So I am back to the original issue before I had a company do a horrible job of cleaning my stove...flame won't ignite and it fire won't stay lit even when I use a gel to try to get the fire going, it flames out.. Thanks for all the help so far... Think I am getting closer to having a fire.
Harman P68 auger won't run
- Thread starter Aaww815
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Harman Lover 007
Minister of Fire
Geez I hope so.... Ok put the settings back to what your sheet says...we're still chasing the vacuum issue I think. Does the auger run more than a couple seconds in test mode??
So...trying to light stove with gel...flame dies out... Auger just turning on quick and then off.. So frustrating. Before if I lit in manual the stove would smoke up then a fire would start... Nothing now But auger turning on quick and no smoke in the box
....guess it's time to try to change out door and ash burn door gasketsOk... I have it running in stove temp mode using gel to start the fire! I have a fire and auger is feeding pellets. I swapped the esp probe connection on the board...maybe that made a difference? I also adjusted the front door to make it a tighter fit. Still think I have a dip switch issue and maybe the igniter is bad...
Good to see you running. Hard to tell if either or both the recent changes impacted the burn or not at all. Try not to throw the kitchen sink at it all at once without testing each change individually. Id be curious to hear what your procedure is for lighting manually. If the manual light didn't get hot enough, the ESP may not allow pellets to flow.
From the manual:
Feed motor will not run until the ESP control senses a certain temperature. Maybe you did not put enough fuel or starting gel in the burn pot before manually lighting the fire.
Even If you can keep the stove running, you likely still have a dirty stove and likely a burnt out igniter.
From the manual:
Feed motor will not run until the ESP control senses a certain temperature. Maybe you did not put enough fuel or starting gel in the burn pot before manually lighting the fire.
Even If you can keep the stove running, you likely still have a dirty stove and likely a burnt out igniter.
So..stove is running great in stove temp mode..still worries me that it was hard to start up and I had to start with gel and in stove temp mode. I do think the igniter is toast and really think I need to change the gaskets on glass and ash door. Esp probe I hope is ok....
Harman Lover 007
Minister of Fire
Is your room sensing probe connected properly? If that is bad it won't fire up in room temp mode. It should however try to start and fill the burnpot with pellets. Then when it doesn't light your status light should blink a code.
If the door doesn't pass the dollar bill test, then you should replace the door gasket. The glass gasket does not normally require any maintenance unless you had to change the glass. The door passes the test or it doesn't. I don't know how you adjusted a door that contains a glued gasket without manipulating the gasket itself.
I switched the connection on the board for the esp probe..
Harman Lover 007
Minister of Fire
Thanks for all the help
...I had a warm fire going all night last night... It was running great, cleaning out the fines box was key.. Surprised the outfit I had that just cleaned my stove didn't clean it out.Couple things, i started it with gel in stove temp mode, would go in room temp mode. I pretty sure my igniter is shot, and I am going to order replacement gaskets for front door and ash door. I was able to adjust the glass door for a tighter fit that helped. I do have a question and maybe someone can put a pic up, could my esp probe be connected backward on the board or does it not matter? Curious about that, just want to double check I have everything connected ok.
mepellet
Minister of Fire
dhall28
Burning Hunk
The ESP should only be able to be plugged in one way on the board by design of the small plastic parts, but I am almost positive it should not matter which way you plug it in. You test the ESP's by checking the electrical resistance as you heat them up and let them cool. I believe but am not 100% sure the board is using the electrical resistance to tell it what the temperature is in which case the resistance is the same in both directions and i wont matter which way it is plugged in.
thank you... Have a question out there I am hoping someone can answer for me. Is it difficult to change out the igniter on the p68 Harman. I just got my replacement and are trying to find the connection point for the igniter leads...
dhall28
Burning Hunk
it takes a little bit of time but it is not a huge difficulty, the blue and yellow wires going to the bottom right corner of the feed box (looking at the stove from the back) are what hook up to you ignitor. cut the zip ties holding extra slack of these two wires, takes the ignitor out of the front and pull the wires out the front of the stove till you see the connections.
Found the wires in the back of the stove... But having a hard time figuring out how to take out the igniter... Silver plate that the igniter is being held in. How to you take it off???
Before you replace the igniter did you unscrew the two small wing type nut screws under the burn pot and pull the plate up and off. Pull the ash pan and access it thru there. Many times that will fill up with ash too and the igniter won't work. If they didn't clean the fines out there is a possibility they didn't clean there either. Quick and easy check. Stick your fingers in there and pull junk out then vac up.
Yes... I did that and have cleaned out this area in the past...thanks..now trying to figure out how to take the igniter out.. Not easy
dhall28
Burning Hunk
directly above the access plate is two 5/16" screws, either a socket and ratchet or just a small wrench will work well. once those two screws are out the bracket that holds the igniter should be able to be pulled out.
Harman Lover 007
Minister of Fire
His is an older stove, 2008 I believe. I don't think he will have those screws. I've seen some P models with them and some without. The igniter sits in a cradle and it takes a bit of finesse to wiggle it out but it's doable. Have patience Aaww815, you'll get it. If someone didn't say it already it comes out from the front, just be careful when pulling the wires through....
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