United States stove company 5502M problems

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well if you lower or raise it on the low setting the HR2-4 will adjust as well....it balances out the heat ranges so there is equal increments.
 
i had a us stove company king 5510. i used it two years in the house, i never could get it to burn properly. that stove was a constant clinker producer, i had it in the barn for a year and it wasnt near enough heat. i ended up selling it for $400, the good news is i bought it in one of those tax incentive years so i didnt loose too much. i have a US stove country hearth cord stove in my barn and it does well but i dont think i would consider that brand ever again for home heating. i must say considering how bad of a design that 5510 was they must have re-designed their current stoves, as least i would hope so. i had wished that the only problem i ever had with that stove was dirty glass, i could have lived with that considering the low price of the stove. that stove, once a day would have a larger clinker covering all of the airholes in the bottom of the burn pot.

i now have a harman P61, yeah it was expensive but im on year 3 and i will probably have the stove for a long, long time. its a manual light stove that i got at a discount due to it being discontinued. its a nice heating unit, heats the entire house no matter how cold it gets, it's reliable, fairly quite and efficient. i have it hooked up to a wall thermostat as well, keeps the house at the desired temp. harmans arent cheap but they are well built and well designed which is why they havent changed the design in such a long time. they did it right in the first place.
 
well if you lower or raise it on the low setting the HR2-4 will adjust as well....it balances out the heat ranges so there is equal increments.

Got a question for you. I posted a new topic earlier about the air wash on my stove. Am I supposed to totally cut the gasket behind the slot on the Metal piece that hold it's on? Or notch out the gasket where the slit is only? Thanks
 
The "air wash" on that unit should be bottom center about 3-4" long the entire gasket width
 
if the 5502M is anything like the 5510 was, it didnt seem like the thing had any factory testing done on the design, non what so ever. it had a terrible ash pan design that leaked air into the combustion chamber, a burn-pot design that wouldnt completely burn the pellets and expel the ash properly. also had a poor latching door design. the ONLY good thing about that stove was the hopper capacity. it would also eat that capacity up pretty quickly. it was loud, in-efficient, difficult to get any usable burn time without having clinkers. it was a terrible design and im glad i got rid of it. my advice to anyone with one of these stoves that is having problems with it, is to sell it and buy a better stove even if its used. look for a used harman on craigslist or even a used englander. there is an englander locally here for $300. pretty much anything is better then a junk USSC pellet stove. their wood stoves are fairly nice but the pellets stoves, i dont care for. i actually woke up one morning to that ussc 5510 having so much clinker in the burnpot that pellets were dumping over the burnpot and burning in the bottom of the stove where clearly they arent supposed to be burning.

bought a harman and wouldnt look at much else. never a clinker, ever.
 
Yes 5502 is nothing like what you describe.
 
Is cutting out 3-4" of the window gasket specific to a 5502 or should I also do it to my 6039?
 
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