NC-30 cruising temps?

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SpAmSoNiTe

SpAmSoNiTe

Member
Mar 22, 2014
75
Jefferson, OH
Hey all, been running my NC-30 for about 5-6 fires now and its getting better to start and figure out the air control, but was just curious what temps everyone seems to run their stovetops at? I know everyone's setup is a little different, so your milage may vary.
Seems like once she gets going good, the secondaries light and it likes to get up to around 600 in a real hurry and doesn't like to come back down for a while.. Much slower reacting to input changes than the old smoke dragon I was used to. I know on my little Rutland thermometer this is the top of the burn zone, getting into "overfire".

I guess I'm wondering am I being a little conservative with it because it's still pretty new to me? I definitely know there is a learning curve here, just curious
 
BB can give you more specific guidance, but in general, 600-650F is cruising temp for these big stoves. Turn on the blower if you want to drop it down to a lower 500-550F or load less wood and burn hot, shorter fires.
 
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Hottest spot on the stove is the front of the step top in the middle. six to six fifty is pretty common cruising territory.
 
BrotherBart said:
Hottest spot on the stove is the front of the step top in the middle. six to six fifty is pretty common cruising territory.
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My thermo is right on the step so I can read from the couch. So she's just fine to run there for a few hours? How hot is "getting too hot for your comfort"area? I guess I was just really used to running my old paper-thin stove too cool.(perhaps that was why I was always cleaning out a ton of creo in the sprin from the old chimney LOL). and hunter, I've got an IR thermometer on the x-mas list :cool:
 
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Try to keep it under 700. I like to shoot for between 550 and 650. Cranking up a new or reload, start backing it down in steps around 450 or so and it will climb on up. Let it get down to 250-300 before loading a fresh load on hot coals to give you some operating room temp wise when the load takes off.
 
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BrotherBart said:
Try to keep it under 700. I like to shoot for between 550 and 650. Cranking up a new or reload, start backing it down in steps around 450 or so and it will climb on up. Let it get down to 250-300 before loading a fresh load on hot coals to give you some operating room temp wise when the load takes off.
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Yeah, I think I was backing it off too early . I would start around 350 backing to half-ish and then a few minutes later back it off to where the end of the small spring is even with the end of the ash lip.
 
Not an exact science. They all take a little personal touch due to different chimneys, outside temps, wood and on and on and on.
 
BrotherBart said:
Not an exact science. They all take a little personal touch due to different chimneys, outside temps, wood and on and on and on.
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Yeah, like everybody else says it's hard coming into the EPA stoves from an older style.. thanks for the comments though. I always like to have other people's input before I form my own opinions completely.
 
SpAmSoNiTe said:
Yeah, I think I was backing it off too early . I would start around 350 backing to half-ish and then a few minutes later back it off to where the end of the small spring is even with the end of the ash lip.
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That spring location for cruise is that same one I've been using. I like to run it hot, 600-700.

Oh and the thermometer location on the step so that you can read it from the room is exactly what I do too. My IR gun shows that to be the hottest spot.
 
I have found two things about my 30. 1. I can get that dude HOT and not worry about it too much. 2. You have to react early to keep it from overfiring.

I leave my thermo right in front of the step. I like to cruise at about 650 +/- 25. I don't worry about it until it's well over 750, even then, I just throw a fan on it and say a little prayer.
 
These stoves like the 650 700 range. different stove but mine can get to 750 if im not careful very easy but these steel stoves can handle those those temps.
 
As long as it's reading under 800 you're fine. Mine see's 700-750 for 30 minutes to an hour after each reload, then settles in between 600 and 700 for a couple more hours before the slow taper starts. Make sure your CTC's are good and don't be afraid to let it rip.
 
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Clearance To Combustibles. That it is installed correctly.

Be careful though, I have already melted the thin airwash plate above the door once. The stove wasn't hot for this to happen but full throttle heating up may be worse for it. I am quick to shut the air down from full throttle to 3/4 now to try and extend the life of that little plate piece.
 
Highbeam said:
Be careful though, I have already melted the thin airwash plate above the door once. The stove wasn't hot for this to happen but full throttle heating up may be worse for it. I am quick to shut the air down from full throttle to 3/4 now to try and extend the life of that little plate piece.
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Melted what? Can we get pics? That seems really excessive
 
The thin airwash plate that hangs out into the door opening from above. Mine sagged down a ways in the center. Heavily monitored stove, 700 or so temps. Under Englanders advisement I'm watching for movement after bending it back pretty much straight. It's really thin there like maybe 1/8" compared to 1/4 on my bk.
 
Did they ever change the thickness of that? Mine isn't what I'd call "thin" I've even in the 800s before and the thing seemed to be fine, even though I about died from newbie nervousness.
 
thanks for the replies all.. I think it's just newbie jitters since I'm usually a pretty cautious person with it. I do love the heat output on it and the fact that there are still tons of coals for a relight after 10-11 hours. Hopefully that will remain true when it actually gets "cold" out. lowest here so far in NE Ohio is mid-low 30's a few nights.
 
Come December and January you will be looking for 650-700F temps every reload.
 
Your not going to hurt that stove mine has seen 800 here and their past winter. That is why have a pipe damper in my flue call it my emergency brake puts a stop to secondary inferno when needed.
 
Spam I am just an hour or so north of you in Mid-Michigan and you should be pleased come cold time with the stove. Output of heat and burn times will remain the same no matter the outside temp - it will just depend on your level of insulation in your home as to how long it actually keeps it warm enough for 10hrs.
 
Highbeam said:
Clearance To Combustibles. That it is installed correctly.

Be careful though, I have already melted the thin airwash plate above the door once. The stove wasn't hot for this to happen but full throttle heating up may be worse for it. I am quick to shut the air down from full throttle to 3/4 now to try and extend the life of that little plate piece.
Click to expand...

This is good advice. On startup, I usually have the door cracked a couple inches (from a cold start) until the wood is aflame, then I shut and latch the door with the primary air wide open. I usually only leave it set like that for 2-5 minutes, then back it down to 2/3-3/4 open for another 5-10 minutes, then close it down from there. I do try to minimize the time I run with the primary air fully open unless I am down to nothing but coals and am burning them down.
 
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800 pffft. Screwed up a few years ago and ran it to 1,000 ::F. Airwash plate is straight as a ruler to this day. Had to throw the underwear in the stove during the next burn though.
 
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I know high stove temps didn't melt the airwash plate, it had to be full throttle heat up.
 
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