Observations from my second year as a EPA stove burner

Stove is a Drolet 1800 freestanding. Last year I had mixed results do to constant fiddling with the stove and wood that although I thought was dry (I dont have a moisture meter), in hindsite I can see that much of it wasnt when I compare to my burning this year. This year I am using ash that was stacked at the beginning of last year, has sat out in the sun for 2 complete summers and has that grey color with very big cracks in the splits and also is very light compared to the stuff I split this year. I have also learned to let my stove top get up to 450 degrees before I start to turn down the air to get the secondaries to fire off consistently. I am packing the stove as completely full as possible each time I load it instead of just a few splits ( i was worried about over firing the stove). I have been getting consistent great fires this year! The wood makes the biggest difference in my opinion. My fire last night once it got going was pure secondaries, stove top at 650 for almost 2 hrs, flames for close to 2 hrs and usable heat(over 300 degrees) for 5+ hours with the fan on low. I have been getting this type of burn consistently this year when I use that ASH. When I throw in some Maple that a friend gave me that Isnt quite as dry I don't get the same easy burn and I end up fiddling with the stove again and dont get near the long high temps as the super dry ash. Thanks to everyone on this forum that has posted there burn stories, struggles and successes as I have followed them all and learned from each of them. Dry wood is essential to those wonderful long high heat burns in my stove and if your having trouble seeing those in your stove I bet your wood isnt quite dry yet like mine wasn't. Just wanted to share this to help anyone who might be having trouble with their first year of burning.

This is the first time (year) Iv'e been able to fully close the primary air and have the stove continue to keep the secondaries burning strong. Last year I always had to leave it from 1/16 to 1/25 way open or I would lose the secondaries. Just wondering if you are able to close the air control all the way. I have close to 25' of chimney. I also notice that the stove seems to work better when the winds outside are calm. Seems like on the super windy days more heat is sucked out of the stove through the pipe. I don't get 650 degree temps on the stove for long periods when its really windy here, and unfortunately it is usually pretty windy where I live.

Definately has taken some time to get this almost mastered (almost!). I am using a magnetic thermometer on the top of the stove located towards the front middle of the stove. With the super dry wood I'm using this year, unlike last year, I can usually start shutting down the air control at around 450. Usually by the time the temp is at 500+ I can shut the air closed all the way and I'll turn the fan on low. I get best results when I can pack it full on a small bed of coals. Half loads are still doable but keeping secondaries going is easier when the firebox is packed full. Last night I loaded up the stove and went online looking for a cell plan and forgot about the stove, when I remembered about the stove the magnetic thermometer was buried at 800 degrees! Crap!! Turned fan on all the way crossed fingers and everything seems to be OK. Hope I didnt damage the stove.