Quadra Castile Problems

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Avalancheman

Avalancheman

Member
Jan 1, 2013
19
Southwest Missouri
My parents 2008 model Castile would not start up this season. It’s an insert in a 51 year old home. When I pulled it out to clean it I found the remaining pellets in the hopper had drawn moister and completely jammed the auger and about 2 inches up the auger tube. Jammed so bad that before I could remove the auger I had to take a screw driver and chip out the caked pellets that turned too caked saw dust.


I blew out the vacuum line cleaned the auger tube and reinstalled the auger with a new auger motor. Started the stove up and the auger won’t turn. I am getting four blinks of a blue light on the control box. Jump the wires together on the vacuum switch and the insert runs great.


Is the vacuum switch normally open or closed when tested? And I can’t find anything in the book that decodes the four blinks of the blue light. I think the vacuum switch is bad but would prefer to test it before I buy a new one for them.


I realize this will fix the problem for now but the real problem is how the moister got into the unit.
 
I believe the moisture comes from the air in the exhaust and/or OAK mainly in the summer. I know my installers told me to put moisture packets inside the stove when I chit it down in the spring. Below is a link from someone with similar issues that may help. Im sure some more knowledgeable people will be able to help if you dont figure it out on your own

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quadra-fire-castile-call-light-problem.10646/
 
How is the stove vented? If moisturemade it's way down the chimney there is probably no block off plate at the smoke shelf or at least roxul insulation. Also is there a cap on the top of the chimney?
 
Ranger72 said:
How is the stove vented? If moisturemade it's way down the chimney there is probably no block off plate at the smoke shelf or at least roxul insulation. Also is there a cap on the top of the chimney?
Click to expand...
There is no damper in an OAK or in the liner. Damp air in the summer can certainly makes its way into the stove. At least that is my understanding. A friend of mine has his direct vented and the inside of his rusted because no one told him to put a moisture packet inside the atove
 
The back of my Whitfield has minor rust because the previous owner just had the stove hooked up to a 6" liner that terminated about two feet after the smoke shelf. In the summer I could actually feel humid air coming out from around the stove. I installed a complete liner, capped at the top, siliconed up nicely and now no humid air enters my living room. My central air thanked my. Haha
 
You're problem makes sense. The problem he is having I think is moist air coming down the chimney liner, through the exhaust system, into the burn pot area and than up the auger shute. If pellets are left in there thwy will definately suck up the moisture.
 
Do they live in a humid area? I would be surprised for that to happen in one summer, but it is possible for sure.
 
The blue lights say what setting the control box is on. It is fine. By jumping the vac switch, and it runs, it is telling you, you either have vacuum problem, or bad vac switch.. Since the auger tube was plugged, where the vac hose attached to the auger tube, poke a wire thru there to make sure it is clear. Then make sure the exhaust path is clear. This means thru the stove and the exhaust pipe. Also make sure the fresh air return is clear if you have one. Make sure door seals good doing the dollar bill test. Then hook wires back up to vac switch and see how it does. If stove still doesn't start, might be time for a new vac switch. If the exhaust and Oak run thru wall, you can plug the ends with a rag at end of season after cleaning to keep moisture and critters out. Keep us informed. kap
 
  • Like
Reactions: CenterTree and heat seeker
What kappel said. And the vacuum switches rarely go bad. Probably sawdust blocking the connection at the auger.
 
The flue is a three inch, one piece (no splices) flexible style that runs about 15 feet straight up inside a clay tile liner. The top has a rain cap over the clay tile with a fitted flat stainless steel cap over the clay tile and around the three inch vent. The top appears sealed tight and the three inch vent is terminated four inches above the flat stainless fitted cap. They are calling for heavy rain this Tuesday in Southwest MO so if it's leaking maybe I can find it. They never installed a OAK when the dealer installed the unit in 2008.

When I cleaned out auger jam I did blow air through the vacuum hose to clean it out as well, I could hear the air going into the auger tube so I am sure that's not blocked.I did not check anything of the exhaust side because I wasn't sure where to check. Also I fail to do the dollar bill test on the door.

The vacuum switch itself has some surface rust from the moister. That's why I was thinking it was bad. Is there any way of testing the switch?

Thank you for the input.
 
Moisture may have corroded the terminals on the vac switch. Make sure they are clean and bright and tight. Look carefully at the connectors themselves - make sure the wire isn't corroded inside the terminals.
 
You should have 6 blue light flashes for a Castile insert, not 4.
The vacuum switch is normally open and closes on vacuum. Are you sure that the dump valve on the bottom of the burn pot is completely closed? That would kill your vacuum. Also if you don't have a fair amount of pellets in the hopper, you'll lose vacuum down the auger. You did prime the auger with several pushes on the reset until it was dropping pellets consistently, right? You said the stove runs fine with the vacuum switch jumpered so I assume you did.
If you've blown out the vacuum tube FROM the vacuum switch end and got air out the nipple, then it must be the vacuum switch if the other stuff checks out.
 
