Whitfield shutting down after 30 mins

Does your stove think its on thermostat and heat isn't needed?

Read here my friend.........The Whitfield "Bible".....
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_operate/whitfield-pellet-stove-low-limit.htm

You are saying that it worked with the switch jumped, but not with the new switch?

Maybe they shipped you a high limit by mistake?

Or the high limit is closing too early. but then it wouldn't work jumped. New switch could be bad.

You posted before I edited my post. All the low limit switch does is connect the two wires, just like the jumper. Should be no control board involved here.

As I recall, Stovensen is the Whit guru, with several manuals as well. Perhaps private message him?

You can heat the switch with a lighter while monitoring the terminals with a meter - with the switch out of the stove.

Ranger72 said:

Yep, that is the plan for the morning. Thanks

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Ash behind where the switch mounts can prevent it from closing before the start up window expires.

Ranger72 said:

It seemed pretty clean, I also just cleaned the motors a few weeks ago. I did put a tiny bead of RTV on the mounting side of the new switch. I don't think that would interfere with anything though. I have to run to Home Dopey and pick up a new multimeter as apparently my old one sh#it the bucket.

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There should be nothing that gets between that switch and what it mounts against or behind where it mounts if it is a ceramic air stream the switches sensor can get covered in ash and fail to operate in time, if it mounts against the metal blower case the area behind the case where the switch mounts can become insulated (read not conduct the heat very well) by ash as well. Then we have the all seeing photo cell POF systems that usually get the fines, ash, lens scaring that leads to them not seeing the fire through the magical; mystery port such that even a good photo eye can't do its job.

Short of tc systems I think I just covered most older stoves. Dirt is the first thing I think of, those switches last through many thousands of cycles, as long as they don't use Bakelite (read plastic) switches in a high temperature application (which some do).

That would also explain why replacing the "bad" switch with a "good" one still doesn't work. Only since you used some RTV (a relatively good insulator, [read dirt ash etc...]) .......

I’m having simular issue with my Whitfield stove. I’ve tried jumpering the low limit switch and cleaned it. It worked for about 30min building up a supply of pellets in burn pan then stops feeding. Once it mostly burnt up the auger starts dumping pellets again.

Any help would be appreciated

Eunger62 said:

I’m having simular issue with my Whitfield stove. I’ve tried jumpering the low limit switch and cleaned it. It worked for about 30min building up a supply of pellets in burn pan then stops feeding. Once it mostly burnt up the auger starts dumping pellets again.

Any help would be appreciated

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I recommend you start a new thread,and put in make,model,year of stove.