Is There Normal Remnant Creosote Buildup After Sweeping?

everfrost said:

Should I sweep again?

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I wouldn't worry about it but I'm sure that's a minority opinion

Did you sweep with a metal or poly brush?

I wouldn't worry too much about it . . . unless it's that hard, glassy creosote coating.

If you are worried about it a metal brush would probably clean it off better.

bholler said:

Also what type of chimney is it? A liner of prefab?

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I want to know that, and also how many times you swept up/down. I assume you made multiple passes before giving up and saying it was stuck. I would try really hard to scrub off with multiple passes/metal brushes before I resulted to chemicals.

Bigg_Redd said:

I wouldn't worry about it but I'm sure that's a minority opinion

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I agree with you Redd if it is as he says (a few small spots, especially at the top few feet of your chimney were it is cool).

Not to hijack, but i use metal brush on my duravent elbows and notice the scratches. Is this really a problem? Does it really contribute to more creosote buildup? The sooteater gets used on the rest of the class a pipe.

bholler said:

it is not an issue with creosote buildup it is an issue of corrosion from the carbon steel.



Supervent is not triple wall sorry but it bothers me when insulated chimney and triple wall are mixed up they are very different products with very different performance characteristics

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Better to use a brush with SS bristles? Probably too late on the elbows. Thanks

My father installed a Class A selkirk metalbestos chimmy 25yrs ago.He cleaned with a black steel brush twice a year since day one,The smoke dragon days, With no ill affects. When I bought my sisters 1/2 of the house after he passed. I replaced the smoke dragon with a PE Spectrum for cleaner longer burn time's. The only piece of pipe replaced was the first 4 ft section at the ceiling box the reason was a sloppy fit of the twist-loc pipe connector for the stove pipe. I could not remove the old twist-loc connector. so I went up to the first joint removed the retainer band and was able to untwist that section with help of my son, dropped in a new 4ft section with a new pipe connector in. Re-seated the twist connector put the band back on connected my double wall stove pipe. Had it reinspected, Job Done. I could not see any corrosion in the old pipe at all nice shinny clean? I still use the steel brush to this day. I only have to clean once a year now, I get may-be a cup full give or take a bit depending on my wood quality. So I'm not sure I buy into that issue of corrosion from the carbon steel brush. Jay

everfrost said:

I'll try to answer all the questions...used poly brush up and down many times. Unable to see deep into chimney, but noticed buildup in top few feet at least. Chimney is triple wall Selkirk SS SuperVent. Metal brush is not recommended due to scratching inside of pipe. Thanks for all the replies thus far.

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If it were mine, I would let it be and try to alter my burning practices. If the build up gets thicker, then I would consider some type of removal (mechanical or chemical).

Good news? You're aware of creosote problems and want to do something about it (and you can).

Bad (slightly) news? Even a minor buildup of the flaky stuff means you can do better with either the wood or technique.

If you have any of the hard, shiny creosote under the flaky stuff, that indicates a more serious problem than needs to be addressed.. Even worse would be the drippy, liquid creosote which means a bad problem, but apparently that's not seen here. Here's one of many sites describing creosote stages that may help. http://askthechimneysweep.com/2010/11/the-three-stages-of-creosote/

When I clean my chimney with a SootEater, all I get is a little soot and clean pipe.

What model stove and flue situation (height etc), and what is the wood supply? Have you confirmed the moisture content of the wood (like with a moisture meter)? It sounds like you have a bit of a problem, but one that can be addressed.