Just checked the pressure on my M55 insert

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Aquion

Aquion

Burning Hunk
Oct 7, 2012
133
Portland, CT
I bought a manometer off Amazon a week or so ago. I needed something allow me to connect it to the 1/8" hole used to check the pressure on my stove. I went to Lowes last night and picked up a few fittings from the plumbing department, and they worked great. I spent about $6 on them. The hose and the fitting on the end of the hose that you see in the picture below came with the manometer. The other 2 fittings were the ones I bought.

I ran the stove on high for an hour (It got up to 84 in my living room), and checked the pressure. It was -.34. I had to close the damper almost all the way to get the pressure down to -.17. The stove has been running great. Hopefully, now it will run even better.

image.jpg
 
i like it...is very fancy...makes our analog ones look antique....and covered with soot.
 
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Had the same problem with my FS. I ended up making a small adapter to attach to my damper that extended it about 1". Now I can adjust the damper for the .15 -.17 spec.
 
The flame on lvl 2 is much higher than it was before. The glass looks cleaner too. I'm not sure how that could be though. I didn't clean the glass. Maybe it's just the extra light from the flame.
 
It must be throwing more heat too. I'm on lvl 2 and my living room is 74. I'd usually be on lvl 3 when the outside temps are in the mid 20s.
 
I had to go check the price. Surprised the UEi Test Instruments EM151 is about the same as the Dwyer analog meter.
 
At this point it seems that I have a lot less ash. I won't know for certain until I do a cleaning on the weekend, but after a day and a half since the last cleaning, there is very little ash in the stove. Also, the glass is staying cleaner. I still get some black in the upper right corner, but the patch is not as big or black as it has been.
 
Aquion said:
...checked the pressure. It was -.34. I had to close the damper almost all the way to get the pressure down to -.17.
Click to expand...

I had to the same exact thing on my GC60. Damper all the way closed and still just barely in the recommended range.

Aquion said:
...The glass looks cleaner too. I'm not sure how that could be though. I didn't clean the glass. Maybe it's just the extra light from the flame.
Click to expand...

Extra flame and heat seem to help the air wash. If I'm running on low for a while, the "eybrow" will extend further towards the center, but as soon as I crank it to 2 or 3 (or higher), glass cleans up considerably.
 
So today was the first cleaning after a full week's burn since I corrected the pressure on my stove. There was less ash in the ash pan. Not a whole lot less but less. There was a lot less ash when I pulled the rod to clean the heat exchange tubes, and there was a lot less ash on the sides of the stove. Also, the glass was a breeze to clean. I usually have to scrub it good to get the black off. This time it just wiped right off. Also, the gunk on the burn pot liner was a lot easier to scrape off.
 
Aquion,

I'm not sure if you are still using this set-up. I purchased the same manometer, but I am having trouble finding fittings that will pass through the #8 screw hole on my M55 Cast. When you pass this into the chamber, does it need to be a tight seal or can you please a brass tube into the stove?

Thanks.
 
Ozymandias said:
Aquion,

I'm not sure if you are still using this set-up. I purchased the same manometer, but I am having trouble finding fittings that will pass through the #8 screw hole on my M55 Cast. When you pass this into the chamber, does it need to be a tight seal or can you please a brass tube into the stove?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Aquion...quick Q.... The brass fitting on the very end, the one that goes through the door frame. Did thi fitting come with the meter? Thanks, Bill
 
I want to check mine too, and have a question. When you tested, you had to remove the apron/skirt first right? I think the only way to get the slide damper is on the side of the stove, towards the back. Is that right?

Thanks
 
LOL. It's called "tinkering."

P.S. LOVE the pic of your dogs!
 
* Chickenman: for me, I want to get stove is in spec so that I can mark my Slider bar and then adjust one way or another. For two years, I have been running too rich.....
**steveg_nh:yes you have to move the side panel on the left.Easiest way is to slide open the top, remove side and then close top. I use a folded up coat hanger to reach the hole in the bar...
***Aquion: Did you see my pic of your brass fitting on the very end of the hose? Where the who did you get that brass fitting?
Thanks all, Bill
 
Steve:

All I had to take off was the cast iron piece on the left side of the stove. The slider is located behind that panel towards the bottom.

-Aq
 
Aquion said:
Steve:

All I had to take off was the cast iron piece on the left side of the stove. The slider is located behind that panel towards the bottom.

-Aq
Click to expand...

Thanks Aquion. You pass this through the threaded hole in the upper right hand corner of the stove, correct? I bought what I thought was the smallest diameter fitting they had at Lowes and I can't get it to fit. The screw hole is for a #8 screw I believe. I could probably find some brass tubing, but I am not sure how tight of a fit it needs to be to make this measurement.
 
Guys, thanks. nice to know I don't have to pull the apron. I could have sworn they did it by reaching towards the middle left side, which would have been past the apron area..maybe the adjustment is also reached through this access hole in the foward side panel? Regardless, very cool. That is the only air adjustment (besides the trim) right? I didn't see a mention of anything else in the manual.

Also Aquion, since you adjusted, do you feel you've seen a difference in burn quality?
 
210 lbs? Holy mackeral! He's bigger than me (just barely). :)
 
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