I have a classic bay 1200 and I am having troubles keeping the thing going for more than three or four hours, I do a good yearly cleaning at the end of the heating season all except for removing the feed auger, the vacuum hose is blowable thru the chimney is clear it goes thru the wall 18" down 2' and horizontel 10', not sure how to access the control box to see the flashing lights, sure would be nice to wake up to a warm house, and I am an electrician so I understand most of this stuff but controls is not my strong point
First time poster, having troubles
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pell it
Feeling the Heat
Are you saying that your vent pipe goes 18" horizontal thru a wall, DOWN 2 feet, then horizontal 10 feet. If so, that is your problem
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nksdad2007
Member
x2Are you saying that your vent pipe goes 18" horizontal thru a wall, DOWN 2 feet, then horizontal 10 feet. If so, that is your problem
I have had this stove and set up for probly 10 years and have had no problems yet, it it running right now it's 7:00 and it's been on for two and a half hours, end of chimney faces north at ground level and we get alot of northwest winds from lake michigan, not to argueAre you saying that your vent pipe goes 18" horizontal thru a wall, DOWN 2 feet, then horizontal 10 feet. If so, that is your problem
railfanron
Minister of Fire
What heat/fan switch settings are you using when it fails? If the Fan is on low, try using high to see if it runs longer.
I'll ignore your downward exhaust for now... except for one thing: are you absolutely sure the exhaust vent pipe is clear of ash?
Control Box: Remove the right side panel to get to it. You say the stove is around 10 years old. That's about the time that Quad changed the control box LEDs (your original manual will describe which you have). These LEDs are on the control box itself, the larger thermostat call-for-heat light is nearby.
The older stoves like mine have a green LED (on when thermocouple is above 200) and red LED (on when thermocouple above 600).
The newer boxes have a blue LED that blinks once every ten seconds when you first plug-in the stove, and a combined green/red/amber LED that acts like the old separate red & green LEDs (it will blink amber if the thermocouple is bad).
What does your manual say about Snap Disc #2, is it manual reset?
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
oliveone
Burning Hunk
Well mod you can censor me,but I am calling bull**** on this poster
why? please let us know what you think.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Exhaust going down two foot and then horizontal ten foot after going through wall eighteen inches?But maybe I missed something,clue me in please.If so I will make ammends.
oliveone
Burning Hunk
LOLThe Mrs. says we have had this stove since 08 and when we first got it it didnt start, the service guy can out and replaced something and it has worked great eversince, I installed everything and was not told that the chimney was wrong
I took the vent pipe apart and cleaned all the ash out, there was about 1/2" laying in the bottom of each horizantle section, I accessed the control box and when I plug it in a blue light flashes I pushed the reset button and it started, I saw no lights in the control box after the blue flashing light when I first plugged it in, my Mrs. say we got the stove in 08 when they first offered the home heating rebate, my manual says only snap disc #3 needs to be reset manually, #'s 1 & 2 I can see and they have no reset button on them
I just went back in the other room and there is a steady red light in the control box
just went back and the flame was out, there was a green light in the box and the call light was on
Was it still trying to feed pellets when the red light went out? What heat setting are you running it on? I assume the exhaust blower was running while the green light was on.
You'll have to be there when it fails, or at least close enough to hear when the pellets stop dropping. Then check for 120 Volts at the auger, and also across the vacuum switch and snap disc #2. Check each for at least 10 seconds.
Hey, I am back i read 122v at snap disc #2, about 18v intermittently at the vacuum sw, and havent figured out the auger since its a closed connector, thanks.
If you measured 120V across the two terminals of the snap disk... that says it was open. As a test, you can jumper it. How long did it take to stop feeding? And is the convection blower running?
I forgot to mention that some stoves also have a hopper lid switch that can interrupt power to the auger. Mine does not have this switch.
I do not have a hopper lid sw. or door sw. , by jumper u mean by passing the sw. and only a few minutes to stop feeding
Yes, by-pass the switch (just to test it). A few minutes? That's way too fast to trip that snap disk. If you have an IR thermometer, check the temperatures near that snap disk.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
You might want to see page 11 in the manual under B the termination must be above the air intake. Your EVL is 10 + 10 + 1.5 + a very large number the down 2 feet is not vertical from a venting stand point is is likely that the vacuum switch is saying enough is enough and the fire slowly dies. Down is not a valid vent direction and besides leading to vacuum switches saying not enough pressure difference the back pressure in the venting leads to the thermal protection in the exhaust blower to eventually trip which also leads to the vacuum switch opening and no pellets to fall. In addition all horizontal runs need to actually be slightly up bubble.
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