Thanks for sharing. Do you have any pictures of the baffle? My Grandma II didn't come with a baffle and I've got to get one in there soon. I would love to get longer burn times
Grandma poor efficiency ??
- Thread starter Dave K
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Thanks Coaly. I actually don't have a damper at all. I assume that's a contributing factor to my short burn cycles? I probably should add one. I'll have to search the site for info on how to do that.
Your installation instructions require it. If you burn with a screen in place it is your only control.
Is this stove connected to a flue the same size as stove outlet, 8 inch round?? If larger, that's another place your fuel is going.
If the doors don't seal well as I described in the test above, you could slow it down with the damper...... with no damper you're basically uncontrolled.
The flue size and chimney type will determine your damper setting. Among other things like barometric pressure and temperature when you get it fine tuned.
I moved your post to your own thread since your problems are off topic of a baffle instal.
In the first pipe section, you drill a hole the size of damper rod, take damper apart, get the feel of putting the damper together with two hands, then put it in the pipe and instal the rod. Quite simple. The handle gives you an idea of damper plate direction. Depending on the flue size and how much heat you need to leave up, dampers have different size holes in the center. New ones only have small holes next to the rod. They need to run open farther. Older ones will have a larger hole to meter the amount when closed fully. Another lost art I suppose.........
Is this stove connected to a flue the same size as stove outlet, 8 inch round?? If larger, that's another place your fuel is going.
If the doors don't seal well as I described in the test above, you could slow it down with the damper...... with no damper you're basically uncontrolled.
The flue size and chimney type will determine your damper setting. Among other things like barometric pressure and temperature when you get it fine tuned.
I moved your post to your own thread since your problems are off topic of a baffle instal.
In the first pipe section, you drill a hole the size of damper rod, take damper apart, get the feel of putting the damper together with two hands, then put it in the pipe and instal the rod. Quite simple. The handle gives you an idea of damper plate direction. Depending on the flue size and how much heat you need to leave up, dampers have different size holes in the center. New ones only have small holes next to the rod. They need to run open farther. Older ones will have a larger hole to meter the amount when closed fully. Another lost art I suppose.........
Thanks for the reply and directions on adding the damper. I just saw that this now has its own thread. My flue pipe diameter is 8" and the exterior clay tile lined chimney is 8" as well. I've burned for a full season without the damper and didn't have any problems (and the previous owners must've been burning for 30 years without one). The seal on my door is quite good (according to the dollar bill test). How far up on the first section do I want to put the damper?
I swept the chimney on Wednesday (first time it was swept since last November) and got about 3/4 of a gallon of powdery stuff. No stage 3 creosote at all.
As close to the stove as possible and wherever it's comfortable to reach. A 6 inch pipe section made with damper in it goes right on the stove. This is what was sold with the stove when purchased as a "complete installation kit". The part is still available from Dura-Vent at Home Depot. Far cheaper to add your own in the first section of pipe. An IR thermometer or at least a stove pipe thermometer is a must so you know what you're doing.
Yeah, I gave you your own thread since it's not baffle related. (yet)
I always tend to overdo kindling, so when it gets ripping and you know the flames are out of the stove in the pipe, I close the damper partially to keep the heat in the stove where you want it to ignite the larger stuff. The damper slows velocity in the stack. With air dampers spun open a few turns you can hear it throttle down by closing damper, yet giving it all the air it needs to get going. I couldn't imagine using any Fisher without a damper. I've always had interior insulated chimneys and could run half closed or more. The larger the flue, and colder as in masonry or exterior chimney, the more open you have to run it. Installing a baffle plate isn't the same as a damper. A baffle changes the flow in the firebox, burning off more smoke and directing heat to stove top. It will decrease flue temp slightly, so it changes your damper setting. If you baffle your stove, you may be able to run wide open damper, but it's still required to have one for open door burning with screen in place.
With screen in place and an established fire, close the damper partially until you see smoke at the top collect and want to roll in. Open slightly and that is the setting for slowing the fire without causing smoke to come in. The colder it is outside, the stronger the draft and the more you can close it. With doors open, that is your only throttle and the reason the manual calls for one. With doors open in fireplace mode, it is not considered a radiant heater.
You're doing real good creosote wise, so with a damper you want to check it monthly to have an idea how much you create running it 1/4 , 1/2 or 3/4 shut. I'm sure with that little accumulation for a year you can save a lot of heat from going up before getting excessive amounts. Take note how many more coals or glowing mass you have in the morning. And don't forget to ALWAYS open damper fully when opening stove doors. That is something you're not used to doing and you're going to open the doors to a puff of smoke until you get used to it. Where you run your damper is a variable thing depending on outside temperature and barometric pressure.
Yeah, I gave you your own thread since it's not baffle related. (yet)
I always tend to overdo kindling, so when it gets ripping and you know the flames are out of the stove in the pipe, I close the damper partially to keep the heat in the stove where you want it to ignite the larger stuff. The damper slows velocity in the stack. With air dampers spun open a few turns you can hear it throttle down by closing damper, yet giving it all the air it needs to get going. I couldn't imagine using any Fisher without a damper. I've always had interior insulated chimneys and could run half closed or more. The larger the flue, and colder as in masonry or exterior chimney, the more open you have to run it. Installing a baffle plate isn't the same as a damper. A baffle changes the flow in the firebox, burning off more smoke and directing heat to stove top. It will decrease flue temp slightly, so it changes your damper setting. If you baffle your stove, you may be able to run wide open damper, but it's still required to have one for open door burning with screen in place.
With screen in place and an established fire, close the damper partially until you see smoke at the top collect and want to roll in. Open slightly and that is the setting for slowing the fire without causing smoke to come in. The colder it is outside, the stronger the draft and the more you can close it. With doors open, that is your only throttle and the reason the manual calls for one. With doors open in fireplace mode, it is not considered a radiant heater.
You're doing real good creosote wise, so with a damper you want to check it monthly to have an idea how much you create running it 1/4 , 1/2 or 3/4 shut. I'm sure with that little accumulation for a year you can save a lot of heat from going up before getting excessive amounts. Take note how many more coals or glowing mass you have in the morning. And don't forget to ALWAYS open damper fully when opening stove doors. That is something you're not used to doing and you're going to open the doors to a puff of smoke until you get used to it. Where you run your damper is a variable thing depending on outside temperature and barometric pressure.
- Status
Similar threads
