Thought I was over firing stove

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Cburke

Burning Hunk
Feb 24, 2014
138
Honeybrook Pennsylvania
So finally broke down and bought a laser thermometer to measure stove top temps on my timberwolf 2200 after reading how in accurate the magnetic thermometers are. And the results were shocking. I was gauging my burn by the magnetic thermo and stayin in the burn zone and the stove felt relatively speaking, kinda cold for what I expected out of a stove capable of heating a 2000 sq ft home. Everytime I let it get to the point of really pumping out heat, the magnetic thermo said I was in over fire zone (700 degrees or better) so tn I got the stove running to start warmin the house for the upcoming cold weekend here in the northeast,and used my new laser thermo and the results were shocking! Almost close to 45 degrees colder than what the magnetic thermo was reading. So I beleive I finally have found what this stove really can do heat wise considering the manual says 600 to 650 is ideal, and bc I was keeping it in the 500 to 550 range due to the magnetic thermo being way off I was missing out. Glad I found this out before the real cold sets in. Anyways thought I'd just share this found it very interesting!
 
I love my temp gun. It only takes a few seconds to find the hottest points on your stove. Great for knowing when roasting dogs are ready to turn. I flip mine at about 102.
 
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I love my temp gun. It only takes a few seconds to find the hottest points on your stove
X 2, They're great! Fun for other things around the house to. Just dont use it on the glass as you wont get a proper reading. Enjoy the stove!
 
Yep, they can be off quite a bit, but they should at least be consistent. I know when the needle is pointing to the 't' in 'Wasting fuel', I'm right where it should be ;lol
 
I think it's impressive that the bimetallic thermo was that CLOSE to what your IR gun showed. 45 degrees of variance is likely within their stated margin for accuracy. You also need to keep in mind that the temp of the stove under your thermo likely was 20-50 degrees different that the spot next to it, in front of it, etc. IR guns might be nifty, but they're overkill. Stove hot? Stack producing nothing but heat signature? Probe thermo good? That is all the information anyone should ever need to run a wood stove properly. We aren't sending these things to the moon, we're warming up a space.

Then again, I'm just a realist with a strong nose for BS.
 
Always figured the same as BCC . . . if it is 25-50 degrees difference . . . the difference is rather slight as long as you're "aiming" for the temp median.
 
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I've always used my magnetic thermometer on the stove pipe. I figure that if it stays within range, the rest of the stove will. I especially get concerned if it starts to creep up into the red zone....I take it back a bit and she runs pretty good.
 
YouStove hot? Stack producing nothing but heat signature? Probe thermo good? That is all the information anyone should ever need to run a wood stove properly. We aren't sending these things to the moon, we're warming up a space.

Then again, I'm just a realist with a strong nose for BS.

Well. Guess we can shut this site down now!;)
 
Well. Guess we can shut this site down now!;)
I think bs'ing is turning into a true way to pass the time when you have cabin fever...lol I love this website, even if I give info that's a little skewed, I get corrected and learn something new, that's what makes this site so valuable to me anyeway
 
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Checking with the IR gun I have vastly different temps at different places on the stove. But they are always in proportion to each other. All my magnetic gauge are close enough. Other than getting the cold house temp up, I don't have to run much more than 300, 400 maximum then cycle down. Running right at the maximum of the stove all the time seams stressful. For the stove and you.
 
Great input everyone! This is my first year with an EPA stove and still learning the ropes, stove temps burn times etc. it's a fun experience and glad I found this website for sure! Has taught me quite a bit!
 
When I do the weekly chimney burn out I overfire until the magnetic thermometer is no longer attracted to the chimney pipe and falls off. Not sure how hot that is but the needle goes all the way around and stops at the other side of the pin well before it falls. Then I shut the door and draft, open the cleanout, and listen to the creosote fall.
 
Common practice up here to keep the chimney clean. Also sacrifice a beer can on the coals during the middle of it. The burning aluminum helps to knock down the creosote. The connector pipe will glow a little, but the stainless steel liner inside the clay liner inside the block chimney doesn't have a problem. The whole process only lasts about 10 mins. A lot better than waiting till there is a bunch of build up and having to either clean a chimney at the peak of a 3 story 12-12 in the middle of winter or fire bottle rockets up the clean out to open it up.
 
Common practice up here to keep the chimney clean. Also sacrifice a beer can on the coals during the middle of it. The burning aluminum helps to knock down the creosote. The connector pipe will glow a little, but the stainless steel liner inside the clay liner inside the block chimney doesn't have a problem. The whole process only lasts about 10 mins. A lot better than waiting till there is a bunch of build up and having to either clean a chimney at the peak of a 3 story 12-12 in the middle of winter or fire bottle rockets up the clean out to open it up.

Oy vey . . .

One can only hope that this was written in jest . . .
 
Oy vey . . .

One can only hope that this was written in jest . . .

I don't think it was. I know some setups and wood they burn make a lot of creosote and regular hot burns are helpful. But I think just letin rip until the thermometers are pinned is not a great idea. A bit hard on the equipment.
 
If you are burning the stove so hot the magnet on the temperature probe dies that is not safe at all. Plus those things are like 10$ a pop and they don't re-magnetize.
 
I don't think it was. I know some setups and wood they burn make a lot of creosote and regular hot burns are helpful. But I think just letin rip until the thermometers are pinned is not a great idea. A bit hard on the equipment.

Since we burn up to 10 months out of the year, it's hard to get everything super seasoned but the wood is only hard maple, red oak, or hop hornbeam. Also, going through 8-10 cord in a year is going to build up a little creosote no matter what you do or use.
The magnet is fine, the steel stove pipe is just no longer magnetic above 1400F.
 
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