Preventing Frozen Pipes

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D

dsb134

New Member
Nov 11, 2014
7
Eastern CT
Hi everyone, hoping for some insight here. Last winter I was running my Resolute over a very frigid weekend (below zero). When I woke up Monday morning the fire was out and the house was freezing. I checked the thermostat and the house was 50 with the thermostat set to 60. I could hear the circulator pump running but no water was moving. After some investigating I found out that the draft from one of the basement windows had frozen the baseboard copper line and broke it (luckily the ice plug kept the water in).

It was the draft of air being drawn to the woodstove that I think played a significant role in causing the pipe to freeze. Apparently my basement sill was the path of least resistance. I have since spray insulated around the basement windows in hopes of keeping it more air tight. My question is, has anybody else had this issue? When the stove runs for long periods it keeps the baseboards from kicking on. My wallet loves this, but I never thought it would actually result in damage to my heating system. How does everyone keep the circulating loop moving? Should I open a window near the stove so it draws air from a closer point? Thanks in advance.
 
Run the boiler enough to heat the water once a day. It'll push all the condensation out and keep it from rusting out the heat exchanger.
 
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You don't want to have cold air coming in where water pipes will freeze. Last winter was a tough one and I'm sure many had freezing problems that had never occurred in the past. My house is tight. The only problem I will have with the stove drafting is at start up. If the direct vent water heater is running or maybe a fart fan is on it might back draft otherwise the usual air coming in from the vents for the bathroom fans and the water heater, etc will give me enough fresh air to start the stove with. If you've had a frozen pipe problem seal up air leak.
 
Is there any way to install an outside air kit (OAK) now?
 
No issues with frozen pipes even though I'm using the woodstove for 90-95% of my heating needs. Insulation and sealing air leaks is incredibly important.

When we have an extended period of sub-zero weather I'll run the oil boiler once or twice.
 
Suggestions:
1. A programmable thermostat, and set it to a higher temperature multiple times per day, for a short periods of time to insure that a few times per day the pipes are warmed.
2. Thermguard : http://www.bearmountaindesign.com/ (I think this is from a hearth.com user - "bridgerman")
3. Add antifreeze to the hydronic system
 
I think the best solution is to ensure that your stove has enough draft without opening a window. I've got an older Resolute and a newer air-tight well insulated house and I do get occasional backpuffing when the wind/weather conditions are weird. Otherwise, there is plenty of draft with no window open and that includes times when the clothes dryer is on. My Resolute cannot accommodate an OAK but my new stove does and an OAK is on order. Having a window open will probably mean that half your stove's heat is going to heat the cold air from outside - not good.

Close the window and add more chimney IMHO. I doubt the Resolute has enough power to provide all the heat needed in an average house when the temps are sub zero outside. Last winter was brutal and forced me to have alternate heat on too often for my liking. I'm in the process of upgrading to a 4 cu ft stove right now.
 
I also ran my heat a few times last winter to keep the unfinished basement warmer than freezing. Normal winters this is no problem but last year was anything but normal. I also keep 1/2 filled water bottles strategically placed along the foundation wall in the basement at critical points. If they start to freeze I turn on my heat. They have yet to freeze - even last winter - but it was a simple eye test to add to the therms I have down there. I just don't ever want my savings on heating costs go to plumbing bills for being foolish.
 
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There is a firm that sells a timer for the circulator zone pumps that runs them every so many hours to keep the pipes from freezing.
 
If the pipes are in a basement, get out the caulk and seal up all leaks around the sill plate, windows and openings. Insulate between the rim (and walls). Then a regular oil filled or milk can heater set to 40F should be sufficient. Otherwise don't be afraid to run the boiler/furnace once or twice a day. It is cheaper than dealing with frozen pipes.
 
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peakbagger said:
There is a firm that sells a timer for the circulator zone pumps that runs them every so many hours to keep the pipes from freezing.
Click to expand...
Yup....as mentioned earlier, the ThermGuard will do just that.

It is programmable to set the length of time you want to wait before operating the circulator, and then how long you want the circulator to come on. I live in Montana...been in the low teens here this week and I have mine set to come on every three hours for 3 minutes. Never had a problem since they were installed unless I did something silly like not turning them on.

www.bearmountaindesign.com

Good luck!
John
 
I appreciate everyone's input, there are some great ideas here. I know it was an unusually harsh winter so this may have been a fluke event but I'm certainly not going to let it happen again. I leave home for weeks at a time for work so ThermGuard is my best bet. I was hoping something like this was on the market, thanks again for the help everyone.
 
I too live in CT and last year the furnace didn't turn on much. On those frigid days I did worry enough to take temperature readings in the unfinished basement. In addition to sealing up the rim joints, I wrap my pipes closest to the exterior walls with insulation.
 
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