steel nozzle plate

I used 3/16" steel last year and it was too thin. The temps vary so much that the 3/16" warped big time not fully protecting the top lip of the nozzle. This year I'm using refractory plates cut from fireplace hearth refractory plate. I looked at fire brick but seemed like it would be difficult to fit/cut. This was easy using a circular saw and masonry blade. One blade did all the cutting. Nozzle protector made from 4 parts. Enough leftover fireplace hearth material for next year. It's about 5/8" thick. Really easier than the steel approach. We'll see how it survives this winter, but if it wears out I'll cut a replace piece. Made a bunch of dust, but about like cutting plywood.

A guy I work with cut me a piece of 304 stainless 3/16" 3/4" slot. been in stove a month or so. I haven't pulled it out to see what it looks like but the amount of ash I get in the bottom chamber is ALOT less and a lot smaller then what was falling through. I'll change my nozzle after the heating season but will probably maintain a plate over it just to lengthen the life of the nozzle. Lifting a plate in and out will be much easier than removing that nozzle.

Dave, No didn't think of the holes. Another poster here did. Did you search for nozzle guard, protector? Maybe in that post I called mine a "nozzle prophylactic". That word surely doesn't show up much on this site. I'm not sure stainless steel gains anything but probably doesn't hurt. You absolutely will save wood as b33 sites above and the nozzle will last longer. Find that thread... It has lots of good ideas... All better than doing nothing.

Oh.. Yes I do think using holes to keep some material across the opening will reduce the likelihood of warpage. I was planning on steel again but at least 1/4". Find that post from about last Feb.

Nozzle overlay

Looks like you cut the holes with a torch? How did you get such nice equal size?

I did the fire brick overlay. Got about one season out of it, starting to crumble now. Was easy to cut out a notch with a masonary blade in circular saw. I think when I replace soon I might cut some 3/4 thick strips and use those to gap the other bricks that are full size. Thought there being that the brick with the slot cut into it cracked because of the slot...

If you're talking coal retention - I use an ordinary fireplace grate with the legs cut off it. I get a season and a bit out of one.

i have been using a stainless plate for two years now. The first one was 3/8" thick and had a 3/4" x 8" slot. I would not reccomend this type. The slot widens out over time due to the heat. I made a second with 3/4" holes. This does not work well because it plugs up to easily. My third style has 3/4" x 4" slots. This works perfectly. I have a web 3/4" between the slots to hold the center together. I have an eko40. I made an identical one for my father for his eko 25. We both could not be happier. I also have removed the lower chamber firebricks and replaced with a stainless fabricated unit. I have been using this for two years as well. Very happy with the ease of cleaning and durability so far.

What did you cut your slots out with?

maple1 said:

What did you cut your slots out with?

Click to expand...

I used a waterjet to cut the plates.