What are My options

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

10-cc

Member
Nov 28, 2008
129
St-Bruno, Quebec, Canada
I have an 8" diameter chemney but my summit has a 6" flue collar. I am thinking to replace the summit as it does not perform well probably to this setup.
Where can I find a list of wood stoves that are desiged for an 8" diameter flue.

Thanks for help.
 
A couple off the top of my head, Blaze King King, Kuma Sequoia, Bucks big stove, forget the model number.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rickb
The PE's are usually very easy breathers. If there is one 6" stove that would work on an oversized flue I would think it is the Summit. Just switching to a larger stove may not solve your problem when the chimney is really inadequate.

What exactly is your problem and what kind of flue do you have (masonry chimney, class A-pipe etc.)? Insulated? How tall is the chimney? Any bends/elbows? Are there less problems with colder weather? Do you have an airtight house? Maybe an outside air kit would help.
 
I'm having one( summit) installed to replace a reg buck , also 8" flue and found after measuring my flue that I'll have to add 2' toget it too code and better draft. Not to repeat what Grisu posted but what r u temps there?
 
Thanks,
Pb. I have is coaling specialy in the back of the box. Draft is exelent, 30' of class A running almost sreit up inside the house also wood is sougar Maple and 2 years dry. I notice the buffle crack inthe middle front and bent too.

Thank again
 
Sounds like the Summit may be performing above the call of duty. What is being heated? How large an area and how well insulated?
 
It heat fine but it coal like crazy in th back, th bottom wood stay almost unburned like if it was not dry wood but it is. In the front no problems the wood burn lik it suppose to. After the wood in the front turns into hashes I have to open all the way the air inlet so the back wood will burn better or open the stove and move the unburn coals to the front.
 
Do you leave a layer of ash (~1") in the stove when cleaning? What are the stovetop temps at peak and when you have the coals in the back? When after reloading do you feel the need to open up the air?
 
do you load your wood N-S or E-W?
 
Heavy coaling for me in the T6 is usually an issue with the wood moisture, but maybe this is also the wood species? How is the T6 buring? Same or different?
 
Ok, I always leave a layer of hash in the Box.
Peak temps around 800F on top of the stove in the middle can go to 1000 easily but I avoid it. I only burn N-S.
After about 2 hours of good burning with secondaries going, the flames dies and I get only red hot coals in the front but the back does not get any air so it seems that is why the coals there are not red and not decreasing to hashes as in the front the coals eventually decrease into hashes.
Wood is dry 2 years sugar Maple, when re loading wood in the front on top of red coals, it take a minute or less for it to flame which shows me the wood is indeed dry.

As for the T6, I do not have this symptom at all, of caurse there are more coals left in the back then in the front but it is normal at this point.
Summit draft setup is much better then the T6. T6 has a 90 elbow, two 45 degrees elbows and exterior A class chimney 28'.
Symptoms are like if it was wet but it is not, to validate I intend to try bio logs in the back and check the behavior.
 
Last edited:
At 800 F you are starting to overfire the stove. I try to keep mine under 750 F for the peak. I guess that is the reason your baffle broke.

Only seeing flames for a few hours is normal. That it is only 2 hours in your case is because you are creating an inferno in there. The coaling stage is part of the burn cycle. The stove will still give out plenty of heat at the point. What are the the temps at about 4 hours?

Right now I think your problem is not your 8" flue or minimal draft but that the Summit is not sufficient for your heating needs. How much of a space are you trying to heat with it? You can try a larger stove but when pushing the Summit that hard is not enough I am not sure whether even a 4 cu ft stove will cut it.
 
Thanks Grisu,
I am not trying to fully heat up the house 2400 ft2 but only part of it and by the way it can heat up the whole house after 6 strait hours of burning b ut this is NOT the issue. I am only concern with the coaling issue. Like said, almost the entire back of a log stays buried under the coals in the back so I have to dig it out and place it in the front and open more air. To resume I have to babysit the stove increase air, move unburned coals to the front.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.