason I like to top it off before I go to bed so that doesn't happen in the night.
If the fire is burning out at a low burn, the LBA needs to be decreased not increased. Increasing LBA will cause the fire to burn faster. Decreasing the LBA will reduce the burn rate of the fuel, making it last longer.
Alternatively LFF could be increased to provide more fuel. That would result in a larger fire at low burn settings.
 
If the fire is burning out at a low burn, the LBA needs to be decreased not increased. Increasing LBA will cause the fire to burn faster. Decreasing the LBA will reduce the burn rate of the fuel, making it last longer.
Alternatively LFF could be increased to provide more fuel. That would result in a larger fire at low burn settings.

It needs more air at the low settings .: increase LBA
 
It needs more air at the low settings .: increase LBA
Perhaps I'm confused. Is the fire "going out" or is it "Burning out"? There is a big difference. I can't tell from the posts above which is the complaint.
 
I believe going out, getting smothered.... as far as I can tell but I have been known to be wrong according to my wife...
 
It ran on 1 all nite I checked at 6am and was out fan and green on light still on. Checked hopper Still had pellets but auger cavity was not full perhaps maybe the auger was starved. Causing not enough fuel to maintain a burn
 
High/low mode is for t-stat as is the On/Off mode. High/ low means the stove runs at whatever you set it at for feed rate when the t-stat calls for heat, when the t-stat is satisfied, the stove drops down to heat range 1 (blower stays wherever you had it set). In On/Off mode, it works like a furnace: when the t-stat calls for heat it turns on at whatever you have it set at, when the t-stat is satisfied, the stove goes into shutdown. Typically On/Off is more appropriate for the fall/ spring while High/Low is better suited for winter. Startup and shutdown take 15 minutes each, so you don't want it doing that all the time when the weather is really cold. Conversely you don't want the stove running all the time when the weather isn't very cold. It burns dirty on heat range 1 and will still overheat you.

I highly recommend getting a t-stat with an adjustable swing setting for this stove, you can dial it in to limit the amount of times it cycles on and off by setting it wider then you would with a furnace. When running in high/ low mode you can keep it more tightly controlled since you won't have startup and shutdown to deal with.
 
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