My Gasification build

BoilerMan said:

When I added secondary air tubes to my previous boiler I used mild steel. They could not take the heat at all, lasted about one cord before turning into bananas. I sourced some 304SS tubing, drilled it and they lasted much better. Just FYI.

Also, depending on how your doors hold up, you can use Varmiculite sheets for some insulation.

TS

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Were the tubes "free", not in firebrick? I could see that warping. I plan on firebricking the tube in place, should keep it from warping I think.

NHcpa said:

Binfordw, what is your background? This isn't a weekend warrior project...

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I work maintenance at a local factory- but at home I run a tiny business making airgun targets. I made my plasma table 4-5 years ago to be able to cut my own parts, and that's about it. I do some occasional plasma jobs for local shops, but its often sporadic.

Buzz Saw said:

Made your own table? Can you give me some details on what motors/drives and software you are using? Perhaps a link to point me in the right direction. Thanks! BTW your workmanship is awesome.

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Thanks Buzz Saw, I sent you a PM. (Or a conversation, I assume its the same thing here)

I scored a large amount of free used firebrick and fiberboard from work a few days ago. I've spent the past few days making a HUGE mess, cutting used bricks back into uniform shapes.

I set up an old chop saw to make the cutting easy.



Its a big mess, but I like this brick better anyway, plus, I can return the unused brick I bought.

salecker said:

Hi binfordw
I was working on my Ecocnoburn last night getting ready to replace the nozzle.I took note that there were 3 rows of stays on each side of the boiler just in the firebox,and 2 rows on the back wall.The back wall is shorter because of the flue.I know there are additional rows in the lower chamber as well.
Just an observation
Thomas

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I appreciate the suggestion, I would prefer more supports, and I may still add 3 more per side.

Chicken Farmer said:

I'd be interested in the same information. I also work factory maintenance. Buying a plasma table is for sissies.

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I sent you the same info

So now I have my pad poured, and about half of my tubing buried. I finished the exhaust stack, and got it welded into place. I also welded in 2 in's and 2 out's, 1" fittings for my pumps and returns. The pump fittings have tubes that run through the water jacket towards the front, and are braced internally.

While I wont fully make the end of month deadline, it still feels like a victory. The pad really needs a week to cure anyway I'd say, before sitting 2500+ lbs on it. I plan to move this beast 2 weeks from now, and get it sit on the pad. Then hopefully same weekend get the enclosure built and insulated. That gives me 2 weeks to finish all the loose ends, which I feel pretty good about.

Won't be long now!

maple1 said:

I think I would have gone bigger on the piping fittings.

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Why? I felt 1" was reasonable, as one 1" feeds house (which is fairly small), and the other 1" feeds shop.

maple1 said:

Easier pumping and more heat moving capacity? That's without knowing your heatloads and how far away they are though.

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Thats why I felt 1" was suitable, my house is small, 1700 sq/ft, and 85 ft from boiler. Shop is 36x45 and right at boiler, but main heat will be 2 back rooms that are about 16x16' each.

Regardless, I already have 1" pex tubing, so its a done deal. 1.25" would have put me in the poor house from the prices I saw anyway. Seems the majority of people use 1", even for much much larger spaces, so surely its suitable for what I'm doing.

bmblank said:

1" at 85 ft seems like it'd be quite the pressure drop. Gotta remember 1" pex is close to 3/4" I.d.

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More like 7/8" really

New Updates to the build thread

http://www.outdoorboilerforums.com/viewforum.php?f=2


I'm within 2 weeks of moving it to the pad now. Spent some time tonight reworking the latches to a simpler design (which I really like), and testing the final seams at the top for leaks.

All thats left now really is a few more bricks/mortar in the secondary, cut the floor plates, cut/weld the top cover on the water jacket, add a fill port and the water level float, and thats about it.