Eko Heat Exchanger Cleaning Tool
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PassionForFire&Water
Minister of Fire
I always like to see videos like this.
Just one question: why the o-ring at the top?
Would it not be easier to put the rebar rod into a cordless drill?
Just one question: why the o-ring at the top?
Would it not be easier to put the rebar rod into a cordless drill?
Yes, it would be easier. But, unfortunately on my installation I do not have room for a drill or any other type of power tool.
I just recently learned from this Forum that the OEM cleaning mechanism does not do a very good job.
I removed all the "junk" and will perform weekly manual cleanings. If I had known that the cleaning system on the Eko was not very good when I purchased the unit, I would have installed pipes in a different manner.
The ring at the top allows me to apply greater torque than just grabbing the rebar.
When I removed the turbulators I found a fairly heavy coating on the heat exchanger tubes that the cleaning mechanism had not removed. It took me quite a while to remove all the residue.
Other Eko owners have removed the turbulators completely and installed lengths of chain; for now I will stay with turbulators.
I did a test firing after the cleaning and noticed a definite improvement on water temperature rise and lower stack temps.
Check out my other videos on YouTube regarding other improvements I have made to this unit!
Thanks for the comment!
I just recently learned from this Forum that the OEM cleaning mechanism does not do a very good job.
I removed all the "junk" and will perform weekly manual cleanings. If I had known that the cleaning system on the Eko was not very good when I purchased the unit, I would have installed pipes in a different manner.
The ring at the top allows me to apply greater torque than just grabbing the rebar.
When I removed the turbulators I found a fairly heavy coating on the heat exchanger tubes that the cleaning mechanism had not removed. It took me quite a while to remove all the residue.
Other Eko owners have removed the turbulators completely and installed lengths of chain; for now I will stay with turbulators.
I did a test firing after the cleaning and noticed a definite improvement on water temperature rise and lower stack temps.
Check out my other videos on YouTube regarding other improvements I have made to this unit!
Thanks for the comment!
Fred61
Minister of Fire
I was one of the guys that went with the chains but only for convenience. I tried both the turbs and the chains and logged no difference in performance so I say you're good to go with the OEM turbs. Glad to hear that someone else is as crazy as I am. I sheepishly confessed here that I also reduced the diameter of my brush with a bench grinder.
henfruit
Minister of Fire
I was thinking, if the tool is 3 feet long. A flexible boiler brush on a cordless should work? That is how I do mine. I clean every three to four weeks in the winter. Good dry wood = no build up. I have always had my doubts about how well those turbs keep the tubes clean.I like your drill chuck idea.
Fred61
Minister of Fire
My conclusion on the turbulators in the Eko is that they weren't serious about making a good working turb from the start. If they had been serious they would have made something like a corkscrew that was wrapped around a mandrel with closer proximity to the walls of the tube instead of taking a ribbon of steel and putting a twist on it. Their shortcut actually made all that other claptrap they hung in there useless as well as having a turb that doesn't really do the job that it is intended to perform.
cityboy172
Feeling the Heat
I rigged up a similar wheel. I threaded the wire wheel for 1/4", got a 1/4x3/8 rod coupling, and used a piece of 3/8 rod. The amount of build up I got out was disgusting. I knew it was going to be bad as I started pulling turbulators and the were all fighting me, with several stuck ones. It was a used boiler though, I will never let it get that bad again.
Medman
Feeling the Heat
Thanks for the good ideas here. I'm in the process of replumb and adding storage (plumbing done, chasing leaks now) and I also dismantled the turb mechanism to clean. Do you put the turbs back in after, and if so, do you connect the entire linkage? I'm thinking that it would be easier to just hang them in there and discard the linkage, making it easier to remove the turbs when necessary for cleaning. those cotter pins are in hard spots to reach.
I hear you on the piping being in the way - I spent 5 seasons fighting to clean the tubes with pipes in the way. Now I have them routed to the side so that I can access the hx with no obstructions.
I hear you on the piping being in the way - I spent 5 seasons fighting to clean the tubes with pipes in the way. Now I have them routed to the side so that I can access the hx with no obstructions.
cityboy172
Feeling the Heat
I plan on just hanging my turbulators in there, and disregarding the mechanism on the advice of some other members here.
Medman
Feeling the Heat
I was thinking the same thing. I will just cover the rectangular hole in the side with a blank plate.
cityboy172
Feeling the Heat
Fred61
Minister of Fire
BoiledOver
Minister of Fire
Ya might want to use some sealant when you do that, if not you will see smoke out of that area.
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