3/8 low pro vs .375 chain and bar

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Danno77

Minister of Fire
Oct 27, 2008
5,008
Hamilton, IL
If I buy a bar that is labeled 3/8 lo pro x .050 and then I buy a chain that is .375 x.050 that should work, right? What makes a lo-pro bar? There's no difference in drive, right? Just on the cutter, etc height?
 
Drive link same between them - Tie strap same between them - I'm not seeing any difference other than the cutter.
 
Although the pitch as measured between rivets (every other rivet to be precise) is the same, the geometry of the drive links is different and REQUIRES different drive and bar tip sprockets for proper function and normal wear.

There was a good thread with pictures on AS regarding this a few years ago, but it may have been lost in their site crash last year.

EDIT: Here it is. Scroll down to post #9 by MCW.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/3-8-lo-pro-and-3-8-sprocket-differences.107256/
 
Last edited:
My google was defective. Thanks for finding that for me. That clears it up!
 
FWIW, I put a Picco / LP setup (bar, chain, sprocket) on my 026, and it's really nice. I have a loop of 63PS, and just made up a couple loops of Oregon 91VX for it too. This saw is stock, except that it has a thinner base gasket to set the squish...

 
I was looking to upgrade the bar & chain on my MS170. Am currently looking at moving to a .325 now that I know more about the 3/8 LP information posted above. Requires a new sprocket, but then my chain would match my MS250 and my 028WB and I could make my own loops. I don't really have anything against the LP or Picco business stuff. It's probably the best suited thing for this saw, but I like messing with crap and I hardly use the saw, but I think a 12" bar would be great even with the different chain.
 
I stand corrected. I was looking at the Oregon site and comparing the 91VX (Low Profile) and the VXL spec sheets. Same drives, same ties. Weird.
(Even weirder, why would you not label your low pro cutter with an "L" and leave the "L" off on your standard cutter?)
 
I stand corrected. I was looking at the Oregon site and comparing the 91VX (Low Profile) and the VXL spec sheets. Same drives, same ties. Weird.
(Even weirder, why would you not label your low pro cutter with an "L" and leave the "L" off on your standard cutter?)

The L in 91VXL stands for "long,". 91VXL is the more recent model, and has longer cutters than the earlier 91VX. I only know this because I recently acquired a roll of 91VX via Craigslist.
 
Ok, thanks for clearing that up. Makes sense. I'm outta my league here. :)
Going back to lurk mode for a little while. :cool:
 
Danno... where are you finding a 12" .325 bar for that 170? I've been thinking the same thing for my 017/170 frankin-saw, but only find the .325 in 16" + bars (I'm leaning to a 14")
 
Dunno yet. I'll have to get back to you. Probably a woodlandPRO from baileys if they exist in those specs...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.