I am sorry I don't know what the dump valve is on the bottom of the burn pot nor do I know how to tell if it's open or closed. Please educated me on that. When I reinstalled the pellets I filled the hopper about 1/3 full so it possible I didn't have enough pellets in it. I could never get the auger to turn by pushing the reset button until I jump around the vacuum switch. I will say it burns great and has a great flame with the vacuum switch jumper installed. But it needs to be fixed right.

This might be a dumb question but how does the hopper seal to pull a vacuum. I know no my Harman 52i it has a rubber gasket around the top of the hopper.

Thanks


 
tjnamtiw said:
You should have 6 blue light flashes for a Castile insert, not 4.
The vacuum switch is normally open and closes on vacuum. Are you sure that the dump valve on the bottom of the burn pot is completely closed? That would kill your vacuum. Also if you don't have a fair amount of pellets in the hopper, you'll lose vacuum down the auger. You did prime the auger with several pushes on the reset until it was dropping pellets consistently, right? You said the stove runs fine with the vacuum switch jumpered so I assume you did.
If you've blown out the vacuum tube FROM the vacuum switch end and got air out the nipple, then it must be the vacuum switch if the other stuff checks out.
Click to expand...
4 blue lights are correct for the Castile. 6 are for the Sante Fe. The dump valve is the trap door on bottom of pot that you slide open to dump ash in ashpan. Having fuel in hopper helps create the vacuum in the firebox by plugging the auger tube with fuel. 1/3 full is more then enough to help creat a vacuum. If the door seal is bad, you can't create a vacuum in the firebox either. You can try pushing on the door a little to see if it helps the stove start. You need to read a manual and find the exhaust path thru the stove to make sure all of that is clean. If all above are good, and you make sure all connnections are clean of rust on the vac swtich connections and wire connections that attach to it, it may be a bad switch. You can do a continuity test on it by sucking lightly on hose to close switch inside of vac. kap
 
Last edited:
kappel15 said:
4 blue lights are correct for the Castile. 6 are for the Sante Fe. The dump valve is the trap door on bottom of pot that you slide open to dump ash in ashpan. Having fuel in hopper helps create the vacuum in the firebox by plugging the auger tube with fuel. 1/3 full is more then enough to help creat a vacuum. If the door seal is bad, you can't create a vacuum in the firebox either. You can try pushing on the door a little to see if it helps the stove start. You need to read a manual and find the exhaust path thru the stove to make sure all of that is clean. If all above are good, and you make sure all connnections are clean of rust on the vac swtich connections and wire connections that attach to it, it may be a bad switch. You can do a continuity test on it by sucking lightly on hose to close switch inside of vac. kap
Click to expand...

4 lights for the Castile FS but 6 for the Insert, Kap. At least that's what my manual says. Maybe they changed it.

We're also assuming that the exhaust fan is free and not clogged with ash that has fallen down from the piping up the chimney. Also, is the vent cap/rain cap on top clear. Those tiny holes up there get clogged up over a season, especially when humid. A restricted exhaust won't generate enough vacuum.

bluelightflashes.jpg
 
I'ld post a pic of mine, but don't know how. LOL Mine is as I stated. Older models I guess. Like me. He has stated that it runs fine if jumped, so am assuming exhaust isn't a total plug
 
kappel15 said:
I'ld post a pic of mine, but don't know how. LOL Mine is as I stated. Older models I guess. Like me. He has stated that it runs fine if jumped, so am assuming exhaust isn't a total plug
Click to expand...
Once again, Quad keeps changing things................ hopefully, for the better. :) My stoves are 2007 models.
You're right about the plugged exhaust. My brain was on cruise control, I guess.

Don't know why so many people chimed in about the plugged auger which isn't the problem. You should never leave pellets in the auger over the summer. At least not down here in humidville.
 
Shouldn't leave em in anywhere period! And ya, they change things faster then I can keep up with. UFFDA My paperwork is 2005
 
  • Like
Reactions: tjnamtiw
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
Harman P35I Pellet Stove
Replies
0
Views
183
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
Bigzig23
B
I
Quadrafire Castile Fans won't stop no pellet drop
Replies
2
Views
520
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
Former Farmer
Former Farmer
I
QuadraFire Castile Auger No Power
Replies
12
Views
538
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
IanS
I
Don2222
Harman P61a - 2 blink vacuum status light error??
Replies
3
Views
569
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
Don2222
Don2222
M
Feed motor not turning auger
Replies
0
Views
1K
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
Mr.Dee
M
Top Bottom
Back